johnceggleston

sounds good, check back in after a while and let us know how it is going.

some of the hoses, emissions, may be posted on the hood. at least one of the right side head hose goes to the PCV valve. do you know any one with a similar year legacy to compare? i always keep an extra one around for just this purpose. my wife even thinks it is a good idea. she really hates an empty drive way.

don't pay until it is delivered in the same condition as when you test drove it. or re-negotiate the price if it is damaged.

what if it was a flex plate bolt? i would have thought the dealer would have checked, but...... could a rock or piece of gravel gotten thrown up into the bell housing? .

the only other thing to consider is how long before you have to open it up again. at some point the t-belt interval for 2.2L engines went from 60k to 105k. considering the wobble, you might think about completely doing everything inside, t-belt (california spec 105k), all idlers, water pump, all seals including the oil pump. then when you bolt it back up you will not have to go in again for 100k miles. it will cost more but there is a good chance it's the last time you have to mess with it. if the belt or any of the idlers are not 100% you could be looking at more work in 40k miles or so. or if the last belt changer over looked anything besides the torque spec for the crank bolt you could have a headache in 10k miles.

fix it, do not delay. you will not know what you need until you take it apart. all of the 90s cars share the same crank sprocket, i think. if i'm wrong ..... some one correct me.

the visable pulley wobble is the result of the crank bolt being too loose and over time the keyway on the crank and / or the pulley wallow out. over time it will effect the crank sprocket behind the pulley / timing cover. if you catch it early , yes replace the boogered parts and reassemble and torque to spec. but the longer it 'wallows' the more damage. if the crank keyway gets too bad your timing will be off and it may quit running. my 93 just die one night, but it got glued back together with everything timing related replaced. my ''glue master'' said it was the last time it was ever coming apart. he was right, i wrecked it 12 months later. gluing is not a good solution. 50 miles isn't far in the life of a car. if the timing belt / crank bolt was just done then i wouldn't risk it. on the other hand if it has been getting worse over 20k miles i might. but i'd still put a wrench on it first. it can't hurt.

ther are 3 or 4 2.2L cars, 90 - 95? with bad head gaskets for sale on craigslist right now, in VA, MD, NC, maybe as many as 6. some with 200k and some with 125k miles. of course i only have the sellers word for bad head gaskets. it wouldn't surprise me to learn that some overheating 2.2s actually have a clog radiator but are diagnosed with HGs because of all of the 2.5 problems. but i'm not going to buy one just to find out and i bet most if not all are bad HGs.

the crank bolt could give up at any moment, you can never tell. but if you tighten it before you drive it you will have a better chance of making it home. how long has it been this way? how long since the crank bolt last removed / installed? how does the car run? how many miles? i had one that failed and another that i caught before it failed. on the second one i just had the timing belt done, replaced the pulley and put it back together, ~600$, still driving it. it depends on how much damage. if yours fails on the way home you will have the added expense of a tow and replacing valves. that doesn't double the cost but it does add to it.

a while back swapped a 2.2L into an overheating 97 2.5L from a GT. i have just now bought a 98 outback with a busted cam sprocket / pulley, passenger side top cam, and of course bent valves. i do not know what caused the the cam sprocket to implode but i suspect it was an oil pressure? (seized cam) failure not a sprocket or belt failure. so i have 2 engines, one bad head gaskets / over heated and one belt / cam pulley failure. my idea for most economical rebuild is to ues the heads off of the over heated 97 with the short block off of the 98 bad belt. i do not have ant machine shop experience or pricing, but i assume non bent valves are cheaper than bent valves. 1. any good guess why a cam pulley would implode.? 2. any reason not to use the heads from one and the block from the other?? 3. the leftover parts, scrap? or worth the risk of re- construction, especially the 97 overheated block? it was running when i got it , but the PO had been dealing with the head gaskets for several thousand miles. thanks for any and all input. this is my new purchase: http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/1464734510.html

it will but you need to remove a QT? to make room the the trans x. if you drain and fill the trans fluid the same way you do the motor oil you will only drain out about 3.5 qts, not all 9 or 10 in the trans. so the cost difference between removing 1 qt or draining the pan is the cost of 2 - 3 qts of at fluid. and unlike motor oil, draining and refilling some of your fluid does improve the over all quality of the fluid in the trans. doing it periodically is one of the best things you can do for your auto trans.

ok, but for 10$ what have you got to loose. maybe the others don't work, but if i was running trans-x, either i'd be selling it in europe and asia or i'd be franchiseng with some else to do it. EDIT: try looking here, they make a stop leak / seal conditioner and are located in the UK. http://www.silverhook.co.uk/ http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/107691768/Automatic_Transmission_and_Power_Steering_Stop/showimage.html?pn=1&pt=10&newId=107691768&cids=null#breadcrumbs .

it is hard for me to imagine that some one isn;t making a similar product in europe. but i haven't even looked into it and others have. subarus, motor oil, atf, are all sold world wide, why not a seal repair / stop leak for auto trans. i'll bet transx has even looked into it and for what ever reason has chosen not too. but again, i have not looked into it so i don't know.

tapping the lug stud out of the hub isn't hard and using the lug nuts to pull it back in is easy too. the question is if you have enough room / clearence between the hub and the knuckle to get the old one out and the new one in. i watched a mechanic do it on my 95 lego, rear i think, he had to work it around but got it with out removing any thing else, maybe. matbe the tone ring had to come off, maybe.

drive shaft center support bearing??

you still need to check your coolant a lot. driving with your cooling system 'open' will boil off the water leaving the antifreeze behind. eventually you will end up with a very high concentration.

the heated seat wiring is in both of my 97s, GT and OBW, but i don't know about heated mirror wiring, i never looked for it. i also don't know about 96 obw or 99.

i'd be tempted to look again. more often than not, when installing heated seats, the connectors for the switches are obvious, but he seat connectors are hidden under the carpet since they are not used. more than once some one has said "they aren't there" only to find them later. maybe start at switch end to see if the wires are there. the 97 mirror switch is located on the mirror control / adjust, i'd start there. if the wires are not at the switch end then yes you will need the harness, if the wire are there, then you just need to find out how far they do go. good luck.

i thought you could lock them too.

my rule of thumb is: if it was offered as an option when the car was sold new, then it has the wires. 96 outback yes, 96 legacy no...... i'm still checking to confirm this, but i don't remember any heated seat (or mirror) wiring in my 96 legacy donor car.

i was closing un-needed windows and found this as part of the instruction for steel seal. this was the 3rd step , the first 2 were actual instructions on the installation procedure of the product. the lev-r-vent cap sounds like a good idea to help save coolant in overheating cars. quote If you notice bubbling in your radiator, we recommend using a Stant Lev-R-Vent radiator cap with the lever in the “up” position to relieve the pressure while the vehicle is running. After you turn the engine off you can place the lever in the “down” position. These caps can be purchased at many auto parts stores.

from the factory that is the best you can hope for and 50/50 is close and a really good guess. the problem is that if your AWD is slow to kick in without your input it is going to be slow to kick in with your input. it is not the computer control that makes it slow, it is the mechanics that are xteen years old, unless you anticipate your need for AWD. but there is a modification which will let you "lock" the trans in a 50/50 split 4WD. (when in 1, or 2 maybe, the system still allows for some slipping to prevent torque bind.) the mod "locks" it up, no slipping. search for: lock*, switch, awd* or something similar. it has been covered a lot and there are both pros and cons to the modification. leaving it on can cause damage.

final drive is irrelevant, the speedo gear is after that. the gear count is not so important, just pull the gear off of one trans and stick it in the other. i don't know which are the the same if either are, the drive gear or the driven gear. some one posted a 'pic' of the different ratios for the different legacys, but my searching has not found them. i think the driven gear is way easier to swap, since it comes out the same hole as the speed sensor, i think. the drive gear has to come out through the axle stub, diff bearing access do-dad thing-a-ma-gig on the side of the trans. be sure to record very precisely the number of turns it takes to open it up so you can re-install it the EXACT Same Way. as far as the 2.2 ECU goes, the 00 engine may be different and not run on the 96 ecu. there are a lot of differences.

there are only 2 ways i know to make the speedo work correctly, swap the speedo gear/s, i don't really know which one drive or driven. or change the tires to match the the trans, speedo gear. as far as the ecu, i'm not sure it matters, either one is going to be looking for the second speed sensor unless you have the correct pinout for a manual trans. the auto and manual ECUs are the same, but some how there is a pin groundes out ?? to let the computer know it is a manual. swapping an auto trans from a 96 lego to a 200 forester is not a common or easy thing to do . there is a change in the trans and the wiring harness around 99. i do not know if going to manul makes it doable or not. some one with auto to manual experience may know. .

90-99 the tone ring is only for the abs system. beyond 99 i don't know. i think at some point, some year, the tcu/ecu compares to the wheel speed but in the 90s they do not. the 90 - 99 autos have the speedo gear in the front diff and a rear speed sensor in the rear extension housing on the trans. it is a simple "magnetic" sensor like the crank sensor. it measures the revs of the output shaft to the rear wheels. the ECU / TCU, one or the other or both combined measure the speed difference and tell the trans when to send more output to the rear. manual trans do not have the rear speed sensor since the poewer transfer to the rear is through a viscous coupling or clutch? not an electronically controlled transfer clutch. tone rings are for the abs system not all cars in the early 90s have them. some of the early 90s cars have a speedo cable that runs from the front diff to the speedo and actully spins at the speedo. the computers then take their info from there.