johnceggleston

thanks, i did some, will do more.

i have some for cheap, but i don't know if they will fit yours. top quality bearings, i just don't have any need for them. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94608

i bought one with 'engine noise' it turned out to be piston slap. of course in the beginning i didn't reallly know what that was. but since it was running, and i already had the engine waiting to go in, i decided to see how long i could drive it. that was 30k ago. if you can get it for the right price, drive it around town and work at diagnosing the noise. if it dies... well you pay for a tow and then swap. i wouldn't put a lot of money into an egine that may have been cooked. if it doesn't die........woohoo.

from a buyers point of view, he says rod knock, you say, needs engine. he says 1300$, you say 300$. if you have to swap in an engine you want it cheap. i'd plan on an engine swap, you may get lucky tho. depending where you are, 2.2s are cheap. ask gary, he's in WV.

the best year outback is the one you own, that's paid for, that needs little or no repair.!! now if you have two, then you have a dilemma.

i'm pretty sure of this info for legacys and foresters, but not 101%. so please comment. imprezas should be similar. if you have a 2.5L auto it's a 4.44 rear diff if you have a 2.5 manual, or a 2.2 auto (95-00) you have a 4.11 rear diff. if you have a 2.2 manual (95-00?) you have a 3.9 rear diff. (except, 96 2.2L manual outback, it has the 4.11 rear diff. -edited 1/9/09) some time around 01, lsd's were optional on outbacks, manual and autos, a couple of years later, lsd's were standard on outbacks. they are often referred to as 'locking'. the housings for the rear diffs (95 - 05 probably 09?) are all interchangeable, find an lsd from an '03 and bolt it in. granted it will be a viscous lsd, but what kind of diff are you driving now. you can confirm the lsd outback year at www.cars101.com . i can feel the supply of lsd's shrinking as i write this. have fun.

or ... "a sucker is born every minute" p. t. barmun

i'd be surprised if it was a 60k belt, i thought they all went 100k around that time. ask for service history to be sure. lack of any records means a new belt regardless, it's not worth the risk of bent valves. so keep that in mind when making the deal.

i wouldn't be too surprised, lots of electrical problems are intermitten at first, or only under certain conditions.

just copy the address in the address bar at the top of the page and paste it in the dialog box like this one from the other day: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic697.htm i considered using the address for the pictures of the wet t-shirt contest at harry's in key west.

move the wire front to rear to see if the problem moves. i have an occasional mis fire whe nthe weather conditions are just wrong, usually when moisture is condensing on the engine due to a rapid weather / temp / moisture change. it happens so rarely, i haven't bothered to chase it. about once a year, when the weather is really damp, foggy, wet, rainy, i'l get a cel and a rough running engine, it usually includes a blinking cel. and this last time i wondered if the engine was going to die. i kenw what it was so i didn't bother to check the code. when the car warmed up / dryed out it ran better, when the weather dried out it ran fine. no blinking after the first day. 2 weeks later the cel went out. when i finally checked for the code it to was gone. what's the weather like where the car is. too check your car for this condition. use a water mister to spray a mist around the coil, wires and plugs at night. if there is an electric leak, it will show up. back in the old days when the wires & dist cap on my 60 chevy pickup leaked, i'd spray them with a silicone something to help seal them up. worked short term. i have no idea if it would today. were the wires new 20k ago? were they subaru wires? good luck.

absolutely

Search by OEM Part Number: (Select Make) Subaru Multi-Part Search OEM Catalog Item Number ............. MSRP......... Core Price ............. Price 84057aa000 ............................... $125.88 ........ $0.00 ............... $90.64 RESISTOR

i think at some point they moved it into the fuse box near the battery, but i didn't know it was in 98.???

any fuse will do , you're just completing the circuit. put in the fuse and look for the FWD light on the dash, and then compare how it drives with the fuse to without the fuse. there is a noticeable difference between FWD and AWD. try changing lanes on the hiway. if there is no difference, try unplugging the wire harness that goes to the transmission. you can find it on the rear of the engine, passenger side, near the top of the trans bell housing. there are 2 connectors there, I THINK the larger one goes to the trans. follow the wires to be sure. the other one goes to engine wiring, follow the wires. with the harness unplugged the car will be in 'limp mode', designed to get you home if the electronics in the trans fail. you will only have 3rd gear and you will be 'locked' in 4WD (if you have it). drive in some circles in a parking lot and look / feel for torque bind. you'll know it when you feel it, no torque bind, no 4WD, you need repairs or a used trans. if you do have torquebind then the mechancal parts, (clutch plates, hubs, shaft, etc.,) are in the trans and working. if you don't have torque bind, there is something broken inside. let us know.

i take it this is an impreza outback sport?

once you decide on a price and are satisfied that you want the car, run a carfax report. it's a cheap investment / insurance in a car you are willing to buy. if there is something questionable on the report, you can use that to lower the price or just walk away. or after you strike the deal and just before you sign and put down a deposit, say "just one more thing, i'll need a carfax report ". if he balks, you walk. no one will throw away from a 3500$ deal over the price of a carfax report. plus, if it steers you away from the car, you can check others you look at for the next 30 days. good luck.

anyone can make the leap to a sales job, especilly a straight commision sales job, which most car sales are. but you may starve or lose your house before you're good at it. there are any number of books on selling and cold calling (the art of finding some one to sell to). most center on LISTENING to the 'would be' buyer and offering a solution to his problem or his need. you also need to make the features of your product, a benefit to him. and lastly you need to figure out what his objection is (what's keeping him from buying from you today) and eliminate it. sometimes it's the littlest of things. example: i was trying to get a homeower to sign a contract for a $10k bathroom remodel and i couldn't get her to. i finally ask why she didn't want me to do the job and she told me she didn't like the toilet ($120) i had included in the package. i told her she could have any toilet she wanted, and she signed. also, it's easy to know and talk about selling, it is altogether different to be good at it. by the way, every job interview i ever went on was a sales presentation by both sides. the employer was selling me on how great the job was, and i was selling him on how great i would be at the job.

maybe you shouyld try and identify the dayrunner relay, it too could be corroded. or just check them all one at a time.

on my engine that ground cable is bolted on one of the starter bolts, double check to make sure both are still there, one bolt, one nut on a stud i think.

because of my very limited knowledge, i would never base the correct fluid level on a cold trans; everyone knows you check it when it's hot. but, it can be difficult to read when hot. so i would always check the fluid level when cold after a drain and refill, just ot see if i'm in the right ball park. then fine tune after a test drive with the fluid hot. there are some tricks to reading the dip stick when hot if you want to search for them.

what color was the fluid you drained?? where did you pour in the new fluid, passenger or driver side??

what color was the fluid you drained? where did you pour in the new fluid? passenger or driver side?

check to make sure none of the pins are bent.

have a couple of your friends call and offer him 400 - 600$, just to warm him up. make sure he has your number handy, at some point some one will offer him 900 and he'll take that because the cash is in his face.?!?!