johnceggleston

The original motor was a 2.5. '00 forester. The number from the tag on the fender well is TY755VC1AA. 1) Is this likely a 4.11 ratio? yes 2) If I am looking at Legacy transmissions will they have a number other then TY755VC1AA and still work? yes, but the trans type needs to match though, the TY755...... typically the last few charactures generally refer to the car it came from, outback vs. forester and maybe the final drive??. if you use a trans from a different model car the speedo may be off after the swap. (the speedo drive gears match the trans and stock tires. in the late 90s in the legacy GT line you could have 4.44 differential (outback) with legacy size tires. this may not be an issue with '00 - '04 cars) 2a) In other words does the same tranny have different #s if used in different vehicles? yes, but you have to match the final drive ratio. if manuals are like autos, all trans with TY755.... are the same except maybe the final drive ratio. if like autos, the 7th characture dictates the final drive ratio. i have no idea if this is the same for manual trans. once you find a trans you think will work, research the rear diff of each car and see if the part numbers are the same. 3) Legacy/Forester transmission from what year to year will work? The original motor was a 2.5. The number from the tag on the fender well is TY755VC1AA. research here: http://opposedforces.com/parts 4) If I haven't already, I now expose my ignorance. What is USRM? ultimate subaru repair manual, there is a thread full of repair tips, pics and other helpfull stuff. just like the is a thread that specializes in old gen stuff or new gen stuff. and often it's a sticky, meaning it's always stuck at the top of the list. i just read a thread today about 2.5 engines and what year each model subaru went to the phase 2 engine. the phase 2? trans (TY755...) is similar when you ask about trans part numbers. some changed one year and some changed the next. but you only have a couple of things to worry about, final drive ratio and clutch type. but since, i think, all subaru went hydraulic in the late 90s, that may not be an issue. at some point they change the number of bell housing bolts but all TY755Y... are the same in that regard. i think TY755.... is after that change. corrections welcome. .

there was a bent pan post last year in which the car had torque bind. the wire to the duty c solenoid had been pinched by the bent pan and damaged. it caused the duty c to fail in the 4wd locked condition causing binding. it is possible that you have damaged either a wire or a solenoid which commands the shift to second. i wouldn't assume at this point that the trans is bad. it maybe but maybe not. does the 'AT Temp' light on the dash flash 16 times at start up??

the part number on your trans bell housing at the starter is TZ102Z2DBA. the ...DBA was used in 98 outbacks and a very few 99s, not many. the ..CBA was used in 97 outbacks, and the ....ABA was used in 96 outbacks. you can use any auto trans that has the part number on it starting with "TZ102Z2" all of these are the same in the outback, GT and LSi (except the speedo drive gear) . the last 3 charactures in the number indicate what year or version it is and what car it was installed in (AA is legacy, BA is outback and CA is GT. the AA, BA, CA also indacte the speedo drive gear you have, they are all slightly different based on the stock tires). i deally you gae an outback trans, there are lots more of them than the others, but you can use a GT or LSi trans if you find a deal. basically any trans will work 96 - 98 as long as it comes out of a 2.5L car. they had a different final drive than the 2.2L legacy. hope this helps.

is it possible that the bolts holding the brake components on to the hub bolt through the backing plate??

it looks like it bolts on to the hub from the outside with 4 bolts? might be easier to buy a used hub and swap the brakes, maybe not. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_1/brake_system/rear_brake/illustration_1/

that's the tone ring for the ABS sensor.

i'm a little lost. you put the 03 ej25 into the 99 ej22 car and it would not run, you compared the cam sprockets and found them to b the same, swapped the intake from the ej22 onto the ej25 block and now it runs???? is this correct????? also, the pics are deceptive since it looks like both cams are off. more info please, what did you do to correct the problem? what intake is on the ej25 you installed in your 99 2.2L car?? nice pics by the way. and kudos for even attempting this.

if it is is a manual trans from a 2.5Lengine car, it is a 4.11 final drive. final drives from 2.2L manual cars were 3.9. you can't go wrong if you stick to 2.5L trans close to your year.

in general these cars start fine with everything on, they are designed to. if you have a starting problem it is not simply because you have everything on. it's something else. turning things off before you start the car may get you home but it is not a long term solution to a starting problem.

+1, what he said. but it's 16 not 13, if any one is counting.

and a piece of newspaper, works great on house windows, as long as you do not smudge the white paint.

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there was a slight change from in there some where. they added a security / safety bolt to the rear door jamb, i think for added safety during a crash. i'm not sure what year it was added. so all doors are the same but some door jambs are different. if your car has the 'extra bolt' (it's pretty obvious, big round bolt head on the curved part of the rear door jamb about 8-10" below the door latch) the door needs to match it or you have to remove it. i do not recomend removing safety equipment from your car. it's not safe or smart.

it's a little like your weight. if you have been gaining 2-3 pounds a year for the last 10 years and now you can't touch your toes then an exercise program may be in order. but if you can still wear the suit you got married in then, well, no problem. if the car starts, then all is good. if it doesn't, well then maybe you need to to start an exercise program. .

if you bolted it together and it still leaked, i don't really know. but i have read post where people have just used regular bolts and tightened it up. when i did my ej22 swap, i could not get the second bolt threads to grab, so i bought a longer bolt with out the 'special' shoulder and bolted it up using an extra nut and washer and the original spring to re-create the intended design. the springs are intended to create a flexible seal??????

build date 1/97 is a MY97. mid year 97 build date, june or july, would be a 98 model year. is this model year the change date?

i'm not sure , but i think, when you turn the key to start, it disconnects everything else. my power antenna even starts to retract.

if you are replacing the oil pan and the sperator plate on the back of the engine, pull the engine. it's easier than the trans. the seperator plate is on the back of the engine behind the flywheel / flex plate. some are plastic and leak over time. the replacement part is metal ~35$ and solves the leak. make sure you buy the new screws (5 of one and 1 of another) to go with the new plate, the old screws will not work.if you search here you can find a great pic and part numbers. ps: i think 2.5 oil pan will fit a 2.2 engine and then use slightly more oil. nothing wrong with a 2.2 oil pan, but 2.5 may be younger. what are you putting it on??

my guess is new, but i don't know when they changed exactly. i didn't think they used the old style on the 2.5L engine.

it fits into the under side of the air tube. let us know if that doesn't fix it. you are quite welcome.

it's probably a vacuum hose. look under the air intake tube, big 4" black tube , about half way between the air filter and the 'air box' at the rear of the engine. the hose will slip off when the air filter box is opened and cause the car not to run / idle correctly. _ _it happens. you alternator may not have been bad, but who knows.

the miles plus cost is very attractive, 34,000 plus 10000.0 = 134. by my standard the is the same as a subaru with o miles for $13,400 or a car with 100k miles for $3,400. the bigger question is affordability. does it fit your budget.? and this car even with only 34k miles is going to need a timing belt soon, around 2012. the t-belt schedule is 105k miles or 105 months. the cost of the t-belt will range from 500 - 1000 depending where you live and how much you do. this engine, any 2.5L and any 2.2L '97 - '01, will have expensive damage if the timing belt breaks. personally i'm crazy about the 95 or 96 legacy for a reliable high mileage used car. and if you only drive 4000 miles a year, a 95 with 180k will last you a very long time. it's not bad looking, the engine is non-interference (no damage if the belt breaks) and as mentioned before, parts are readily available. but you will have to add some repair cost to the purchase of what ever used car you buy. almost none will be in perfect working order. i read an article in AARP magazine recently which made 2 great points, maintaining the car you have is almost always cheaper than buying "new". and, the average age of a car in america today is 9.3 years. mine (90, 97, & 95) are on the high side, but there must be some really old cars out there. if your dodge is still serving you well you can take your time and wait for a great deal to come along that fits your budget. good luck and let us know what you do.

please oh-wise-one, where do you go to pull your own parts? they don't do that near here, at least i don't know where they let you.

point of order, is it liter or litre?

technically it's a 60 liter tank.