jacobs

You might check your float. I can't remember if the Subaru float is brass or plastic but if they are plastic, they can become saturated with fuel thus raising the fuel level in the bowl. I've never seen a brass float leak but it is possible.

My previous experience with other brands of carburetors on American manufactured vehicles is when you have gasoline leaking out of the throttle shafts you have way too much fuel. This can be caused by over choking, too high fuel level in the carburetor or sticking/leaking needle valve. The bottom line is your engine is flooded!

I've been using acetone for the last 12 months. I've been using it in three different vehicles and have experienced NO problems with it harming the fuel system or engine whatsoever. The percentage of acetone actually used is so small it just isn't a problem with rubber parts. I've always kept records of all gasoline purchases and gasoline milage so I'm sure of my claims. In my 86 Subaru wagon I've averaged a 17% increase. In my other two (large) vehicles, I've experienced up to 28% increase in overall fuel milage. IT WORKS - GUARANTEED!

I improved my gas mileage by about 17% with 3oz acetone/10 gallons gasoline. Couldn't tell any difference in performance though.

The last I heard, there are only three battery manufactures in the US. They place whatever name the retailer wants on it so the bottom line is all factors equal, all batteries will be about equal. That said, deep cycle batteries are a lead grid similar to batteries made 40+ years ago. They withstand deep cycling a lot better than standard automotive batteries made today but don't last as long before they die and have a high self discharge rate. If you let one sit for 6 months with out a charge, you'll probably find it completely discharged. Modern automotive batteries are a lead/calcium grid. They have a very low self discharge rate and last quite a long time BUT don't like to be deep discharged. Deep discharge them several times and they will be permanently damaged. All batteries HATE heat. Heat is a big enemy of batteries. The cooler you can keep them, the longer they will last. They like 30 to 60 degrees. Batteries with longer warranties are not better quality batteries. They usually have more plates with more cold cranking amps but that's the only difference. You are just paying extra for insurance or more commonly called warranty.

It's possible a previous owner hit a curb or similar object too hard and bent the suspension. In that case you have two options - start replacing parts until the problem is resolved or get an alignment using a good shop that can bend parts to bring everything back to factory specs. If you try the latter, look in your yellow pages under automotive alignment and call only those listed that specialize in alignments. They shouldn't charge you more that $50-75 unless they have to replace some parts.

If you open up your old alternator I'm sure you'll find your brushes are worn out. I've purchased replacements at an auto electric garage in Denver for about $2.00/set.

Try removing your exhaust pipe to see if you have more power. My catalatic converter disassembled itself and jammed tight into the exhaust pipe behind the cat. I had to cut the exhaust pipe in half in order to remove the plug and then weld it back together again - what a difference.

These solar chargers are amorphous cells which are very short lived when left outside. The military uses silicone cells. The silicone cells cost more but they will outlast many cars (usually 30+ years) so in the long run they really are less expensive. Like most things, when you buy quality items you usually end up saving money.

If you decide to use that new piston (I wouldn't), make sure it weighs exactly (to the gram) the same as your old one or else you could have a severe vibration. It appears to be a lot heavier than the old one. Also make sure the distance from the wrist pin to the top of the piston is the same.

To check for exhaust leaks, start the engine and take a rag in the palm of your hand, plug the tailpipe to stop the exhaust from coming out. You will be able to hear any leaks.

It's true the distributor has a limited adjustment BUT when the distributor is inserted into the engine the rotor can pointed anywhere you want it to. Like I said in my previous post, just make sure the rotor is pointed at #1 wire when the engine is at 8 degrees BTDC and the rest of the wires are in the correct firing order. Make it easy on yourself.

It dosen't matter where the wires are inserted into the cap. What does matter is that the rotor is pointed at #1 when the engine is at 8 degrees BTDC AND the rest of the wires are in the correct firing order.

On a 86 you have to get under the front end and pop off the plastic cover on the rear of the latch assy. It's close to the air conditioning condenser (if you have AC) but usually possible to remove. You will then see the end of the cable and the lever it is attched to. Then using a long screwdriver or similar object, push the lever toward the drivers side of the car. The hood should then open.

I'll try posting this photo again!

.

My 86 carbureted wagon has been gradually losing power for about the last 6 years. I checked the compression, timing, carburetor, and everything I could think of but everything was ok. Yesterday I was replacing the tie rod boots but the exhaust pipes were in the way so I dropped it to get more working room. Out of curiosity, I attempted to shove a rubber hose up the outlet end of the pipe and at about 12" ran into a solid blockage so I cut the pipe in half. I found the remains of the catalatic converter jammed into the pipe. After removing the junk and welding the pipe back together, I took it out for a test drive. That car hasn't performed that good in many years if ever. I'm anxious to see how much my gas milage has improved.

Thanks, I've wondered if that wasn't where they were getting in at. I've had to revove the heater fan several times to clean out nests they built in the squirrel cage.

Mice I've owned several 1986 and 1987 wagons since 1988 and I've had problems with mice getting in and building nests in all of them. Are there any ideas as to where are they getting in? They sure make a mess.

I was just reading about the normal break in procedure for the old "Mobil economy run" was to remove the air cleaner, drive on dirt roads with a chase vehicle in front of the car being broken in. They didn't say how many miles it took though.

Does anyone know what the factory centrifugal advance specs are (degrees and rpm's) on a carbureted 86 or 87 ea82? I'm not finding anything in any of my manuals. Has anyone tried opening up the slots in the distributor to gain more advance at high RPM's for more performance and has it helped?

The best thing to do to prevent radiator and heater core problems is to drain and refill your coolant at least every two years. When adding water to your antifreeze, use distilled water as it doesn't have any minerals in it to cause you grief later on with plugging things up. Also, IF you replace your radiator, a turbo radiator has a thicker core in it and doesn't cost much more AND it's a bolt in w/o mods.

Hi, I'm new to this forum and if this has already been covered, please forgive me but I didn't find anything. I want to rejet my carburetor on my 1986 EA82. Does anyone know where I can purchase smaller jets? Reading the spark plugs, the carb is running too rich - It's not the choke. Years ago (35+), I used to solder up jets and redrill them but I've since learned that is not the best thing to do. With the price of gasoline I'd like it to run as efficiently as possible. Thanks