jono

Looks like turbo pistons from memory....though I think I have plain mpfi and NA blocks with the threaded hole in place for the knock sensor. All mpfi blocks have a baffled inspection plate behind the flywheel / flexplate for an extra crankcase vent that exits near the knock sensor thread

A new cable does wonders Did you check or replace the carrier for the the release bearing ? I got better results with a new one as the fork material is harder than the cast iron and the wear points get deep divots or gouges in the cast iron. A new one is actually machined flat - no guide divots at all Sometimes others have adjusted the ball pivot the fork sits on off the inside bellhousing. I don't think it is possible to fit friction plate wrong way around in Subies ? the Flywheel bolt heads hit the plate ?? Oh, it may be possible someone swapped in a different flywheel and clutch before so the listing even though is correct for the car, maybe not for the flywheel in use ? EA81 and EA82 flywheels have a 2mm difference in the step , and also the cover plate. I have mistakenly mixed up and used a cover plate with the 23mm step where I needed the 21mm step - could just change gears - was awful and silly mistake - giving me reason to time the engine out and on the floor - 45 minutes - in order to fix the problem by swapping in correct cover plate. Another question is if you got the fly machined, was it machined to correct step for the clutch fitted ? The easiset thing to check for is possibly chance the pedal box is flexing - the cable side flexes when things go wrong like the pedal cable bracket spot welds breaking through the thin wall of the pedal box. Adjutment of stay rod changed at all ? This normally affects disengage when driving..can you even drive it yet or just not even disengage to get gear or neutral to start driving ?

I note no mention of the tick of death hydraulic lifters ? Everything depends on your budget - especially at reception What is your budget ? I like EA82 . Overheating is your first issue to deal with - could be as simple as removing/replacing the thermostat - two 12mm head bolts, and a new 75c gasket. Oil leaks can be addressed with some quality oil seal rejuvenator additives - sometimes Those inlet manifold gaskets have to be renewed at some stage - you've done that- good start. Number one turn off after an empty wallet is a mouthful of candy apple - to a dentist ! A greasy engine bay is same to mechanics - YUCK A $5 oil pressure switch can solve some heavy oil leaks up front near the oil filter.i I resolved oily residue in the wrong places with a catch can in between rocker breather hose out let and carby/air filter with a vent I think Lots of little fixe$ can be done to revive LuLu

reverse switch is the one more to the middle of the side, rather than at the end, red with white trace ? both wires ? It is switching 12V pos so 12V comes in and leaves when switched in right postion. I have found for some reason an extra washer has fixed the problem, in the past with my DR 5 sp EA82 manual box

5 Nm of torque I think is non factory manual recommendation

From previous experience with these symptoms in both my utes - ignition module. Did you replace with new ? Maybe try a gentle to tighten up the grip the female spade terminal has on the modules male spade terminals ?

Your local mechanic joined up yet ?

I have tried to do just that for a UK based BRAT - failed. This task is not easy as I started to discover just how rugged these units are - the strength centres around the rear tubs. I used the 1.00mm thick 4" hand held grinder cutting discs, and quite a few. Be mindful of the fuel filler pipe and KABOOM chances ! There is extra reinforcement in there. If you are gonna try cut them out , I would suggest from experience - try cutting the outer rear guard skin off first so you can see wht you are dealing with. My attempt was made worse - wrong time of day - no shade under burning hot sun - only power came from a generator. Redback spiders and brown snake territory (of 21 top most venomous snakes in the world - we have 18 of them ) were other risks on mind

Well, where things happen differently 'down under' , I had this bucking, engine dying thing resolved only after a carb rebuild, full tune up parts replacement, ( dizzy 'rebuild' by previous owner think why they sold it) under tray fuel filter, under bonnet fuel filter and finally bought a new fuel pump and even that did not fix it. A blow through metal lines with all filters and pump disconnected, so was blowing air through sections at a time only when blowing the line from fuel pump to tank did I hear a thonk as crud hit the near dry floor of the tank , and I had the sender removed to see how clean and shiny the tank was until this rusty crud hit the floor of the tank ! Once cleaned out never given any problems since 1999 ! BUT, my problems of bucking were exact opposite on start up when temps were cooler - late night, early morning start ups going home on shift, usually never when I had the time to chase it !

I have fitted wagon springs to my 4WD sedan GLTA and sat about 25mm higher measured at rear bumper, felt very unstable and bounced around a lot with little load.The factory RX springs are 10.9mm thick wire, painted black and have one yelow paint daub on them as an identifier. FWD sedans use 9.9mm wire ?? Also be aware of the three or so different spring perch heights from the lower bolt hole. Affects all sort of things when swap about

Thanks. Found the thread and bumped it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/108966-ea81-mpfi-build/?hl=%2Bivans+%2Bimports+%2Bhose&do=findComment&comment=1171642 Now, wondering why a 94 Loyale is any different to an earlier one. Loyale ? Royale ? Legacy .. we got Leone if they were FWD in EA81 and EA82 gens, all EA82 wagons were mostly 4WD and DL, all we know them as L series. We also got a FWD sedan EA82 mpfi called a Royale about the time other makers made Royale for a Charles and Dianna commemorative thing, or his brother ...??

Hurry up "Bennie" - wanna see this happen !

OK, diagnostic remotely from 15,000 miles away...is the rotor pointing to the #1 spark leads terminal in the cap . I usually recall rotor points to firewall when in #1 TDC on RHD anyway .....

I read it only yesterday on a topic search, now, can't find it. I think someone suggested that an S shaped radiator hose from a Legacy did a good job of joinng an EA81 BRAT/Brumby radiator to an EA82 inlet manifold. Might have been Ivan ? Any idea what year Legacy ?( Liberty as we call them), upper or lower hose I should be chasing ?? thanks

Count the switches in the side of the box. A dual range should have three. The reverse light switch is so close to the lhs gearbox mount you almost need to remove mount to swap out switch. A DR likely has two more above somewhere to light up your dash hi lo lights

was just jumping in to suggest a good close look at tyres, ply separation, bubble up on the tread section.Though some replaced CV shafts have been known to crap out within weeks for some reason. Does it vary depending on the torque demand rather than speed ?

Neville, have you got a part number to assist your enquiry?

21 splines are more the EA81 clutch for both 200 and 225mm dia clutches. 24 spline ( measures 25.4mm OD ?) and 225mm dia clutches are your EA82 4WD clutch always about twice the price of above !

Not the EGR valve itself for code 35 but the small inch by inch cube doo dad (vacuum solenoid) with vacuum lines at right angles to each other as they leave and enter it. Is mounted to the passenger side of the throttle body, a 2 wire white plastic connector, black and blue ? wires, bolted down to manifold. Commn to find they no longer click in click out with straigh 12V applied to them. A carby EA82 usually has same component to swap in, easy to check with 12V across its terminals to hear it click in out

so, you may need to see if you or Scott wired anything into canister purge pin on ecu - may need to put a resistance between pin and ground or even just a pollution solenoid hooked up, just not switching anything.

The FL's are hard to inspect within their intact clothlike covers. I have heard of one mechanical shop stuffing something and hoping to claim on dealer warranty, so the workers allegedly did their best to fry the ECU by shorting out terminals - could not kill it ! I also had a FL fail mid flight at 60mph due to corrosion and it had to happen some time. Car almost would not run, the behind the dash stunk of burnt out capacitors etc, indicator bulb filaments spat out to melt into the insides of the bulbs due to voltage spike/surge that ocured as corroded FL made contact again ECU survived. Guess who has an 89 EA82 mpfi ECU ? Maybe you only ruined a battery ? Try another first !

Yeah, what I did sort of baffles me as to how it gives what it does. It was a direct bolt up at both ends - flange and heads ! Pretty stunning that Fuji did not do something quirky so as not to allow interchangeability. What it did do was push the rear section back a little, stressing th hanger rubbers of the genuine rear section/ I am yet to custom fabricate its hanger bracket from the gearbox to rear of Y pipe - they don't mate up. Feels noticeably more responsive starting with light throttle, also with a 300kg trailer, almost don't feel it is there ! Retaining the rear factory section, did not even measure it. Though at low idle revs tail pipe can be heard to sputter, fixed that on another by fitting 2" from back of Y pipe. No money for this unnecessary mod at the moment. I am happy - Feels like I imagine an EJ would feel like

Yeah, the only hydro liftered EA81's we got here were imported as used engines from Japan. After one lifter died on me for a moment, I tried to order new hydro from Subaru dealer, told no listing, did not come out in Oz so no listing, not available. Sorry

Only just fitted the Y pipe of an EA82 onto my Brumby EA81. The pipe ID of original is 38mm, the EA82 L Series is 44mm. I now get crisper low end acceleration, improved drivability and still a quiet exhaust as the rar section is all still genuine. The difference is really noticeable with ` 300kg trailer on the back which used to stifle things, now, it is almost as if the trailer is not there ! That much difference to my 30,000km old 40 thou rebore rebuild with 20/60 cam and LPG as the fuel - propane

It might, now you ask, but tailgate may not clear it in fully open position