johnceggleston

this is news to me, learn something new every day. i put a 96 trans in a 95 with no trouble at all. i don't remember the part numbers but every thing was a perfect match. and i know 96 and 98 are the same, lots of those swaps have been done. i guess early 95 was more of a 94. EDIT: did you check both connectors on the rear of the engine? one is for the trans and one is for the engine. sorry to be so dumb, but 99 was the first year i had ever heard of wiring change, but i don't do 90 - 94 stuff and i just trying to learn this right.. good luck

this doesn't make sense. double check the connectors again. i don't think they made any changes in between 95 and 98. it should be a plug and play with the rear diff.

you did notice that this thread is 4 years old, didn't you???

is there a web address for rock auto.??

dash, there is a good chance that the speedo will not be accurate after the swap. be careful until you know for sure. the speedo drive gears in the outback front diff are different than the the legacy so there will be an error. it may be very slight , but kids tend to push the limit and no body needs a speeding ticket.

very rarely is it the speedo it self, but just in case, i'd look for a used VSS2 either here or at a salvage yard.

part number?? i remember reading that you had to buy the whole side, and i was surprised when i found a part number for just the one piece.

just my opinion, i would get this engine running as perfect as practical before you make the swap. once swapped you will have a good idea of how it should run. hopefully you will be able to tell what problems were there before and what, if any, were caused by the swap. it may make things easier to diagnose.

there's a push button taped up in the wiring harness that goes to the 'receiver" box under the dash near the fuse box driver side. it may already be lose or mounted.

i think with a little research and a couple of phone calls you can find out for sure the gear and final drive ratios. i would not do it without confirmation. these 3 links seem to indicate it will work. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_28/automatic_transmission/at_transmission_assembly/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/31000AE330/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/31000AF780/

i think rust is like icebergs, you only see 10% of it, the rest is hidden.

i haven't used it on my subarus yet, but the Trans-x PS stop leak worked great in my wife's avalon. we used to have a puddle and needed to refil all the time now an occasion drip. i need to swap the pump, i already did the rack. what a pain!!

all oils today have detergents in them. i have read, here, that the best way to clean your engine inside is to change the oil more frequently, 1k instead of 3 or 2k instead of 5. this gives the detergents a chance to work before the oil starts to break down and leave stuff behind. i don't really know, any truth to this??

which, car, trans, miles.............??

this should be it. although i can't get the number to work on line. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/body_equipment_exterior/stripe/illustration_2/

if the damage bothers you take the money and get it fixed. if you can live with it, take the money and buy GT wheels.

play with, wiggle the door switch. does the 'door open' indicator on the dash light up when the driver door is open??

don't forget posting it here.

since ANYONE can make this mistake, i guess this means we should have even more sympathy and understanding for newbies who make it.

this sounds like head gaskets to me, but we're talking about an old ford right?

so, you removed the t-stat from the bottom of the engine and re-located it . in doing so did the coolant drain out of the radiator? did you re-use the same coolant or put in new? was the new coolant a 50/50 mix? maybe it was the coolant and not the t-stat location.

if the part numbers match, (except the last 3 charactures) then the final drives will match. in the 95 - 98 auto trans, the characture after the second Z indicates the final drive, a letter meant ej22 + 4.11 and a 2 meant ej25 + 4.44. by 2001 the ej22 was gone so everything was ej25 + 4.44 .

there's no way that engine will fail in the next 20k miles unless you run it without oil. i'd bet the price of the car on it, which is exactly what you are doing. it's a safe bet.

the only way to know for sure is to do a lot of research. or compare the numbers on the bell housings at the starter. if the numbers begin the same, something like TZ1A4ZM....... and only the last 3 letters are different then the trans will fit. all of these trans are the same, typically the last 3 letters refer to the model of car the trans was installed in. there are some TV1A4... trans for that time frame, avoid those, unless thats what you have. i read a wikipedia page recently that said basically the 4eat auto trans (made by jatco?) has been used by subaru since 1988 (loyale?) with very few changes. you just need to be sure it will bolt in, wiring connects and final drive matches. the part number match described above should make that happen. good luck and let us know how it goes. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_8/automatic_transmission/at_transmission_assembly/

the manual should read 100k miles or 100 months. the 2.5 is an interference engine, if your timing belt breaks, you will suffer valve damage or possibly more. read up on what other maintenance to do with the timing belt like seals, pulleys, water pump? invest 500 - 600$ now and drive for 100k trouble free miles.