johnceggleston

95s didn't have that piece. you can remove it, but the door might not latch right if you do. it may be aligning the door so it will latch. guiding the door to close to the right place.

with torque binding, the front and rear wheels 'want' to turn the exact same number of times. when you drive anything except a straight line, there is a differentce between the front and rear wheel rotations, this difference builds up. on long runs it works itself out through the tires on the pavement. on short runs the difference is stored in the drive line, drive shaft, axles, tires. when you shift into neutral or park, it releases. in neutral it just bleeds off, in park it bleeds off and is caught by the park lock. i can't imagine how this could continue without the rear drive shaft in place. does the car lurch in park if you are on perfectly flat ground?

this has some god info. also, the process of pulling wires to help figure it out may help. http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm

next time you are in the car, try pausing in N before shifting into park. let the 'whatever' bleed off before going into park. i would have thought this was binding related , but with the rear shaft gone how could it be?

whle we're on the the subject, i know the recommended mix is 50/50, but is 66/34, antifreeze to water, better or worse for cooling.? are there any conditions where more than 50/50 is desirable?? in milder climates, nevere below 0'F, is less antifreeze ok? just wondering.

i'd put on a good pulley, it's seems to me that its more likely to cause the wobble than the crank. clean up the crank, good pulley, lock tite and torque it on. the biggest down side to failure is your granny being stranded. good luck.

i've got one if you want it , 20$ shipped. pm me if interested.

this co owner must be a silver tounged devil, to turn a disatisfied service customer into a new car buyer. any way congrats on the new ride.

the torx screw tightens the piece that pinches the ball. i took mine apart and found a broken 'spring' piece of metal inside. i added someting to add friction, paper or card stock. mine still a little lose, but better than it was.

there's a trunk release "cancel' lever on the inside of the trunk latch. double check to make sure it is still in the release mode. that's ofcourse if you have a sedan, hard to tell from your post.

looks new!! year, miles, trans, awd and engine size? they don't offer that car in the us. but with gas going up, maybe soon.

you are going to be in the minority with that opion on this site. some might say..." this means war". more realisticly, don't be surprised if you get challenging responses.

did the car have the 'special coolant additive" put in the radiator prior to the head gasket work. IIRC, that was a pre-requisite of warranty HG work. your radiator may be blocked. i have heard of this happening after the HGs are done in cars with the 'stuff' added . if this is the case, a good rule of thumb would be to flush your cooling system when doing HGs if you have put in the "stuff". ihave read where stop leak only hardens when exposed to air, guess what happens when you drain the system to do the HGs. i course, i could be all wrong. please correct me if i am.

it must be a hell of a plug.

i've read here that the offset was a 5.5". and since i know nothing about wheels, i just ASSUMED it was 5.5 for all legacy / outback wheels. are steel wheels different than alloy? if you were making a farm "truck"out of an outback and wanted much larger tires, could you put spacers on the hubs, (cut out the fenders) so the wheel/tire would clear the struts?

what are the chances the engine is a 1.8L or similar??

anything else on this fuse??

and, that pulley has to come off every time the timing belt is changed, so it was designed to be removed and replaced every 100k miles at the very least. just make sure it is re-torqued properly, 125 ft. lbs i think. if the bolt works lose, it can in fact ruin your crankshaft.

how long since the timing belt was changed?? the blinking (16 times) AT Oil Temp light at start up means there was an electrical malfuntion / failure in the auto trans the last time you drove the car. most likely in the transfer clutch duty c solenoid for sending power to the rear wheels. but it could be several other things as well.

maybe the change took place a year or 2 later, just don't discard the old receivers until you are sure they work. the leather seats i put in my 97 gt need the be swapped. but i don't remember the year, may have been 99.

yes, bolt right in. but you will have to swap the front seat belt receivers from the 96 seats onto the 97 seats.

on a auto trans thje parts are only 200$ vor so, and you can do from under the car in the driveway. the shop i used charged about 300$ to swap the extention housing. i don't know about manual trans, but before i spent 500$ on a new part for a old trans, i'd look for a good used trans. swapping them is a job, but very straight forward. (i paid about 500$ for a swap.) when was the last time you did your clutch? is it due?

given the dealer / mechanic limitations you apparently face, i'd be pro active. do all the maintenance when due or earlier. do it your self if you can. read here for tips on things to avoid or 'must do things' and must do methods. almost any mechanic can change a spark plug, flush a trans and replace brake pads, you just want to avoid being in the situation where your trans is broken or your head gaskets are blown and you have to get it fixed right away. timing belts may be a challenge, but if you give them a very specific list of what you want done and not rely on their knowledge or lack of it regarding subarus, you may be ok.

could you explain this a little more. my understanding was that the speed differential causes the viscous fluid to heat up and thicken? then causing the rear to engage. with no load on the rear it seems it would be less wear than with the drive shaft in. but i don't know that much about manual trans.

since you just installed them i'm sure you would have noticed if there were 2 wiring plugs under the driver seat. the second one would be for heat. some do. the passenger in my 97 only had one plug under it. for the heat, no seat belt warning connector.