johnceggleston

the only practical difference might be the clutch, cable vs. hydraulic. as for the gears, you should be good. seach for 'trannychart' to confirm.

on my first time i was ignorant and thought i needed a puller, so i borrowed one from auto zone, threaded the 2 holes in the pulley, and off it came. no banging or prying or breaking any thing. second time it came off in my hand. i envy the guys who get to work on their cars in a completely stocked shop with a lift. think of all the time and brain cells you could save by not having to figure out the right order for jacking and blocking needed to get the car in just the right position. or not having to search for a pipe large enough to fit over your breaker bar handle or where your wife moved it when you left it lying in the yard. sure, it looks like trash, but it's really my 'special tool'.

FYI: added note, if you use a trans other than your model, outback, your speedo will be off 3 - 5%.

did you just replace the belt? has it run since the t-belt change? i can't remember.

needless to say, take the good one with you to match up.

yes

ditto

i doubt it will help, but you might try a $6 bottle of trans-x a/t fluid additive. it helps the 'slow engage' on the 99 auto trans, but that is usually a seal leaking problem. your trans is probably on the way out. you can use any auto trans from a 2.5L legacy, (outback, gt, lsi) 96 - 98 (a few, very very very few, 99s) as long as the trans part number starts with TZ102Z2........ it will work and match your rear differiential. good luck. http://www.car-part.com

5 for $2.50, 10 for $5.00, plus shipping. lots available. let me know. john

i vote for plug wires. use only subaru wires, buy them on line. they are easy to do. they cost about 40$ plus shipping. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=10387

typically, 96 - 99 2.5L engines were prone to internal head gasket leaks, 1200 - -1800 repair. and 2000 - 03? were prone to external hg leaks. same repair cost. if you see bubbles, i wouldn't buy it at any price without new head gaskets. or you might try to negotiate your best deal as is and then ask for a "head gasket / over heating warranty for 90 days. but this only benefits you if you drive it on some trips and test the head gaskets in the first 90 days. if the leak is small enough, it may drive around town fine for months. better to just have them replaced before you buy. but work out a price for the car before you discuss the gaskets. spring it on him late in the discussion. if he knows they are bad he may balk, if not he'll know the car is worth less than if it was in good working order.

another place to look might be the auto trans repair shops. they swap out bad trans all the time. but it might be hard to find one that has a subaru trans. but, i think you can get all the parts for around 200 online.

my wife took hers in for an inspection and she got the same thing, needs rear brakes, front rotors and p/s belt. i called them and b*tched, then i go in and inspect the car with them. well once it was all said and done, it only needed front rotors, and they gave them to me for free, with pads, to keep me from calling the state and reporting them. i love free. i also love winning an argument.

for a duty c and 2 gaskets, i paid less than 100$, maybe less than 90, at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html call or email jamie.

great pictures, take some of the under side and post them. it may help diagnose the problem. take a lot. is oil dripping off the front bottom of the engine?

there was a thread on this recently, and from that: let's be clear, ABS was not designed to stop you faster, not on dry pavement, not on wet or icy pavement. it was designed to give you steering ability in slippery / brake lock up situations. if you can do that without the computer so be it. but i would ask these questions: can a 16 year old new driver do it without the computer. can you do it without the computer if you have had 2 beers? how about 4? these cars a designed for the multitude of average (and below average) drivers, not the relatively small percentage of above average drivers. it's my car and i can adjust it as i see fit. now, my abs kicks in only occasionally, why does the op's kick enough to annoy him? anyway, mine kicks so rarely, i just don't care. each to his own.

i recntly swapped a 96 leg L speedo into a 97 leg GT. what surprised me was that the housing that the guages are mounted in has a space in the back for lights to indicate which gear the auto trans is in. these lights were standard in 90 - 94 i think and done away with in 95. so to make a short answer long, the housings are the same (early 90s vs. late 90s), connections on the outer edges are the same, and so my guess is yes, it will work. there would be no reason for lhd and rhd to be different.

don't-touch, you may know a lot about cars and just be new to subarus and i don't mean to question your knowledge or ability, but you'll get lot's more helpful info here if you tell us what are you working on and why you want to know where they are. what are you trying to fix / correct. what problem are you having? besides, we like solving problems. if it helps any, ej18 and ej22 are almost the same engine.

the rear slide pins is probably inch pounds. don't know about the rest.

1996 - 99 legacys i used to think that the TCU was programmed to convert wheel revolution speed into mph for the speedo and wheel revolutions into miles for the odo, but this is wrong. the speedo is designed to read the info directly from the speed sensor. i don't yet know if there is any TCU invlovement in converting wheel revolutions into odo miles, i think there is, but i've been wrong before and unless there is a really good other reason to send the info through the TCU i doubt it does. i just put a 96 leg L speedo in a 97 leg GT and there is a substantial error (about 1 mph error for every 6 mph of actual speed). the final drives are different and i assume therefore that the speedo drive gears are different, even though the tire diameter difference is about 1/2 of 1%. has anyone measured the speedo error in a 2.2L car that has a 2.5L trans (in other words when you swapped the trans you got the wrong one and swapped the rear diff as well.)?? as stated above, tire size will mess with your speedo and there is no way yet discovered to 'recalibrate' the speedo.

slightly off topic and maybe unnecessary: since you can't see the crank timing hash mark with the timing cover and crank pulley in place, maybe it would make sense, whenever you have one apart, to paint a 'timing' mark on the crank pulley, 180* away from the keyway so you could see it at a glance. just a thought.

search trannychart and you'll find which trans are exactly likle yours. as long as the final drive ratio is correct it will work. as far as the type of clutch, the trans case has the acommodation for either, you just have to move the fork and swap the parts to the new trans. or some thing like that. search for a post telling about this, it has pics. maybe by grossgary?

check to see if the cams sprockets are different, if so swap them.

i dreamed about this, i even found a late 80s d/r 5spd wagon with an ea-ej adapter plate installed, no engine, for 500$. but i decided i'd settle for my 97 obw a/t with a 4wd lock switch, and if i need a low range for off road i'd buy one, cheap.....?

this site may help: http://opposedforces.com/parts/ i'm not sure the ej20t was ever offered in the us market.