jacobs

I heard years ago that if you change your oil and install synthetic oil just prior to an emissions test, it'll help a lot. I can't vouch for this as I've never lived in an area that required emissions tests.

Don't know if it helps any but I've always used anti-sieze on spark plugs in aluminum heads.

They're called welding cable. You can get any size wire you want in any length. Just install (solder) on the ends you need.

Manual steering is 4 3/4 turns lock to lock, p/s is 3 3/4 turns lock to lock.

I have two 86 gl wagons - one with p/s and one without. I can't tell any difference between the two except when stopped.

Couldn't you build your intake manifold so only one side of the carburetor is exposed to vacuum, remove the metering rods, plug the jets, and plug the accelerator pump jet on the decomissioned side? It seems to me it would work great!

Instead of using just the primaries, wouldn't it be better to use one side of the carb and block off the other side? That would still utilize the air valve secondary and it wouldn't be difficult to do.

I'd never even considered using a Quadrajet on a Subaru before. Now you've got me to thinking......... In my opinion, Quadrajets are probably the finest engineered carburetor ever made AND they are so easy to work on and fine tune. It's amazing the range in size of engines they work well on. There are so many jets, metering rods, metering rod hangers, and metering rod springs to choose from it can be mind boggling. There were probably more Q-jets manufactured than any other carburetor so they are easy to come by.

Even though Pontiac sucessfully used a Quadrajet on their 6 cylinder engine back in the 1960's, isn't it a little large for a 1800cc engine? What was your throttle response like? What was your fuel mileage like compared to stock? Do you have any photos?

Thanks everyone for your input. I've decided to leave my covers off for now due to the fact I'm running Chinese timing belts. I've had premature failures with Chinese bearings but I thought it was just coincidence but after talking to a bearing supplier who admitted that the Chinese bearings weren't nearly as durable, I think I'd better keep a close watch on my timing belts. In the future, when it comes to parts that can leave you stranded, I'll stay with American or Japanese if given the choice.

After reading about how many of you are running without their timing belt covers, I decided to do the same. However after I saw a serpentine belt that had been damaged by gravel on my son's car, I'm questioning the wisdom of leaving my timing belts exposed as I drive on non paved roads a lot. Is there anyone out there that has left their covers off and drive on gravel roads a lot and have checked their belts for damage?

Are the Fel-Pro permatorque gaskets thicker than the stock gaskets? If they are, doesn't this lower the compression ratio?

For more information on hydracarbon refrigerants as to their safety, use in Europe and the politics surrounding it's use in the U.S. , see http://yarchive.net/ac/politics.html We've been duped here in the US.

In my previous post, I was only attempting to offer POSSIBLE alternatives. I personally have not tried hydrocarbon refrigerants. I've just read about them on other web sites. I encourage anyone thinking about them to do their own research. My question I still have is is hydrocarbon refrigerants any more dangerous than a propane fuel system conversion or a compressed natural gas conversion? I personally have performed many compressed natural gas (CNG) conversions on American manufactured pickups. These systems fully fueled contain 3000 psi. As I recall, R134A is flammable, and is labeled as such. I realize most air conditioner leaks occur in the engine compartment but if a R134A leak occurs in the evaporator, you will get a very heavy dose of it in the cockpit. I personally will live without air conditioning before I EVER use R134A.

I believe Freeze 12 is a hydrocarbon refrigerant and if it is, it is compatible with R12 and the original oil. If you have a set of R12 charging hoses and gauges, you can just adapt a small propane cylinder and charge your system. In my opinion it will be much safer than using R134A and cheaper than Freeze 12. BTW propane is compatible with R12 from what I've read.

Propane was widely used as a refrigerant back in the 1930's until there was a school fire caused by a leaking air conditioner and resulted in some deaths. That's when some states outlawed it's use. I've never used it but from what I've read, it's a very good refrigerant. A couple of years ago, rumors were the Japanese was planing to use it on all their new cars. R134A is very toxic. The US Air force did some human tests a few years back and found the gas almost killed their subjects.

You can purchase conversion kits at any auto parts store. Something you might want to check into is using a hydrocarbon refrigerant instead. There are commercially available hydrocarbon refrigerants available from refrigeration suppliers or you can use a propane/butane mix. From what I've read on the internet, this is widely used in Europe and Australia and performs better than the old R12 and a lot better than R134A. Some states have laws against using propane as a refrigerant however I don't think it would be any more hazardous than a fuel system propane conversion or worse a natural gas conversion where the gas is stored at 3000psi in the fuel tank.

You can use mothballs - they do keep out the mice.

I purchased two new boots for my 86 manual steering from Subaru about three months ago. You might want to try a different Subaru dealer.

I think I may have opened mouth, inserted foot or maybe opened computer........ oh well, anyway, I was talking about the o-ring between the camshaft support and the case. Next time I'll think twice before responding. Sorry for the confusion.

Yes I'm talking about the area between the cam carrier and the head. I just replaced my original non leaking o-rings with dimensionally identical o-rings when I replaced my timing belts. Maybe I'm missing something here but if there isn't any movement between the parts, and there isn't here, then any additional metal would actually be a detriment to sealing in my way of thinking.

Rocket Seals doesn't sell "cheep" o-rings. Their primary market is the hydraulic market rebuilding hydraulic cylinders. This is a MUCH more severe application than in an automotive engine. I'm sure their o-rings are at least as good as oem Subaru or most likely a lot better.

I just purchased six camshaft o-rings for my EA-82 from Rocket seals (an o-ring supplier in Denver) and paid about 60 cents each for them. If you get down to Denver in the near future, you might want to look them up or they may sent them to you. I just took one of my old ones in and they matched it up. BTW because they are metric, most auto supply houses don't have them.