johnceggleston

how big are they??

www.car-part.com put in your zip and sort by distance and then pick your style. steelies should be pretty cheap. late 90s had 14" steel, early 00s had 15" steels

no, no, no! it's like a sack vs a bag.

any chance you have a JDM replacement trans? i think they are backwards, meaning they fail in the no rear wheel drive. i have read that you put the fuse in to "lock" 4WD, which would cause binding.

this sounds like an inline trans fluid filter. these were an add-on in the early 90s, i think. and done away with by the mid 90s. by 99 thay designed them back into the auto trans by having the thread onto the side of the trans housing. does your shudder occur while decelerating as well???

yes it is common on just one cylinder, and no it is not an indicator of a warped head. it will not go away with new head gaskets and head work. it is not an indicator of future engine failure. it is a side effect of shortened and lightened piston skirts which 'slap' around in the cylinder. i have been driving a 97 outbak for 30k miles with 'the slap'. it should only be a concern if you are going to resell the car. it it hard to convince folks/buyers that it is not serious. regarding the download site; if you have a haynes manual and do a fair amount of research here before you start i don't think you will need to download. just search and read. if you have trouble, ask and search and read. the haynes manual, even with it's limitations gives you a hands on security blanket, researching the process here before you start will give you the details and the general info you need. there are info updates that are not in the haynes manual. just my opinion. of course it never hurts to have an official service manual.

also, i'd disconnect the battery overnight to reset the ECU and see how long it takes and which codes come back. the 0420 probably will, but may take a day, depending on how much you drive. if the knock sensor is bad i would expect it to come back right away, unless it needs a certain type of driving.

change out you fluid, drive it, drain and re-fill, drive it. do it 3 or 4 more times (you have already done it once), it can act like a detergent to help 'clean' any gummed up works. fluid is not free, but compared to the duty c it's pretty cheap.

there is a chance that several drain and fills of the ATF will help. call you mechanic and see if he has your old trans. that rear housing will swap in , no problem. the trans doesn't even have to come out of the car. i ASSUME you do not have a flashing AT Temp light at start up.

i have no idea what the C7 refers to, but in mixing and matching trans here for several years, i have never seen the 2 last letters make a difference, if the 10 digits match, the trans match. maybe with the 95s it refers to the month?? i even went and cjecked my trans list and the ...AAAA is a 95, ...ABAA is 96, i didn't have a number for 94 but i'll look at http://www.car-part.com . do the diff check. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, be very careful while doing this. you don't want the car to drop while in gear with the engine running and run over anyone. if it is just regular torque bind, you can use the rear extention housing off of you old trans and swap it in, assuming it was ok. call the mechanic who did the swap in the morning and ask him to hold it in case you need it.

i was doing my wakl around on my trailer the other morning, in the dark. i noticed the right turn signal was not working. i thumped it and it came on. yea!!!! the next day it would not come on even when i thumped. lights happen and then they don't. old joke: how many Californians dose it take to screw in a light bulb??? none, Californians don't screw in light bulbs, they screw in hot tubs.

i don't think it will matter with the connector undone, but go ahead and pull the fuse. driving it before hand does not matter. by disconnecting the wiring to the trans it "locks" the trans in 4WD and with the car in neutral, when you turn one wheel by hand, the other should be "locked" to it and turn the exact same number of turns. the trans numbers are a match, but you have left out an "A" on the end. the actual number is TZ102ZAAAA. unless some one swapped out the trans and rear diff with a 3.9 before you got the car. it is a post 6/95 manf date trans. it has the 4.11 final drive. you can confirm the manf date on the b column between the front and rear doors, driver side, there should be a sticker. i don't think you have to do the diff check since the trans numbers match. it sounds like just regular old torque bind. is there a flashing light on the dash at start up?? a flashing AToil temp light may indicate a bad duty c solenoid in the transfer clutch for the rear wheels. if no light your first fix is a fluid swap, several actually. you can do it your self, just like an oil change, or pay to have it flushed.

there is a 6/95 manufacture date cutoff date for transmissions. trans auto trans after are 4.11, auto trans up thru 6/95 are reported to be 3.9. there is a test for checking if the front and rear diffs match: jack up both wheels on one side of the car and put it on jack stands. unplug the large trans elect. connector at the rear of the engine on top where it meets the trans. start the car and move the trans shift selector to neutral. (parking brake off) mark the 6 oclock position of the front and rear tires that are in the air. turn one of the tires by hand 4 or 5 rotations. the marks should end up in the same position. when you undo all of this don't forget to plug in the electrical connection. if the car was only binding in turns, it is probably not mis-match diffs. it is probably just torquebind. it there a flashing light on the dash at start up, "power" or "AT oil Temp" maybe.

i'm not sure i'd put too much value in the oil being "fuller" unless you had a routine habit of always checking it and adding if neede before you drove it every day. if your loses oil and you check it too soon after you turn it off, it may seem low and then you add oil, when in fact it was fine. the next time you check it it may appear ''fuller". watch it closely, check it every day in the same location and the same time. when in doubt, change it out.

i hope you got your wood in.

get pat numbers here: (this is for the 95 legacy you will have to look around for other years) http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_1/ and here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_2/ then i'd call jamie at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com . or http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ or http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ but until you have taken it a part, you may not know what you need.

if putting the fuse in relieves the problem, there is a good chance that a fluid change will help. there are only a few causes of transfer clutch trouble (binding or no 4WD) : bad duty c solenoid - (binding) gummed up plates or fluid passages, from dirty fluid - (binding). burned up plates, ( i think this causes no 4 wheel drive, not sure?) wear marks on the drums, grooves cut by wear. (i'm not as familiar with this, i'm pretty sure it can cause slow to engage but it maybe can cause binding.) if you change your fluid a lot already doing so now may not help. but lots of people don't ever change the ATF, it can be an expensive mistake. you can leave it in FWD, until the duty c fails. no telling how long that will take. at that point you can remove the rear section of the drive shaft. you will have to leave the front section of drive shaft in place or the fluid will spill out of the rear of the trans. i have a 95 that has been 'shaftless' for over 20k miles... nice FWD car.

it sounds like torque bind. if the fuse relieves the problem, a fluid change or several, may help. you can drive at hiway speeds with the fuse in but the fuse was designed for diagnostic purposes. long term it is not the solution. this is a 1000$ fix at the dealer, here in the US anyway. search "torque bind" and read up. there are tons of threads, including some on fix it yourself.

for the money you are going to spend on this engine, you could probably get a used engine. of course you could be buying someone else's headache, but there are millions? of these engines around. at 244k, how long do you expect this engine to last, another 100k? if it were mine, i'd probably drive it a while longer until it quits or threatens to, and then swap the engine. but if you do rebuild it, let us know when you reach 500k.

the last time i was at merchant tire and mentioned this subject, the mgr responded that they did not do it because they were very hard if not impossible to balance and align. i just assumed that they did not have the needed equipment to do the job and were justifying their inability with a lame excuse. besides, sell and shave one tire versus selling 4, what would a sales manager recommend. call around, you may find what you need.

the dealer should have both plate and screws, (one screw is different - it comes with locktite or sealant on it) but it will becheaper online. if you have not done subaru rear seals please heed this advice. there is more than one poster out there that had to pull the engine twice because they replaced the rear seal. typically, they do not leak. i have heard that they are installed when the 2 engine block halves are bolted together, not pushed in from the rear after they are bolted together. this does not mean it can not be done , but if it is not leaking, why chance it. others who have done it successfully will advise you on how to.

don't replace the rear main seal, unless there is over whelming evidence , after you have pulled the engine, that it is leaking. usually the oil leak on the rear of the engine is the oil seperator plate, not the rear main seal. if you replace the rear main seal, there is a very high likleyhood that it WILL leak in the very near future. lots of subaru engines were sold with plastic seperator plates on the rear of the engine, behind the flywheel / flexplate. replace the leaking plate , even if it is metal, with a new one AND NEW SCREWS use RTV to seal. pull the oil pump and replace the o-ring behind it and double check the screws on the back plate. sometimes they loosen up and cause leaks. no new parts required (except the o-ring), just make sure they are tight (maybe with locktite).

yea doc, throw in warm food and cold drink, and i'll drive up and help.

if you have only one odd size tire you are better off putting in the fuse to prevent trans / transfer clutch damage. but i wouldn't plan on driving that way until you wear out the 3 good tires, the duty c probably will make it that long but it may not. if you have 2 pairs of matching tires, they match each other but not the other pair, then put them on different sides of the car and leave the fuse out. you'll have 4wd and you will be able to determine if the binding you feel is internal or caused by the odd tire. the open diffs will allow for the different size tires side to side, but noting will allow for different size front to rear except the fuse. if it has been run with an odd size for very long it may have caused some damage. usually torque bind is caused by not changing the ATF or from the duty-c solenoid failing or by mis-matched tires. if you have to, you can pull the rear section of the drive shaft, but then it's only front wheel drive. put the fuse in until you buy a pair of tires, and buy them before it snows.

there is lots of info here on torque bind if you search for it. with 2 new and 2 old tires you are better off running both new ones one on the same side of the car. long term use of the FWD fuse may cause the duty solenoid to wear out early. good luck.