johnceggleston

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i think there is an outback bumper set up, and a legacy setup. the h6 was only in the outback?? legacy includes brighton, l, ls and gt.

if you are doing it your self, i will be less risky to install a good used trans with a 3 month warranty and a new throwout bearing. it will cost more than replacing the bearings on the input shaft, but if you read that write up..... it's beyond me. so get the car price low enough, you can still get a good car for a good price after the trans swap. there should be others available in your price range, don't be afraid to walk away. it probably won't sell quick.

it may not be, but if you have to pull the trans for a throw out or input shaft bearings that part or the labor is all the same. now you just have to compare the parts and labor for what ever bearing may be making the noise against the cost of a used trans. i passed on a 97 obw with trans noise. it could have been the throwout bearing but it went away when the clutch pedal was pressed to the floor. i was unwilling to risk input shaft bearings. gloyale says it's doable, but not by me. but if you get it cheap enough, you can get a trans put in it. the low mileage engine is almost worth 500$.

plan on a trans swap. if the seller isn't trans noise knowledgeable, offer him 500$, cause it needs a trans, which could run 700 - 1000$ installed. if you don't have to do the swap, all the better. but start low. if you really want to get the price down, drive it to a trans shop and get a repair quote. he's probably selling it because the repair cost is too high.

i think: 90 - 94 none have egr 95 - 96 auto trans have egr, manual trans don't 97 - 98 they all have erg, although some parts suppliers indicate only auto trans do.

set up an account at www.photobucket.com and up load your picture there. then copy the bottom link, img code, for that photo into you post here. when your post is displayed, your picture will be there. to double check, you can preview your post before you submit it.

iirc, someone posted he discarded the springs altogether. on mine, the threads that stuck out beyond the nut rusted away, so there wasn't enough to start the nut on to the bolt. i needed one bolt and used one threaded all the way, no stop point. i torqued it almost all the way to fully compressed. it seems to be working. i used to take my 90 nissan pickup in every 2 or 3 years for exhaust work. they'd cut out bad part and make a piece just the right size. that's probably the best solution. in those days it was 40 - 60$.

i'd consider dropping the engine and trans, lift the car. the lift will simplify it. disconnect everything like you were pulling from above, don't touch the bell housing bolts. remove exhaust and drive shaft and shift linkage. lower the car, unbolt rear trans mount and front cross member and lift car. it will require working on a creeper for the last bit, it will work. reinstall together or seperate.

(EDIT: WRONG, deleted bad info) so if you can move the engine forward 6" you may be able to reach behind the engine to reach the clip holds the TC to the shaft. but i was looking at that clip on a tc out of the car, and i couldn't see how to doit. i have a better idea now since i've seen pics and write ups here. BUT you can with the right tools, drop the engine and trans as a unit while you lift the chassis, so it can be done. you have to lift the car front high enough to then slide the engine forward. the engine and what ever it's rolling on has to be lower than the most front cross member / bumper. or you can pull the heads with the engine in the car, this should free up the crank, maybe. in other words it can be done, but anotrher one would be easier.

there's along shaft attached to the TC so no you can't remove the engine with it. but should be able to move it forward to unbolt it. once it's forward a few inches you might be able to reach all 4 bolts. i guess you pulled the plugs. there is always the 'lift the car, drop the engine & trans' method, but no one likes it.

i guess you can clear the 'flooding' by disconnecting the wires on the fuel injectors and then crank the engine. if this is a subaru, i'd ask when was the timing belt done? does the car crank faster than normal? is the t-belt broken?

i used a piece of wire, one end inserted into the coil connector with the plug wire the other end near a ground. step back and crank it over. actually, before i did this i just removed the plug wire at the coil, the spark jumped to the manifold with out a problem. i could see and hear it.

look in the for sale section and / or post in the wanted section. there's a 97 parts post in stuff for sale. when the spring comes out of a mechanical device, it's just like letting the smoke out of an electrical device, it's dead. somebody here has one.

if you are resigned to replacing it all, cats and sensors, why not try just the sensors and see what happens. you may get a few days, a few months or more before you have to spend the big bucks. you may not. where's the downside?? the new sensors aren't going to go bad are they? you can always go back and get the cats.

95 legacys have 2 fans, one comes on when the ac turns on one comes on when the cars needs cooling, i think. is the car overheating? one or 2 fans on the impreza, one or 2 not working?

pretty much, there are different plates and a specific order but thats all. my understanding from reading the repair post is that the grooves cause the plates to hang up, which either delays / prevents engagement or locks it in 4wd, not sure which. eliminating the grooves eliminates the problem. the duty c and one hub (and i think the clutch plates) are in the rear extension housing which you can remove with the trans in the car. there is a second hub attached to the trans which mates to the one in the rear housing. but i don't think that's the hub that wears, not sure.

so why does the code go away when you install an oem o2 sensor? it's worked for lot's of people.

it's the one to the rear of the cats. disconnect the wire connector at the rump roast end of the trans, spray on some penetrating oil like pb blaster, and use a closed end wrench, slipping it over the wire. some people suggest running the car a little to warm up the pipe. letting the spray sit and seep in for a while may help.

i hear, the subaru t-stat will only fit one way, it's taller. but cheap ones will go either way. this means spring side up. but everyone says subaru part only.

it's also insurance fraud and maybe a felony?

the last time i looked, the front and rear o2 sensors were exactly the same, denso, (96 legacy) just the connectors were different. both are 3 wire units, one has a 3 wire connector and the other a 4..... shop at your own risk. it's hard to know how long some parts will last. but if the factory part lasted 120k miles, .......

slightly off topic, on a car with a transverse v6 engine, which side is bank 1, front or rear??

i used the gasket that came with the pump, i can't remember if i used rtv, but i may have. so how does the water end up on the passenger side??

that's about 115k miles. unless you ran it while it was overheating, it should not be the headgaskets. my guess, cam seals. when did you do the timing belt last. is it due?