johnceggleston

i recently read an ad for lowering springs, try including that in your search details. i can't remember what car it was for or if it was here or on www.crazedlist.org. (that's a great search site for http://www.craigslist.com (?). if you use 'crazedlist' you'll need the mozilla firefox browser with the 'web developement' add on, or what ever they call it. they are both free. welcome to the party!!! :banana::banana:

looks like a nice car. looks like a really, really nice place to live. great view.!!! i love virginia. you can put on outback struts (96 - 99) and lift it up a little, no need to change the springs unless the struts come with them... and larger tires for that matter. it will throw off your speedometer a little if you go with larger diameter tires, but it will lift it even more. if you just paid for new tires, you may want to wear them out before you replace them. but the struts will still work. how do you like driving it??? i assume it's AWD??? i put 90k miles on a 93 just like that, from 75k to 165k. all i had to pay for was brakes and timing belt, and then i had an accident. it was a great car!!!! that's what convinced me to stick with subaru.

a loose puley will wobble when the car is running, maybe for a bad pulley as well. wobble is bad.

don't mess with the pinch bolt. there are other ways to r&r the axle. i undo the sway bar link, the steering tie rod at the hub and the bolt on the bottom of the hub, not the pinch bolt. some don't even undo the tierod end. another option is to mark the the strut to hub bolts and undo them. that way you can put it back together exactly the way you found it and hopefuly won't have to pay for an alignment. do a search.

wait a minute, when you pull the plug and drain the trans you get about 3.5 qts, but the trans holds more, almost 3 times more for the 2.5L trans. check your manual, or do a search . there was a post listing the correct amounts just last week. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91690&highlight=only+difference

i think the spec is 2000 max.

S = 95 T = 96 V = 97 W = 98

the 2.5L wasn't sold in the us until 96. the trans number you posted for your car fits in a 95 leg 2.2L wagon or sedan, early 95 i think. in 96 the legacy trans went to a tz102zabaa i think. the last 2 letters mean: AA = legacy BA = outback CA = GT but thoses don't really matter, it's the second 2 you have to avoid. ( if you paste your trans number into the search tab / box at the top of the page, you'll find lots to read.) edit: there is an ID plate on the driver side strut tower close to the fender under the hood near the windshield washer tank. read it from the side of the car. it will tell you both the engine and the trans part numbers and well as color code body style/ trim, etc.....

i've never seen the trans part number on the jdm trans. it must be unique to japan. it is not on any usdm auto trans as far as i know. however, it will work in your car as long as it has a 4.11 final drive ratio and comes from the 95 - 98 period. have you looked here for a trans? you may find one closer and / or cheaper. www.car-part.com any auto trans will fit from a legacy, 2.2L, 95 - 98. any trans that starts with TZ102Z.... and then has 4 letters like yours above, will work. it really doesn't matter what the 4 letters are. stay away from any trans with TZ102Z2... and then 3 letters, these will not work. the ones with the second 2 have a different final drive ratio. good luck.

also known as subaru in japan. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pleiades

nipper, where to this year???? are there any trails or hills to climb or is it all pavement?? enjoy your trip.

and then there's this part: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=torque+converter

there's a great thread on seating the torque converter with pictures. it may be in the repair manual. give a search. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=torque+converter

do your self a favor, remove anything of value, radio, tires, trans, before yu turn it over. i'd be tempted to swap in an engine with bad head gaskets.

and the only difference is the torque converter, the 2.5s is larger.

from a non-engineer, layman's perspective, it's not really noise goop. it's glue, sort of. it in effect glues the prake pad to the shimm and/ or caliper which keeps it from making noise. so use it. engineers and mechanics please insert corrections here.

front speed sensor would be my guess, but i've never heard of it causing no 4th gear. did you run the rpms up until you hit the rev limiter, that should make it shift.

she is young after all. no wonder she likes driving it.

my 97 obw seems to lock up too soon. i live on a hill which i usually drive up in 3rd, but unless i'm accelerating up the hiil the trans / TC locks up almost imediately after it shifts up from 2nd. this usually then gives me a bit of a 'lugging' feeling. at 126K miles i just sort of figured a couple of the sensors were marginal. once my GT is back on the road, i plan on looking at the O2 and knock sensors. who knows about torque converters????

the ej22 became interferrence in 97.they made a few changes to squeeze more power out of it. and if i read and remember correctly, it was motivated in part because higher emmision standards zap engine power, so they tweek the engine design so not to take a step backwards in over all power.

is the battery good?

good work!!!

ok, i'm not an expert, but the last time some one talked about the right timing marks and TDC, after about 669 posts, he finally figured out that he used the wrong marks on the cam sprockets. it's not the ARROWS, it's the tiny little cut line on the edge of the sprocket, usually has some paint daubs asociated with it. double check the timing marks. and if that is what you used, i apologize for suggesting you got it wrong. but double check all 5 timing marks.

this sounds like the front differential vent tube. i don't think the there is an over flow for the ATF. (i thought that was a sealed system.) the ATF dip stick is on the driver side near the firewall. the dip stick for the front dif in on the passenger side down low. which one did you put the ATF in ? i don't remember what you started out doing, but is there a chance you damaged the seal betwen the trans and the front diff? i don't see how a t-belt job could do that.

edit, delete, error.