jono

just found notes from ever helpful boys at subarupartsdepot.com one dizzy loom 22183AA100 was for a model run from may 84 through to sept 85 of the RX in America, and another 22183AA090 for july85 to sept 86! I wonder if there were difference in the dizzies to match the looms and if you have a mismatch ?

I had a coil fail, but not entirely - got me home. The next was a Bosch MEC 717 ?, it failed same miserable way a year later, by which time I had a genuine new one waiting. First lasted 23 years or so anyone look at the dizzy in the link ? I did and copped an eyeful of Ketterings ignition points ! As for someone above asking if ignition module is where you stick the ignition key ....no, that is ignition barrel, the ignition module is inside the dizzy just under the rotor on EA82 carbs and Series 1 efi inc turbo

Nippon Denso distributor confirmed yes or no ? As said above it probably should be Hitachi ..but, the KCM was it metal gold zinc (Hitachi) box or Nippon Denso black plastic ?

the correct place to measure for the fronts for factory specs is the centre line of the bolt of the inner bush of the lower control arm

search on ausubaru.com for users Tweety and Brumberty - set any date in advanced search. Tweety got very thirsty so SC went up for sale, Brumberty went EJ20G and his SC went from Tasmania to Subarino? in West Australia for EJ SC conversion

Getting cnfusing in here .... I have run my sep 85 made EA82T with that large black tubular multi pin connector below coil disconnected - sure it was this one - is there two ? and all it was running without any knock control. I'll try it again if you come back in ...... I have studied engine electrical diagrams in factory manuals and shows just one wire connected to positive side of coil pos+ power from fuse #11 ! And, coincidentally no earth connection to body of coil ! Electrical is weird !! The diagrams wiring differs on digram between LHD RHD paths and connectors, also does not include the knock sensor unit or wiring at all - that is found in another section of the manual ! No radio supressor that the manual in the radio section refers to as a condensor ,not to be confused with an ignition points condensor found on points dizzies of non eletrical module dizzies

why is this ? I once got an old English Ford 4 cylinder to start by grounding the coil bracket and ever since never found another car that needed bracket ground. Is there a wire diagram to support this statement of yours ?

hey thanks, that helps the confusion. There is something in the part numbers with last digit being a revioon or something, second last being a squence of models ? That extra wire on mine looks heavier duty than a sensor...I'll need to check and confirm some numbers.....

I have one of thse and the factory diagnosis manuals etc Early turbo has a vacuum advance/boost retard cannister on it, and a four pin module inside it. The loose connector near coil is likely one of the many test connectors - white female plastic, black/white trace ? wire . Test connectors generally left alone. Think it shows 5V with ign on, engine not started yet, when running should be 1.7V until it sees a knock from sensor and can ramp up to 4.5V - etarding timing via KCM. You can start it with th black , is it 9 pin connector for KCM disconnected, can even drive, just won't have knock protection. Have you or previous owner done something to this, put it back together and it won't go ? Or was it a goer when you bought it and just happened ? Ignition switch ? Ignition fuse ? What if you wore a ski mask and were gonna hotwire it? You'd grab a hot as in 12V pos + wire from the battery and connct it to the pos+ side of the coil and push start car if it is a manual.... is it a manual stick shift or auto ? Has it got some anti theft system in it - love their instal methods sometimes !! What part numbers on your distributors - all the same ? Even a basic carb one would do for starting purposes... Compression test result - even though you chasing spark.....i get 130 all around and 150 on my other EA82T Just looked at my coil wires Coli Pos has: 1. black/white trace pairs, not joined electrically though, up with extra insulation sleeve, with the yellow wire that goes to coil neg, destiniation unknown 2. black/white trace goes to car side of loom near round black 9 pin connector below washer bottle 3. black wire that goes to the radio interference thing that earths on body nearby Coil Neg has: two yellow/white trace wires & one black/white trace wire that only an inch from the coil is in insulating sleeve with light grey insulator of a shielded wire

make sure you have no confusion between EGR, PCV systems as it is starting to sound like it, and some EGR are not as such but air injection systems. EGR is recirc some exhaust back into inlet manifold, if no actual egr unit on manifold option is air pump which allows filterd air from std air box to be drawn into exhaust. PCV is from and to rocker covers and air is sucked into inlet manifold through that PCV valve below carby.....

OK 22070 AA 002 ...from memory is the part number on my AUDM EA82T powered GLTA - 3 speed auto RX 4WD sedan if you like. This number is the only choice listed in the 85-92 e parts catalogue yet, I have another sourced by the ever slaving T'subaru in a WA or OR wrecking yard it is 22070 AA 012 ? Or the one out of myAUDM.86 made Vortex FWD 5MT EA82T might be 22070 AA 020 The above boxes are found be undoing two turbo model specific extra screws inside passenger front door frame, beside glove box on sedans, or below radio on trans hump of Vortex. They are gold zinc metal boxes. All by Hitachi . Then I have another mysterious black plastic box sold to me ;unbeknowns that it was black plastic and by Nippon Denso. Plug looks same as others . Suspect that as NZ got some Denso dizzies, it may have been from a NZD market. The US sourced one has an extra wire to complete the plug pins, over the others. Does anyone really know these KCMs? The metal brackets have a number stamped into them, that corresponds an extra number on the labels. I thought the only difference between LHD and RHD might have been the brackets as RHD has it on LHS, and LHS has it mounted RHS - then I found the extra wire.Still need to consult factory manuals

Another thought is someone less fortunate that may be helping self to your fuel tank ?

I have only just done same to my EA82M - installed Mizpahs reco lifters. If you read comments at same time I did, they were of good quality, thought to get more attention in their process compared to new lifters. Mine sat sideways for four years in the engine until fitted last few weeks, so if I had bled/primed them on instal, likely have drained out in that time. I started her up and got the slight TOD until warmed up - running Valvoline fully mineral 15W40 on a day of 38C - this may have been an advantage! I have previously fitted new HVLA's and needed good 25 to 30km driving at slower suburban speeds, stop start stuff to load the HVLA's up a little. I am happy with the quiet result compared to EA81 with tappets not reset at least 130,000km THUMBS UP for MIZPAH !

Only five weeks late with the specs..if anyone needs them for the 2WD XT rear is 203mm ( +10 , -20mm ) The 4WD is 250mm Is measured from the underside of the tubular cross member pipe that the swing arms come off, measured at the outer ends to flat ground

EA82 have one clutch fork part number for the lot from memory

Is there a way to bench test a dizzy module of the two wires to coil variety found in our EA81 and EA82 ? The factory manuals do not cover the topic. I'm thinking a spare coil, complete dizzy with cap, leads and spark plugs on a common grounded point, hook up a battery to the whole thing and spin dizzy cog by hand is the long way to do it .... Can we hook the two wires up, select something on a DMM and get a result ?

a dud lead can make a tacho jumpy, fusible links inside the plastic box - follow pos lead from battery to this box of three jumper like fuses - any corrosion? I have heard for these contacts to break,connect,break etc may cause higher voltage sightings - had it happen to me, burnt out inside my gLta dash, all circuits in use at the time, blew bulbs so bad the element fused to inside glass !i ECU survived though a crappy unhappy battery may do weird things, so another battery may help ...

One thing I found from experience - if water finds its way into the oil pan/sump and engine has not been run, water sinks to the bottom , so is first to come out when undo sump drain pan plug. You've got bad gaskets for some time at the carby base ? Sounds probable cause or the block to thermostat hose/fitting When I have used OEM from Subaru head gaskets twice now - two gaskets on two EA82's - I have found the gaskets did not want retension at all when I tried. My machine shop guy says never back them off to retension..

dip the sump lately to see if its in there too ?

the power steering models came with holes drilled and tapped at the front face of the cylinder head to take the support brackets, non PS models sometimes only got blank solid undrilled, untapped cast boss. So, to convert to PS, holes may need to be drilled and tapped to suit. Have a look at the front of your head on LHD passenger side, see if there are unemployed threaded holes......

Donee got the threaded holes on dizzy side head at front face to take the stuff ?

should be 23 spline shafts on your 4 speed box, so if you get a 5 speed DR box from an L Series/EA82 carbed donor, should get same 23 splines in it, but may need to check to ensure no funny business gone on since factory. MPFI in turbo and non turbo at least got 25 spline.

here is one pic - tiny

Problem should be solved when I stop trying to reinvent a new firing order unknowingly

Normally, yes, but the XT/Vortex EA82T FWD is listed as using the 225mm clutch kit that is used in the 4WD EA82 ! It all looks correct, flywheel, pressure plate numbers all match up to other 4WD plates etc. I did find a difference between clutch combo that came off old EA81 that was in and working, and an eg of what was screwed on the back of the crank. Approx 4mm, used my starter motor spacer from the 5 speed behind EA81, slipped its 4mm under the EA82 flywheel sitting on concrete floor next to old clutch pack and things levelled out - light bulb moment then suggested 4mm packing behind the pivot should get me back to where I was - and got the 118mm down to 100mm, so 4mm better than a running L Series EA82 sedan GLTA. . I used an old head bolt washer - 3.9mm thick Got some pedal now, but not the best, thinking it is a bit rude to fit EA82 donk, clutch, clutch cable, gearbox and rear diff and inner console, and let an EA81 clutch pedal do the same job. EA82 have a longer throw on their pedal so, next stop,squirm under dash