johnceggleston

as you know, 97 is when the ej22 went interferrence, maybe that was the month ( a little early for 97 but...) and they made other changes as well like the tensioner. but i still thought the kits would be the same.

ok, dumb question, how do you remove the motor.? when mine went bad in my obw i couldn't figure it out. is there a trick?

brake fluid sensor never occurred to me, i just thought it was cable related. and i do have rear disc brakes, but the hand brake is drum of course. sounds like it's time to check out the brakes, wish it were warmer. thanks

do your research, i think you'll need a 00 - 04 engine, some one else should know. have you priced them yet? www.car-part.com once you get the outback working, dangle it in front of the guy you sold Izzy to and trade.

for about a month, when it's below freezing, mid 20s, the dash brake indicator light stays on when i release the hand brake. this is first thing in the morning, later in the day after driving the car the light is off. ii can't feel or here the brakes dragging, but who knows. i first thought it was freezing water related but now i'm thinking cable lubrication. any suggestions? i guess i should jack it up when cold and turn the wheels by hand to check for dragging. is there anything else to consider? i did have the 'no brakes' when cold the other morning but it was 14* then and i was looking for it. thanks, john

probably not this simple, but i bought a 97 outback with no sound... someone had ripped out the whatever from under the passenger seat. i pulled the radio and dis connected the radio harness from the plug going to the missing equipment and plugged it back into the factory speaker wiring harness, works great. after thought, if they did rip out from under the drivers seat, they may have disconnected the heater connection there.

what if they start crying, can i give hints then??

hint http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=778733&postcount=9

so when you are negotiating with a car salesman, does it strengthen or weaken your position to catch them in a lie? do they then come clean and give a great deal, or tell another lie to cover their rump roast and talk delivery prep and undercoating?

you can put the fuse in the FWD fuse holder to compare your current driving conditions to known FWD conditions. if it is in fwd all the time after sitting a year, i would suspect fluid. change the ATF and drive it, maybe it will free up. you can try unplugging the wiring connector to the trans which will put you in limp mode, 3rd gear only and 'locked ' in 4WD, to see if the rears will work at all, but if it's gummed up, that may not tell you anything.

i've got just the piece of tape, it's on my old vcr clock.

so if you have the rear drive train and there is no fuse in the FWD holder, then try unplugging the wire harness to the trans, (passenger side near the fire wall down on the bell housing, one of the 2. this will force the trans into limp mode, you will only have 3rd gear and it will be 'locked' in 4WD which will give you torque bind in turns. if not , you'll need repairs to get AWD working.

there's also the lift the car up, drop the engine cross member, rack, wheels, struts?, with trans, down method. but i can't figure how to do it unless you have a ceiling lift / crane. a good size engine hoist will do the work, but the legs are always in the way.

simplier yet, unplug the wiring harnees going to the trans. you should then be stuck in 3rd gear and 4WD. it it works then look at cutting the RIGHT wire. if you don't have 4WD with the harness unplugged, you never will unless you make some repairs. right?

what's the product???

but will be fine for 2 yrs?? and then leak? i thought thet leaked right away.

i may have some thing to do with when the article was written.

you're lucky, mine 97 OBW 127k quiets down but it keeps right on slappin'. it's been slappin for 30k since i bought it, hopefully another 130k.

i'm not as familiar with rears as i am with fronts, but ..... you need to get a haynes manual from the auto parts store. otherwise you are going to make some mistakes waiting on answers from the board. i don't think you have to remove the axle nut to pull the rear drum. you don't on the front, but it's been a while since i did rear drum brakes. usually if the rear shoes are not too tight, the rear drum will pull off after you have removed the wheel. so i could be wrong. again i haven't done rear drum brakes on a subaru, and i still think you need a manual, 15$. it's worth the money, and you'll understand more when asking questions and getting answers here. let us know how it goes.

but we digress, rumor has it if you elivate the front of your car when draining the atf you will get slightly more fluid out. but you will still need to do it multiple times. i've already replaced one trans because i ran it low on fluid, i'm not willing to risk that again. i'll drain and fill with the engine OFF. or pay a shop.

it was a 96 legacy sedan 2.2L w/ 133k miles and i swap in a rear extention housing from a bad trans. i included a new duty c and had the luxury of inspecting the transfer clutch before the swap and it looked ok to me. labor was about 285$ which i thought was high. but cheaper than dealer repair or replacement trans. the duty c was about 75$ on line, be sure to get 2 valve body gaskets if you order it yourself. so i spent about 360$ on the fix. runs great, now with another 15k miles on it.

the flashes means there was an electrical problem with the trans the last time it was driven. my duty c was intermittent for several years before ultimate failure. i removed the rear section of the drive shaft until i could make repairs. what year & miles is your trans. the usual first fix is changing the trans fluid, which can not hurt. but if you have the flashing light it may not help, with an electrical problem.

according to nipper's recently found parts site, they are different, but i don't know how. it would make sense that they are taller for the taller outback strut. does it make sense that this would give the outback strut a longer travel distance?? i guess they could be the same size but the outback is designed for a heavier car, but the difference in weight is only 500lbs or so?? http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20383AC141/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20383AC200/ gt is different as well http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20383AC350/ check out how many models use the same right rear strut. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20363AC000/ .

95 -99 all the instrument clusters are the same. if you find one with mileage close to yours, just swap the whole thing and don't mess with the tach it self. save the old for a spare.

first let me say i do not have very much hands on experience on axles. but... from the picture provided by the original poster, the axles, old and new, APPEAR to be the same and he stated they had the same 'range of motion'. but more interesting, i think i remember, he stated he tried to re-install the old axle and had the same problem as with the new. this leads me to believe that it has to do with the configuration or the alignment during the install. i liked the idea putting nthe weight of the car on the wheel and then going for the trans hookup.