johnceggleston

since you have both cars, use the 2.2L power steering lines with the 2.2 engine in the 2.5L car. it will look cleaner. the 2.5 lines will work, but won't fit the support bracket. let's review, so that's: 2.2L engine, p/.s lines, y-pipe, and ecu 2.5L flex plate (fly wheel), and car

sounds like you need a drive-in freezer instead of a garage.

way to go, congrats.!!:banana::banana::banana:

yes the 4 spd d/r, 83 - 87, i was just looking for the low range, off road. how different are they? the gear ratios appear to be close. is the loyale too heavy? mostly i was wondering about the bell housing bolts. what kind of mods besides the hi low lever, trans mount, shifter? is it possible/ practical to swap the 'dual range' section on to the loyale 5 speed??

95 - 99 legacy2.2L 5 speeds all have 3.9 final drive ratio. the 00 may as well. some of the 90 - 94 have the 3.9, but some don't.

more info, what engine and ecu are going into what car??? if they are compatible, there's no need to cut and splice wires.

nice catch.

it does go through the large connector but there isn't a connector in between, you have to cut. have you priced one yet, someone should have a used one. did you check to see if any of the pins in the large trans connector are bent?

IIRC, for auto trans, vss1 is on the rear extention housing on the rear of the trans, pass side. vss2 is pass side about 1/2 way down from the top near the fire wall. wiring for the rear goes through the large trans wiring connector above the vss2, front sensor, on the trans bell housing. check the connection pins, odd that both failed.

i think it's in the 28 - 32 ft lb range, but i don't have my haynes manual with me so you will need to double check that. also, at least one is really tough to get to with a torque wrench so i just matched it by feel to the ones i torqued. you can always go back and tighten them, but it's a real b!tch if you strip one out.

not the speed sensor, it's dumb, the TCU. the speed sensor rotates with the wheels the TCU does the math. neither has to consider the final drive ratio since the sensor is after the final drive. borrow a tcu from an outback. yes, using a tcu from an outback should help correct your speedo / odo. if my math is correct, the difference between the legacy auto 4.11 and the outback auto 4.44 final drive ratio is about the same as the difference between the tire circumferrenc. in other words, when they made the rear diff 'more powerful' with lower gearing, they put on larger tires and offset the gearing reduction. now the GT has the legacy tires and the outback final drive ratio, making it more powerful and quicker. by putting outback size/diameter tires on a legacy you will throw off the speedo, the outback tcu will help correct it. the drive gear in the front diff that drives the speed sensor turns with the ring gear/axles not the pinion. the gear reduction has already done it's thing. the TCU just does the math, X wheel revs per mile; wheel rev per minute = mph. larger tire size increases the distance traveled for each revolution and reduces the number of wheel revolutions in a mile. you're right about swapping the final drive gearing, and it re-compensating, power-wise, for the larger tires. you would come closer to the original power curve but still limited by the 2.2L engine. is there a significant difference in the power curves for these 2 engines?? want your outback to drive like a GT, put on GT / legacy size tires and swap in a GT tcu. want your GT to drive like an outback swap the tcu and tires. as stated in numerous other threads, there is not a dramatic difference when you swap larger tires on a legacy but there is the speedo/odo difference. just my opinion. any thoughts? ps: this is for late 90s cars.

will an 83 - 87 dual range trans bolt right into a 91 loyale 5 spd?? i have dreams... thanks, john

snow build up on the under side??? does it snow where you are???

i understand your problem and it sounds like you have hit your limit. but you need to answer 4 money questions before you change cars out of frustration. 1. what will it cost to fix this car? 2. what can you sell this car for? 3. what will it cost to buy a different car? 4. which is cheaper? it's not a question of is the car worth the repairs, it's a question of how much per mile?? they phased out the 2.2L around 2000.

i think this suggest that at the very least it is trans related. stopped at the light the engine bogs down because the trans is 'grabbing' too much. i bet a completely rebuilt trans would eliminate the problem.

not the speed sensor, it's dumb, the TCU. the speed sensor rotates with the wheels the TCU does the math. neither has to consider the final drive ratio since the sensor is after the final drive. borrow a tcu from an outback.

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Engine+Parts%2C+Engine+Gasket+Set&year=1997

if it is a hg leak, it must be pushing coolant out into the over flow and eventually,. once the 'air bubble' gets big enough, NOT sucking it all back in. try running it with no coolant in the overflow and see if you get some. not very scientific but logical. or drive it on the hiway, get it up to temp, and then let it idle in the drive way. my rad cap was bad and only leaked at temp. this is how i found it. if you have a leak, it may not show up untill it's warmed up and you can't see it at 60 mph. as the car cools off it willleak less? will a pressure test check the cap? i take it there's no gook in the over flow, or smell like exhaust gas.

that's where i read it. but when i was trying to loosen mine, before that, it never occurred to me, i would have been screwed.

i dated a girl 20 years ago whose ex was a mgr at a firestone. he had a contract to service the trucks of a big company in town. rumor has it they used to bill for work they never did. they said the work was needed, never did it, and bill the customer. there ought to be a law...... never firestone.

i had it happen when i had oil changed at firestone one time. got in to drive home, but the car wouldn't stay running. i can't imagine how the guy backed it out of the shop. when i asked for a rag so i didn't get dirty reattaching it the mgr took notice. poor kid, not his best day.

look for a loose vacume hose on the under side of the air intake. on legacys there is one that ties in about half way between the air filter box on the fender wall and the box at the throttle body. imprezas may be different, but it's still a disconnected hose.

i gave up on mine, i watched the guy at the shop tighten it, 36 inch breaker bar. but a real good piece of advice, loosen the fill plug first, if you can't get that off, walk away. what do you do if you drain the diff and can't get the fill plug out to put oil back in?????

try and look at the bolt head or the inside of the pulley, not the outside of the pulley. if the bolt head has the wobble then the keyway or pulley maybe / probably is bad. if the wobble is only on the outer edge then you probably need a new 'harmonic ballancer'' (pulley). how did you hold the crank when tightening the the bolt? how tight did you get it? did you use a torque wrench?

you're right, as usual, but adding a relay at the starter to my 97 obw, eliminated my no start problems.