johnceggleston

so i forgot the big question: why are the faceplates different on the these speedos? the wheels are the same, the tcu makes no difference... only answer i can come up with is the drive gear in the front diff for the speed sensor. the 96 leg 2.2L has a 4.11 final drive and the GT has a 4.44 final drive, the drive gears must be different. (why wouldn't the gt be the same as the legacy?) i found 3 part numbers for speedo drive gears, one is listed for all legacy, brightons thru gt & lsi, (click on usage info) http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/32715AA040/ one just for outbacks, http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/32715AA060/ and another just for GTs. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/32715AA050/ i never would have thought the drive gears were different. are they different? i have to try that outback TCU.....

i'm a rookie at timing belt replacement having only done one ej22, but it seems to me it would be best to line up the hash marks as they should be and also use the marks on the timing belt to make sure it's right. who wants to take it apart and have to do it twice? there may not be enough slack in the belt to have the hash mark right on the cam and crank and get the number of teeth between the two wrong, but why take the chance, especially on the first cam sprocket. the second is kind of whatever is left. if the belt comes with marks, double check the tooth count to make sure they are correct. if it doesn't have the marks, you can make your own by counting the teeth. things tend to move around when you are working on these things, so why not have a way to double check your work as you do it. when i do a DOHC you can be sure i'll have several small clamps to hold things in their correct places. my .02 opinion

95 should be dual, 96 is single, i don't know what 90 - 94 is, i assume it's dual.?

if they are both manual trans, they will be identical. if the 95 is an auto, it will have an ERG system or something that the 90 will not have. no big deal, just seal off whatever is left over and start driving.

you need a way to hold the crank pulley when removing and torquing the bolt. ditto for the cam sprockets if you are doing the cam shaft seals.

my plan now is to swap the face, but it's a pain getting the cluster out when the steering wheel is in the way. know any tips? this far into it, i may try my outback tcu to see what happens. i suspect it will change at least one, odo or speedo, maybe both, but who knows? i thought about swapping the front speed sensor but my guess is they are the same. my i'll double check the part numbers first. fyi: the tire circumfrence for the legacy and the gt is very very close so that's not a big issue. the difference is about 0.52%.

after i swapped the 96 2.2L into my 97 gt, i decided to swap the instrument cluster as well, after all the engine and the cluster came from the same car. i was going to swap the whole cluster, but the 2 wire connector on the back in the area of the speedo didn't match so i swapped the speedo only. while driving home that day, i noticed that i was moving along with all the other traffic, but my speedo said i was going 80 mph in a 55 zone. no way. look at these pictures and tell me which one is from the 96 legacy and which from the 97 GT. the top speedo that goes to 120 mph is from the 97 2.5L gt, the bottom one that goes to 140 mph is from the 96 legacy 2.2L. crazy, right? apparently neither car will go that fast (at least i'll never go that fast in them unless i've driven off a very tall cliff.) so it's a moot point. i took it out on the hiway and clocked it against a measured half mile. 77 on speedo ~ 66 mph, 84 on speedo ~ 72 mph. when the needle is straight up on each speedo, they are reading about a 10 mph difference. conclusion, the needles move the exact sameamount relative to the actual speed, but the faceplates with the numbers are different. (so the speedos are the same, but the faceplates are differnt.) this is an amazingly ingenious cost saving move on subaru's part, the faceplates have to be dirt cheap compared to the cost of the speedos. ok, so i put in the TCU from the 96 leg 2.2L in to see if that would correct the speedo, nope, no change. by the way, the odometer seems to be dead on, the 297 mile trip to grandma's house did not change, at least not more than 1%. by the way, i didn't drive enough with the 96 speedo on the 97 tcu to determine if the odo was off or not.

double check the markings on the dip stick. i don't think it's supposed to be full to the top.

no, it's where the lower rad hose bolts yo the engine. what model & year, 60 chevy pickup?

since he has the 2.2L car, he can use the 2.2l power steering lines and avoid that issue.

you probably shouldn't have adjusted the tierod end. i did the same job but my car was on jack stands and the wheels were of wheni did it. i tried to find the center position of the rack and then attach the steering wheel. i missed it by about 120*. the wheels and the rack can't be off center, unless the alignment is off. the steering wheel can be off center. when i did it the second time, i still missed it by ~5*. 3rd time is the charm. mine also drives straight.

any 90s 5 speed will work but as mentioned, you need to match the diff ratio. in the early years the final drive ratio jumped around a bit. even in the same year, turbo may be different than NA. did you search "trannychart" ? i don't know if it goes back to 90 but it lists all the manuals with gear ratios, us and japan.

start dosing it now with pblaster, everyday. i had one off a fla car 125k miles that wouldn't budge, started to, break. (that's when i started removing the castle nut and leaving the pinch bolt alone.) i had one with 142K that started in vermont, but mostly nc, it came right out, go figure. (the torn outer boot had been lubing it for several months.)

if you don't need the ball joint, i would think a big crowbar would separate the arm from the knuckle, castle nut should be pretty easy to split, then just pry away. easier from under the car, but....

here's a link to the TZ102ZA3BA TRANS, used from dec 93 - june 95. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_24/automatic_transmission/at_transmission_assembly/ if you click on the part number, and scroll down to usa usage and click it will show you what cars got the trans. 31000AC770 here's a link to the front diff in the same trans, dec 93 - june 95, item # 1 gear set. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_24/train/differential_transmission/ again, click on the part number and then usage. i'm wrong so often and most of what i know i learned here, so i'm reluctant to make absolute statements. but it looks like late 94 and certainly 95 impreza had a 4.11 final drive. but it all depends on when they stopped producing 94MY and started producing 95MY imprezas.

the trans number you have is actually a TZ102ZA3BA. this is from an impreza, it doesn't have a 2 right after the second Z. it's probably from a 93 with a 2.2L engine, but i can't be sure. i didn't study imprezas, and although i'm pretty sure it has the 4.11 final drive and will work in your car, i'm not 100%. so if you are paying someone to swap the trans my advice is to not use it without confirmation. if you are doing the swap your self, it's your time and your risk. if you do some reasearch here you may be able to confirm the final drive: look under 'train' http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/

thanks

and what if it or the hose was clogged closed?

typically you will have bent valves. if you are doing the work your self, you can throw a belt on it and start it up. at that point, a compression test should tell you a lot. but realistically you should plan on having the valves / heads redone. if you are paying someone to do it, i wouldn't waste time and money trying just the belt.

the 95 leg 2.2 auto has a part number TZ102ZAAAA. you can use any leg 2.2 trans 95 -98. the critical position is t 'letter A' after the second Z. as long as it's a letter and not a '2' the final drive will match. so if the trans part number starts with TZ102Z... and then a letter, it will work and match you final drive ratio, 4.11. if the 7th position is a 2 it's from a 2.5L car and the final drive ratio is 4.44. ps: the last 2 positions only indicate the model of subaru, leg =AA, gt = CA, outback = BA. they do not indicate a mechanical difference in the trans.

i hear this is caused by napa re-man axles. :banana: sorry, i couldn't resist.

the brake shoes for hand brake on rear disc brakes are entirely different from the brake shoes for rear drums. they will likely fit any ej rear drum brake setup. sell them.

not common, but not unusual either. they say it's not an indicator of imminent engine failure. in other words, it's noisy, but not deadly. search slap and read up on it. this link taught me a lot: http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm

there are 2 wires on a starter, a BIG one that's always hot and comes directly from the battery positive post and a small one that only has power when the key is turned to start. which one are you talking about? i looked at the legacy wiring diagram in my haynes manual and the power in the small wire, the solenoid, runs from: battery fusible link slow blow fues ignition switch auto trans inhibitor switch starter solenoid i don't know if the 12 volts at the soleniod means the relay will not help, but the relay, and fused wire and misc, connectors cost ~10.00$. the starter contacts cost about 12.00, i think, if you get them online. you can do the relay today, and see if it works. if not, order the contacts. do you still have the remote start device. i would think, if you put the key in the on/run position (car in park, brake on) and then activate the remote and it starts, then the relay should help. try it.

sorry, i'm 5 hours away.