jono

As you may have read elsewhere, I am currently swapping an EA81 out of my Brumby, an EA82 going in, in front of an already fine running 5MT DR from an EA82 series. Got no clutch pedal !! Measured up against a running EA82 and the front face of the fork where the cable pulls is 105mm from the engine/box join in it. The bad one is 118mm from the mating faces ! This is where my problem is. Used a flywheel from a FWD EA82T XT Vortex - measures same thick at side edge as a known? 4WD EA82 flywheel The pivots, are tricky to measure in box, think I found 4mm differencs, need to check this Just how can matching components not match and cause this little grief ? The clutch kit for EA82T FWD XT Vortex is same as regular 4WD EA82, EA82T One part number for the forks for all of them. Two part numbers for the fork pivots but the first was for 85 models, next for after 85. I dont have any 85 boxes, it is a 92 L Series EA82 5MT DR, so would think al the same. If I hhave measured odd size pivot , it was on a casing, may be older 85 ? Looking to cut off the pivots stud, drill and tap, use spacers and a stud to get the fork out where it needs to be. If the collective of USMB has no idea of the differences - we're all stumped Further... all the pivots are relatively same length now that I have a few out, just some have the tip flattened off to form a recess for grease - at one time Fully installed, the pivot is about 45mm in from the front face of the bellhousing The tip end of the input shaft is about 40mm out from the bellhousing face Measured up the clutch installed on the flywheel and found the top of the pressure plate is 20mm off the back of the ring gear, the clutch fingers just 1mm below the 300mm steel rule I used. More later

Four different part numbers for the EA82 flywheels. I seem to recall a suggestion to use a 2WD flywheel in 4WD vehicles for a lighter flywheel/zippier drive. At least may have been EA81 info ??? Anyone compared 2 & 4WD flys? Done this performance enhancement ? Found issues ? I am guessing if the 4WD are heavier, there is less meat to them, further distance from the box -AND a need for a longer clutch fork pivot. I have clutch issues, based around using a 2WD flywheel and its clutch from an EA82T behind EA82 on a 5MT DR 4WD. Yet to measure installed flywheel or clutch pivot, but have found the pivots can be about 35mm and 40mm long If I have the shorter one installed, may save me, may need to fit a 4WD flywheel. If I have the 40mm - I is in trouble if the 4WD fly no fix.

thanks for adding comment - should help others if search function works - RHD exactly and don't have a proportioning valve there either Just got a washer bottle to shift further back and maybe remount heater tap a little of the make a nw back hole use old back hole as front kind of thing The clearances are even better once engine is in at its correct height with engine mounts in place, was too low on trial fit I now find :oops: Got some new problems cut/paste I have no clutch Just measured between the forward most face of the clutch fork where the cable sits - on two cars The problem car is 118mm from the front face to the bellhousing join. The L Series EA82 with five speed is 105mm I have used a flywheel and clutch from a FWD EA82T Vortex XT4 coz it was all new, swapped in a same as clutch fork as was used with my 5 speed 4WD EA82 box already in use last 9 years. a look into the timing aperture of the bellhousing at the top, the flywheel looks the same sort of position for ring gear. Just checked that there is only one part number for a clutch fork, so rule that out. There was a change of lever pivots from 85 to 86 on .... and a few different throw out bearing combo's but all I have look the same Wll, I can confirm this has not happened. Never found this before, with cable out of the way, rubber dust boot (30542AA000 - one for Wayno) slips up and off, some light on th subject and can see as clear as day that everything is nice and in place. Just been comparing things. Pivot ball and shaft on several L 5MT 4WD and one 2WD 5MT-T boxes and getting ~35mm and ~40mm total lengths ! 5mm further down the leverage point could be the difference ? There are also 4 different flywheel part numbers with 4WD and 2WD being different. Maybe 4WD thicker and heavier recall someone saying to use a 2WD flywheel for more zippy, so maybe if I find a short pivot, swap it for longer and shove that in. But, found difference in pivots from a 3.9:1 5MT 23 spline to a 3.7:1 5MT 25 spline, another totally shagged __________________

Woo HOO! Success ! And, someone call the Guinness Book of Records, done the spline align fit nice first try second time in a row - ever !! The secret might be in wire brushing the input shaft splines, some nice red Timken wheel bearing grease and a cut off input shaft aligning tool OK, looks like the secret is in at least a few things. A test fit to see where the soft chassis rails are looking for a mild pummel, second was that I separated the metal mounting plate from the engine mount rubber, worked out to elongate to the lower side of each plate to give less distance between the bottom member studs AND bolted the babies to the block/bellhousing with about 3mm freeplay short of tight - what this did was allow the studs to naturally fall closer to each other due to gravity and the 'balance' of a free hanging engine mont/plate combo. Just lowered the donk by block'n'tackle so easy was not funny - they went in, aligned without human intervention. Pulled it out again off the engine cross member to try it again (and coz I forgot that flywheel 'inspecton' plate below between engine and gearbox ) I now have about 5mm clearance both chassis rails - heaps ! Might also be partly due to me filing the fin/flutes down to flush with the main body of the dizzy side rocker cover, and a little off the turbo side. Also discovered I forget the water plug for the turbo side head, given she is NA at the moment. Just had a thought...I could have retained the water hose off the thermostat housing, normally to turbo- direct it to an extra coolant cooler and back to the head ! Actually water flows other way .....? might as well use size 48 while it is there

see, someone told you to stay away from turbo engines

thanks fellas, no mention of chassis bashing then ??? The ute is an 84, the test fit ute years earlier a 92, thought there may have been a difference at first. Arr ys, the stud size of the engine mount itself is next size up I think. I elongated the slot in the engine cross member as far as it should go based on where a nut and washer below would have even flat surface to mate up to. It is cooler now, had breakfast, going out to file off the rocker flute and try assemble things from underneath about the mounts. The wedges sound like a good ida - got some ceramic tile wedges about Any more experiences and tails still appreciated

Taking a break from 100F degree temps (in a little white shaded, double vented temperature sampling box or whatever 54C is in Fahenheit in the sun!! ) Been trying to explore the term shoehorn - shoving an EA82 engine in my Brumby/BRAT Some years back I did a trial fit with another body, no clutch or flywheel on engine to ease things, no engine mounts. It dropped in nice and neat with 3 - 5mm to spare either side. Now, I am at the point where I am ready with all the bits I could need to do the conversion - the EA81 is out and the EA82 is in, but stuck The engine crossmember was modifid years ago to take an EA82 with mounts and been tried out of car -resulted in elongated mounting holes and a turbo scallop for good measure. What my mistake was, was not to retain same mounts, or at least mark them as "fits nice" I have just painted up a set of mounts and bolted them in place. Lowered the engine in place and she is lined up, bolted to gearbox and jamming dizzy side against chassis rails. Rather than dismantle a beaute clutch align - I have removed engine mounts just to see how things look. OK, bit close but it fits wide wise Just remembered last time I thought would not hurt to remove the fin from the rear of the rocker cover dizzy side to gain a smidgeon of extra clearance. Now wished I'd taken notes of just where a lfh might have been handy on the rails. Still trying not to undo nice clutch align Anyone got any tips on their own experience of EA82 fitment to EA81 series bodies? I am thinking need to elongate the hole in the plate that is bolted to the engine mount to get a bit of adjustment, and may also try fitting engine mount to engine cross member first, then bolt up to engine block. Small hands would be desirable with this in mind.

on the EGR solenoid, just feed it 12V and see if it clicks - you'll feel the click of it if you hold it in your hand if it is OK, no real need to suck as well for this initial check, then maybe suck if you get clicking. The coolant temp sensor for the ECU on its green two wire plug ? 17mm from memory with M12 1.5 pitch? thread if you were to plug it. I don't know why diagnosticians don't feed sensor pickups with known range of resistanc with a ohm wheel...get a driver , you sit in passenger seat and dial up the resistance range as someone drivs, see if you get any changes. Should work for any sensor that feeds resistance values to the ECU

It has been done putting EA82T heads and turbo on an NA EA82 short, but need to tinker with initial timing, think 20 on a Series 1 was reduced 10 or 12 DBTDC and got a nice strong pulling engine combo. If it goes bang you won't know if it was gonna happen on the NA engine, or your turbo made it do this. I built up same EA82 carb block, EA82T heads, cams etc and about to only install it NA to start with and see how yours goes first

sounds like a loose baffle in exhaust or loose cat converter if you have one ?

check this light discussion out ..... http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18205&highlight=fusible+links all about searches on FLs updates in our older gen Subies

are the webers same function each barrel ? I thought they were primary and secondary, so if you left thm split as it sounds you want, one pot gets fed, until secondary opens up and feed the other ?? Great idea though, just an adaptor so both ports benefit from the weber each side, check for bonnet clearance and coolant flow. Try it !

Im thinking that so far, two of my Subes as they hit age 23 had their fusible links corrode away and crash causing alarming volt spikes/surges that killed my car - not the ECU though, smoked all sorts of circuits under the dash, killed warning lights, my auto 4WD selector for when wipers.kickdown & braking circuit function, fried my hazrds bulbs when I hit the hazards, fried my roof light when I opened door. The corrode away did not kill things, it was the connect/disconnect of the FL that caused alt to spike up. Check FLs, can even replace with more modern plastic box units that slide in. More info here >> http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18205&highlight=fusible+links

you didn't get it quite, it is in the piston that gives the lower ~7.7:1 comp ratio of EA82T which may also serve a purpose in a NA engine if you were to try a low grade fuel perhaps - digester gas ?

That is what I should have done ...shoved a camera in the hole with flash ! I couldn't see a thing thios time around. last time I made a light globe on a stick and shoved it in tank. Ivans banjo idea crossed my mind but clearance issues ?? could just see the banjo getting snagged on something

KROLL ! Must be written by someone in cold climate appreciating an oil burning furnace in their garage or shop. Aren't they just fantaastic, the ducks guts, awesome heater !!

Could have been me writing this two weeks ago. 90 psi would not shift anything between that 3" bit of hose at tank supply pipe outlet until I shoved a coat hanger wire down and shoved as hard as I could, busting sock off? or hole? then I could get air in the tank ! Then I could get fuel flow for first time in 8.5 years !! BRUMBY runs !! Also discovered that with IGN on , no pump power, while cranking, no pump power - only when engine runs did pump power come on, so a small flood down carby got things going to start with. Odd thing is I pulled third fuse from one end marked as fuel pump and ignition, while cranking with this out _ I heard pump go on cranking ??

looks like i got it wrong.......

you could use the edit function to save someones mind remembering some mistruth Factory manuals also have different spec on Series 1 turbo exhaust valves. It is funny, I once imagined I had seen EA82T in the block casting, and once pointed out to me that it not true, never seen it since

609 km to run out of fuel in one EA81 Brumby/BRAT running std tyres, look at 55 litres to refill - all highway running at about the 60 mph mark. Jetting ?? oops, this was standard Hitachi and was on fresh full rebuild minus a crank pin grind - all it needed was a linish, 20/60 cam and 4 speed DR. $3 a US gallon ! Kill for that almost !! A$1.68 per litre here with exchange rate - aussie dollar buys about 88 US cents ...

I sort of feel like Jeszek does ,when I look at a certain unfinished project ...got a little closer today, tracked down a genuine sump gasket, sump off, removed old crusty gasket, degreased the sludge in the bottom, washed and washed the sump innards out until sqeaky clean. Oh, Jeszek, if you saw the sludge of 23 years and 188,000km, you'll wanna do more than an oil change on the BB ! Just gotta find and flat black if not already, a pair of engine mounts and my EA82M will be ready for transplanting into my 84 Brumby EA82M ? you ask ? EA82 carb block, EA82T reco heads, EA82T cams, mizpah reco HVLA's, mpfi inlet manifold and throttle body with injectors blocked off, brand new clutch found in old wreck, and set up to take dedicated LPG - propane to you guys in the US & Canada M is for Mongrel

after Tweetys finding of differences in the MAFs sharing same part number, you would expect good guys like Rock to update the info available on this part and state that currently is known two different size mounts and to check measures against theirs and yours before ordering. If they have not done so, would be a shame. They don't make the parts, just carry them and on sell them. Their closeout prices are good, even better if the stuff does not take a one year (so far) vacation enroute in WA no fault of Rocks mind you ! COOOOOooooEEEEeeeeee Maaaarky !!!

Talking 30 year Subaru here, not 30 year old Mistu They both have had thirty years for abuse to have occured by second or subsequent owners, skimping on service or parts replacement and maintenance.They are all going to be cans or worms, but once sorted and done properly and kept up maintenace, can be great affordable fun. Non turbo mpfi heads have been drilled to suit oil feed and drain back as replacements - I have a pair of welded heads giving good service so far. Watch the coolant pipe and its banjo bolt at front underside of your turbo side head - they gunk up, rust away, the turbo coolant passages also cop junk, most metal colant pipe are rotten by now, but all replaceable still I think. The EA82T can be a spirited drive, but in some places I have found my EA81 twin carb is just as fast/slow up mountain climbs, hits same temperature and pings in same spot. The EA82T is not a race car, more a better tourer. I found the old temp sender was not stuffed, just never read hotter than 1/4 , so an on engine metal temp monitor made up from ebay aquarium temp controller monitor an engine saver. Change oil and oil filter at 6,000mile intervals, and check the oil helps. Latest aquisition came with its dead EA81 - had about a litre in the sump

fixed yet ? are you lucky enough to have the other pair of threaded holes available, such as not have the cast iron air injection pollution control bolted in using all four threaded holes? A fix I have seen done, once you plug the oil hole, is to cut the header pipe right through and rotate it 90 degrees and use the previously unused holes ast he new exhaust stud holes, weld the exhaust up in 90 degree twist position

Of course ! No vacuum above the throttle when closed ! Gloyale, you have explained the ported vacuum so simply A closer look at an mpfi throttle body reveals the two port pipes to the front of the throttle body are right through to just above the throttle butterfly and I think both are the same, just plenty of ports to tap, and the one closest to the dizzy supplies "ported vacuum" to the dizzy and is T pieced right at the throttle body with other half of that T going to pollution cannister I think. I also think the second ported vacuum pipe on the turbo side/drivers side in RHD goes off to the EGR control solenoid. I have been looking at factory manuals and Fuji had several different systems to control the EGR between markets. Switzterland and Sweden seem to be grouped together, Saudi Arabia and Australia sometimes the same, sometimes different pollution controls to the US market. Some markets are temp controlled and speed controlled