johnceggleston

onlineparts, dealer oem parts cheaper, but you either have to plan ahead or wait. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Exhaust%2C+Front+Pipe&year=1999 https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html

i have had some luck turning the engine by hand while feeding the belt on. on a side note, when i did my engine swap i failed to tighten the alt/ps belt enough. it would squeal at start up and tight turns. i finally thigtened it , but now, 3 months later it has an occasional squeal. i'm a little scared of making it too tight. (i have an alt on the shelf because the threads in the body stripped.) any one have a rule of thumb for how tight to make it???

i found this by accident: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/1272204204.html

to the op, there is a small chance that the valves are not bent which is the usual damage for broken t-belt on a 97 - 99 ej22. but you'd have to hang a new belt to see, plus replace any damaged idlers, tensioners, or water pump. but with that many miles, a replacement is your best choice. you might get lucky and fine a 95 ej22 from an auto trans car, it would be non-interference and bolt right in.

2 thoughts, soak it, soak it, soak it, soak it, soak it, soak it, with pb blaster. make sure you are going in the right direction, if you were pushing down on the first side you have to lift up on the second side, or vice versa.

thanks gg,i forgot the flex plate bolts. the long bolt holding on the starter goes through the starter bracket, through the trans bell housing and threads into the engine block. save this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=converter

IIRC, there are 4 bolts engine to trans left top and bottom and right top and bottom. there is the dog bone up top right behind the throttle body and there is a rear trans mount/ support. plus wires and shifter cable. the driver side lower trans bolt is a b**ch. no easy way, you just keep at it. driver side top, you remove the starter, one of those is a trans bolt the other is a nut on a stud. but the starter must be removed, i think. i don't really remember the passenger side so i assume they aren't too hard to get to. dogbone is easy, but with it and the trans gone, the engine may want to flop around a bit, so be careful. i usually pull the engine not the trans. the rear trans mount, i removed the 2 bolts on the cross member leaving it attached to the trans just cause it was easier to get to. there may be more i'm missing, but this is what stands out in my mind. some one posted a pretty good write up on a trans jack / support / lifting type thing. you might look for that. careful not to dent the oil pan, it can damage the wires inside. this is an auto trans, right? please correct me if i'm wrong.

i like this one, it matches the symptoms of vacuum leak.

thanks for the pics. you're right, the timing belt looks dead on.

if you click on the part number it will give you a usage page for that part. then click on usage info and it will list the cars and years for that part.

no offense to dave, he's tackling a job most people would pay 600 - 800$ just for the r & r not to mention the repair, but this remids me of my first , and last, attempt to take apart an alarm clock. i got some things off, but got nowhere near the complete job, not to mention the repair. dave, slow down, do a lot of reading, spend 15$ on a haynes manual if you have not done that yet and search for the great trans removal descriptions that have been posted in the past. then read and re-read them until you know them. i usually have to hand write the descriptions for it to sink ino my brain. it makes for very slow going, but once i have it i can almost visualize it when i'm under the car. keep reading and asking, then take the good advice given and you will get there. just my opinion, no offense intended. i just hate doing things twice.

search : "trannychart"

stop, wait!!! maybe you need to replace the the HGs again, but that is useless until you figure out what is causing your problem. better to figure it out now than to do all the work again and still have problems. i'm no pro, but i think it would have to be a pretty odd situation that causes your problems, just because of an off brand head gasket. usually the off brand gaskets fail sooner, not fail imediately. but i could be wrong. if it is not the timing belt, what might it be?? what are the symtoms again, ok at speed, rough at idle??? if you are 110% sure the timing belt is right, (btw: posting pictures would help convince the rest of us), diagnose the problem from scratch, disregarding the belt. lot's of stuff gets undone when gaskets are replaced. maybe there are other things that could cause these problems. i recently remember a problem caused by a couple of vacuum hoses being swapped. what else might cause this this problem.??

look here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/ drill down for L, GT, and then LSi. then compare the part numbers.

IIRC it's 1+1/4 inch, but that's almost a guess. but before you undo that nut, which is 'staked', bent, if you undo the strut bolts that connect it to the hub assembly, you may not need to do the axle nut. the stru to hub bolts are not 'gross' tight bolts, spray them and use a 24" long 1/2" breaker bar. mark them before you remove them. flop the hub outward, pull the axel with it and slide the trans end of the axle off of the trans stub.

here's one write up, seach for axle replacement or trans removal and you will likely find others. http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CVBoot.htm

we all benefit from other peoples trial and error, 1/4 inch will get stuck in the hole and then you are just a stones throw from "fubar".

gary, please check the attached pic and tell me which parts, item numbers you are planning to replace to reduce your noise, 5/6, 7, 8, or 9. i'm trying to learn some basics about struts, thanks. part numbers found here: http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366494921102.png

i thought only one cam sprocket had the necessary "tabs" (reluctors) for the cam sensor. if so that sprocket can't be in the wrong place. it could ba a little off though. i don't know about the others.

i'm not sure i understand completely but..... two of the receiving buckles are bolted to the car in the same place making it easy to mix them up. and for reasons i don't understand, the middle seatbelt is different than the side seat belt so you have to make sure you are using the middle belt and receiver for the middle and the side ones for the sides. if you are missing a receiving buckle or a belt, look under the seat, it folds forward. reach in between the seat and the back and feel around for a pull loop. usually seatbelts will extend and retract as often as you want when you want, but some / all have a child seat safety feature built in, if you pull the belt out all of the way before you clip it, as it retracts it locks and will not extend again until it has retracted all the way or so. if you can release the clip from the ceiling? and let it retract all the way back in you should be able to pull it out again. i hope this helps.

if it was damaged it would probably be the viscous coupling, some times referred to as the center diff. it's replaceable. if you do need a trans, there may be a very slight difference in the 3rd gear for some years and models, but more likely the final drive ratio. search "trannychart" and use the number off of the bell housing at the starter and you can find matching trans from other years.

there should be a fuse holder marked FWD under the hood. on earlier legacys it was on the passenger side near the fire wall and wiper motor. at some point they moved into the fuse box i think. i don't know imprezas. any way put a fuse in there , any fuse, and see if the problem goes away. it will put your car in front wheel drive mode. you can use this to diagnose problems and when running on the spare. if the problem goes away it's torque bind caused by the transfer clutch in the rear extension housing of the trans. sesarch for torque bind and read up on it, it has been covered a lot.

yes, same head. before you pull the head, double check the timing belt and alignment marks. it may have jumped time. but your compression is so low i doubt it, maybe a valve.??

best choice, 96 - 98 outback second best, 96 - 98 legacy GT or LSi, the speedo will be slightly off. third best, 96 - 98 legacy L or LS, you will need the rear diff as well. in a nutshell, any trans from a lego 96 - 98 with a 2.5L engine will work fine. if it's from a 2.2L lego, you will need the rear diff too.

a lockksmith may be able to re-pin/ re-key the cylinder. the hard part is getting it out of the door. not brain surgery, but still a bit of a challenge. or buy a used matching door and ignition cylinders and replace both so one new key unlocks both. or buy a used cylinder and pay a locksmith to re-key to match yours. or don't tell any one it can be opened with a french fry. oops, too late.