jacobs

Thanks for all the help! It should be a very easy repair except for the headliner. I’m not looking forward to removing it but since it’s necessary, I will. The last time I had a headliner loose at the rear, I wasn’t able to get it back in place like the factory installation.

I agree. When there's a lot of dirt, you need a much larger fuel filter or else you'll be changing filters very often. If you are going to use a small filter, just use the factory Subaru filter and change it frequently. Also, don't forget there's a filter on the pickup inside your fuel tank. It might be a good idea to clean it ocassionally.

I have three EA82 wagons, 1 with a factory roof rack and 2 w/o roof racks. Both cars w/o roof racks sound like a tin can when driving on rough roads. The roofs bounce up and down and is enough to drive a sane person crazy. Surly this isn’t a common problem is it? Are there braces above the headliner to stiffen the roof that’s possibly bent? I don’t want to pull the headliner down just to find everything is ok. Do I need to install factory roof racks to stiffen the roofs?

I don't mean to hyjack the thread but does anyone know what the smallest 15" tire that's available?

Those of us that do offroading in the snow, we must remember we need extra wheel well clearance for tire chains.

I use silicone spray. It's slicker than soap and it's good for rubber.

There's a Fram fuel filter on eBay like the one I've used on my full sized pickup for the last 20 years. I've run a lot of real dirty gas through it and it's never plugged. Pleated paper elements for it are easy to purchase at NAPA. See http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fram-HPG-1-fuel-filter-with-bracket-New-SBC-BBC_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42604QQhashZitem330056553868QQihZ014QQitemZ330056553868QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I just did a search on eBay and there's 6 of these fuel filters listed for $5.00 to $43.00. Here's the $5.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRAM-FUEL-FILTER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33660QQhashZitem180059949732QQihZ008QQitemZ180059949732QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I tried using a Franz filter about 30 years ago to filter gasoline and found you must drill out the restriction in the filter housing. Also on larger engines they are too restrictive so an additional fuel pump is needed in front of the filter to push the fuel through. They do a great job though if you need really good filtration.

If you install a vacuum tank, be sure to install a check valve in your line to the engine or you'll loose your vacuum when accelerating or going up hills.

It's easy to disprove that Mythbusters story! All you have to do is take a gutless nonturbo Subaru up a long hill with the AC on and turn around and go up the same hill with the AC off and the windows down. You'll find the AC takes a lot more power.

THAT'S CHEATING!!!

The hardest part of tire changing is breaking the bead. That's why I use a hydraulic jack. After that it's very easy - as long as you lube the bead. After the beads are broken (both inner and outer) I spray a small amount of silicone lube on the beads and the tire will slide off the rim with a just a little help using large screwdrivers or spoons.

THANK YOU! This is exactly what my experience has confirmed. I've been driving and modifying engines since before EGR's or any emissions control were invented.

The last 3 axles I purchased was from Rocky Mountain Drive Line Specialists in Denver, CO. So far they have been great axles. They charge $50 exchange and NO sales tax.

Welding cable is the best you can use. That's what's been in my old Jeep for the last 40 years and NEVER a problem.

I think the last time I had a float stick must have been about 35 years ago. I just lightly rapped the carb with a hammer and never had another problem with it sticking. That's an easy fix. I've even run oil bath air cleaners which are notorious for poor filtration and never had any problems with passages getting clogged. We have 4 horses and I wouldn't call that reliability. Don't ask me what I think of them. They were not my idea.

GD, You’ll probably call me paranoid but I do have the old points and condenser in my EA82. When I converted to points, there was no loss of power or economy. The only reason manufactures went to electronic ignition was due to the Federal Government requiring auto manufacturers to extend tune up intervals for emissions purposes. Spare parts I always carry - coil, cap, rotor, points, and condenser. I’ve never carried anything for the carburetor. I’ve been driving for 44 years and NEVER had a carburetor have any more than a minor problem. The worst carb problem I’ve ever experienced was an accelerator pump failure and that doesn’t leave a person stranded. btw I don't have a feedback carb.

I've been running w/o the egr for ???? I'm sure it's been many years. The vacuum lines are plugged solid with carbon deposits and I still get up to 42 mpg out on the plains as long as I drive with a light foot. I don't think an operating egr would help my gas milage.

GD, I'll admit that I'm fearful of the electronics in FI. Since most of the miles I put on my Subaru is on the highway up to 400 miles from home, if anything goes wrong, I don't want to be stranded. I broke down only once and that was due to my own stupidity of not keeping tabs on my timing belts. I want simplicity - it's cheep insurance.

I've owned my carbed 1986 ea82 since 1989 and put over 250,000 miles on it since then. The only problem I've ever had with my stock carb is I had to replace the accelerator pump 5 years ago. To me, that's fantastic dependability and the repair was simple and cheap. All 5 of my vehicles are carbureted and there's a reason for it - dependability and easy to repair. I like electronics but not on cars.

I use a hydraulic bottle jack between the tire and my work bench to break the bead, then a couple of large screwdrivers to remove the tire from the rim. It's quick and easy.

I can't speak for Subarus but the older Chevy heater cores I've cut open had smaller passages than a radiator.

A heater core is like your radiator. They both get deposits built up inside restricting the coolant flow. If you or anyone else has replaced your radiator due to mineral deposits, your heater core will probably also need to be replaced. Backflushing may help, but just like a radiator, those deposits are very difficult to remove. Minerals in tap water is the biggest enemy of cooling systems. Always use distilled water.

My carbureted EA82 will throw out a lot of heat IF I use a 195E thermostat. I’ve switched to 160E or 180E thermostats for the last 15 years since I discovered they eliminate the hot soak carburetor problems they have in the summer.

With my EA82 86 carbd wagon I can get up to 42 mpg on the flats w/o any wind and at 55-60 mph. At 70 mph, it drops down to about 28 to 33 mpg, and in the Colorado Rockies it drops down to 23-25 mpg. I don't know what it would do in city driving since I haven't lived in the city for the last 26 years. I've always used the lowest octaine fuel (it varies between locations) available and my timing is set at 12E BTDC. It just barely pings and runs much better than at the factory setting.