johnceggleston

if you search for threads on this subject you will find some posts with pictures showing the various combinations of socket, extentions, ratchests, swivels, etc that folks have used to get to #4. and of course oem plugs, you want a very long change interval. .

if you check out these links to www.subarupartsforyou.com you will see that the old style was used 90 - 97 2.2L and 96 - 98 GT w/ 2.5L . 2.2L old style tensioner 2.5L old style tensioner (same part same part number, if you read the part description it list the years it fits.) now this means it can also be used on outbacks 96 - 98 since they used the same block as the GT, but another page seems to show that outbacks 96 - 09 used the ''new style''. 2.2L & 2.5L new style tensioner 96 - 09 - (vin required for 96 - 98) so the new style can be used on the 96 - 98 2.5 blocks, and probably on the 2.2 blocks but why? the 96 - 98 blocks can use either tentioner?. i have never looked at a phase 2 block so some one else will have to chime in. .

the seal kit, belt, idlers, water pump and seals, is about 190$ (2.2L any way), look at their other items for sale. you can call them, they will sell what you need.

the haed gaskets have to come from subaru, you can get them for less online, but it has to be a subaru part. the seperator plate is on the back of the engine block, behind the fly wheel (flex plate if an auto trans). some years they were made of plastic and over time will leak pretty bad, so any time the engine is out you check it. if you have an auto trans, be sure to search and read the "torgueconverter" threads, seating it correctly is very important in prevent the destruction of your trans.. also read up on the timing belt threads linked below, it will save you some head aches.

the 2.5L pan is larger, but i here it is interchangeable with the 2.2L pan. i would not use the smaller pan on the 2.5, less oil, but using the larger one on the 2.2 is probably ok.

you behave or mom will send you to your garage with out any off roading or any used parts.

is the vacuum hose to the brake booster a good one to use??

if i can do it.... it not that hard, make sure to use the correct crank sprocket timing mark. when you are using the correct one, the crank sprocket keyway will be down in the 6 o'clock position. dual cams are a little trickier, but i don't think the '01 legacy has dual cams. see link below.

just because it is AWD and you can not get the front wheels to spin on dry pavement does not mean you can not spin the rear wheels. you can, if all 4 are spinning, especially on snow or ice. slow down and take it easy until you get the feel for how much you can push it. spinning the wheels, especially the rears, will get the rear squirrelly in turns or on side slopes. enjoy!!!!!!!!

thanks gary, this is the wisdom i was looking for. i'm not opposed to trying, unless an ignorant failure on my part prevents any other attempts. the challenge of the broken bolt is not as threatening as the task of re-assembling an engine that has parts on the back seat, the floor of the back seat, the floor of the front seat and the trunk, since i have never done head gaskets before. and i do not see the coffee can full of "all the bolts and nuts" that i usually have when i pull parts off of a car. the way i work it will feel like a jigsaw puzzle. i may swap for now just to get the car running and then work on the engine in my leisure. there's always a place for a non-interference engine with new gaskets and timing belt. if i get the engine i saw today, i'll have less than $600 in both the car and engine. of course, i don't think i will be able to resist a new t-belt and seals, not to mention the seperator plate, so all of that adds. thanks for the help.

i just picked up a 96 legacy 2.2L auto w/ 139k miles. the previous owner was in the process of replacing the head gaskets, in the car, when the center top bolt on the driver side snapped. history: (as it was told to me) they got the car in feb of this year, and drove it for a few months (less than 1k miles). it over heated and they replaced the radiator. it over heated again and someone diagnosed bad head gaskets. the son opened it up and as he was putting the first head on he snapped a bolt. i think he crossed threaded it. is it practical to try and remove the 1/2" stub of a bolt and then re-assemble the engine or should i just pick up a good used 2.2L w/ 125k and go from there? the body is in good shape, interior is dirty, driver seat is worn out, tires should pass but not by a whole lot. trans, awd, brakes and bearings are reported to be good. axles are new. let me know what you think. thanks, john

use the search function here to search "cars101", you'll get more results than you can count.

it seems to me, in these economic times that it is a buyers market. it's good to negotiate with the subaru dealer bt takling about the honda, but why not talk to another subaru dealer? email several with your needs, ask for quotes. i think onsite cars a cheaper. you might also look at the swap a lease web sites, unfortunately there are probably a few subaru lease holders who have lost their jobs. some one wants to make a deal. edit: just read an article in today's paper about car leasing. (AP article) http://www.leasecompare.com http://www.leasetrader.com

the one on my 97 gt was so tough, i had to take it to a machine shop. i expected them to use their press, but they had a big puller that worked. i stripped the one i rented / borrowed from autozone. i beleived at this point i'd be buying a used knuckle, etc.

if they put ATF in the diff, what did they put in the trans?????? hopefully something fluid.

for the longest time i have been a member of the "it's the o2 sensor, dummy" crowd. there seems to be good evidence to support that school of thought. folks with a p0420 replace the front o2 sensor and the problem goes away. but of course there are those who SWEAR that it is the cat and it should be changed out. and there are those who have replaced the o2 and the problem persist. i guess it is possible that neither the cat nor the o2 sensor work as well as they did when new and that replacing either one improves the over all performance (in some cases) which eliminates the code. just a thought, but sensors are 100$ and cats are several hundred more, i'm staying with the o2 crowd for now.

only of you do not have torque bind on the road with the fuse in. keep the hand brake on. you don't want the rear wheels to grab suddenly and try to drive away.

the primary issue for setting a new carrier bearing is position. the fsm describes it being done with the diff off of the trans, auto any way, and then attaching the diff to the trans to test how the ring gear and pinion gear teeth mesh. apparently it can take several tries to get right. once the you have it right you can bolt the 2 together and move on. when replacing the bearings, if you count the number of turns when removing the keepers so you can put it back together EACTLY the way it was and if you do one side at a time you have a real good chance of not screwing it up. the way you have done it sounds pretty good to me considering what you had too work with, but only time will tell. but if you didn't move the diff while the seal was out you have a shot. there are only 3 possibilities, too tight, too loose, or just right.

is this the code you get when the gas tank filler neck has holes rusted through?? that's pretty common in some parts of the country, the rust belt.

if you unplug the connector to the trans, it should drive in limp mode, 3rd gear only and locked in 4wd w/ torque bind. i have never worked on a 90 - 94 and i just assumed all of the FWD fuse holders were in the same place until they moved them to the fuse box under the hood around 99 or 00 maybe. i don't remember when , but they did move it. another thought, any chance it was a FWD car that was converted to AWD?

auto or manual? is the drive shaft to the rear wheels in place? sorry to be so simple, but sometimes cars are bought based on assumptions or suggestions.

there are various products out there to reduce / prevent the corrosion. i use one by CRC i think, comes in a spray can like paint has a slight tint to it and works pretty good. i didn't really expect it to but it has.

me too. when i did my 2.2 swap i called them because the 'ebay' kit didn't have exactly what i wanted. they put together the right parts for me and shipped it quickly. i didn't study on the price to see if it was equal to the 'ebay' special, but i think it was and i got what i needed. belt all idlers water pump & metal gasket all front seals (except the oil pump o-ring) valve cover gaskets and bolt seals / gromets. i forgot to ask for the exhaust gaskets and the local parts stores didn't carry the single port gaskets so i went to the dealer. i also ended up needing the exhaust donut at the flex joint which i got at the dealer. i should have ordered them with the seperater plate and t-stat from online dealer. next time i'll know.

95, 97, and 98 all have the same exhaust, only 96 is the odd duck. but 95 is non-interference, that is a plus.

google trailer hitches, i think 'etrailer' is one site.