johnceggleston

let's not forget that you are takling about the car company that refused to admit a design flaw in the 2.5L head gaskets. at least not enough of a flaw to recall them.

yes, the bottom one is a nut , it takes a 17mm socket. the top one is a bolt, it takes a 14mm socket. metric bolts and nuts are defined by several measurements diameter of the shaft, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm etc, and the threads, how coarse or fine, 1.00, or 1.25 for example. the threads of the nut are the same as the top bolt, either 1.00 or 1.25. the diameter of the nut MAY be the same as the bolt but it could be one step up or one step down. but the thread 'count' is the same. go to the hardware stoore and find a nut that fits the top bolt, then also get one size, read diameter, larger and one smaller. you probably won't need the smaller one, especially if one of the other 2 takes a 17mm socket. don't forget the washers, one flat and one lock type. three nuts and 6 washers may cost you 5 - 7$ but but should save you the time of making a second trip. oh yeah, about the time you get the new nut tightened up, you will no doubt find the old one.

one is a 14 and one is a 17, i think the nut is a 17, on the bottom.

take the top bolt with you, the threads will be the same. the diameter may be different, and of course the socket size is 17mm. get your best guess and then get one larger and one smaller. hopefully this will save you a second trip. maybe get a flat and lock washer as well.

when draining the trans you get about 4 of 9 qts of fluid. if you jack up the front of the car you can get more out. so if the TC tips it can spill fluid even after you drained the trans. i don't remember having this problem but who knows. if this is your first auto trans, there is a long shaft, 24"?, on the inside/back side of the TC. so it won't fall off, but it will tend to stay on the motor until you get about 1/2 - 3/4 inch of seperation, then it is clear and should stay put. you will want to read up on seating the 'torqueconverter' (search that). you do not want to run the risk of installing one incorrectly. and since you will have a bad one to practice on, take advantage of it. it is not really hard to do, you just need to know it has to be done. the above search string will give you great pics and a good how to.

thanks, the pics helped explain it. for some reason i had a picture in my mind of rectangular splines and i couldn't imagine how a triangle file fit or helped. glad you got it.

no wonder they invented the VLSD.

i don't mean to be dense here but how did you use the file, what did you clean up? how large a file did you use? thanks.

if you jack up both rear wheels and turn one by hand the other wheel will turn in the same direction if it has a lsd diff. if it is an open diff, non-lsd, the other wheel will turn in the opposite direction.

i too am clueless, but i read here not too long ago, and i believed it, that all sun roofs leak!!!! the reason they work is because they have a water disposal system in place to take care of the leaking water. everything leaks, roofs leak, pipes leak, windows and doors leak air, boats leak, even head gaskets leak. how can the auto industry invent / engineer a glass/rubber?/metal seal that does not leak ??? only the space shuttle doesn't leak, at least not very much. i know you said it wasn't the drain tubes, and that the whole thing needed to be replaced, but ....... i think i'd study it a lot before i bought all new parts. the HVAC industry has a great foil backed rubbery sticky gooey sealant tape that they use on duct work, no not duck tape, that is pretty impressive stuff. i used some on a rear hatch where i remove a spoiler and it is still dry 2 years later. but i'm sure it is very costly for a whole roll. i first used it when i pulled an engine i was going to store to seal up openings and tubes. when it came time to install it i had to use a solvent to remove all the adhesive.

my understanding is that the actual crank sprocket timing mark is NOT on the front face of the sprocket but on the rear "tabs". and your picture doesn't show that detail. the other telltale is that the crank keyway is down at the 6 o'clock position. there are some great pictures in a link in my signature below, the ones you want are on page 2.

we don't get enough snow to be able to say that abs is the problem. but i can say with certainty, during the last snow, 16", i had much more control of the car going down hill in 1st (auto trans) than i did when i put my foot on the brake. the tires were grabbing when in gear, all 4 by the way, and i could slow down and drive. as soon as i tried to come to a complete stop , with the abs, it became more like a sleigh ride. i didn't know enough to put it in neutral. i'll have to read my owners manual to see what it recommends for snow and ice. i don't remember any warnings or suggestions regarding abs, but then it's hard to read and drive at the same time. and there was one stop light and hill combination that had me worried. i figured out a plan as i was not slowing enough and then i stopped. but then i worried about the guy behind me and started looking for somewhere to go just in case.

call the dealer, give them your vin, ask for a price and part number for the ring gear. then check it on line at one of the many parts suppliers. then you will know.

edit: gary types faster!! 99s have a history of bad speedos. if it was a different year i would have guessed the speed sensor, but not for 99. you can use any outback speedo 96 - 99, maybe legacy too, but outback would be better. extra points if you find one with similar mileage. post an ad here in the classifieds wanted section. some one should have one on the shelf. or look here: www.car-part.com sort your search by distance.

these are just the fasteners they use on the seat covers to hold them in place, and they get their name from the look of the hog nose pliers used to compress them. right!?!?

most folks just use a stout screw driver or socket extension in the access hole up top. just don't drop it in. this didn't sound right to me so i used a chain wrench on the crank pulley using old accessory belt to protect it. this worked, but i hear it can stress the pulley, the rubber piece can fail and separate. and this one i'm not too sure about, someone who has lots of posts has posted that there is a hole part way down on the bell housing and a screwdriver there will work, I THINK, i may have mis-understood. this didn't sound right either, but i haven't even looked for a hole there yet. the actual tool is y shaped or u shaped with 2 prongs for the holes in the crank pulley and a long handle. the y or u allows you to access the bolt in the center. basically a breaker bar with 2 prongs instead of a socket.

it's wrong. outbacks were the same from 96 - 04, 4.11 manual and 4.44 auto. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/38104AA130/

i'm unsure about the legacy, i'm 100% sure about the outback manual trans, it is a 4.11. http://opposedforces.com/parts/

i'd trust the interchange software at the used parts yards. they are very conservative, not likely to make a mistake that will cost you or them money. and as one yard owner told me after i commented that all 90 - 99 front axles were the same, "we pay a lot of money every year to know what fits and what doesn't." he was offended that i challenged his software. if it is an outback, not impreza, it's going to be a 4.11 manual or 4.44 auto. a legacy L may be 3.9 and 4.11 respectively, but since they both have the 2.5L engine (no more 2.2L engines) i may be wrong about the legacy ratios.

if your oil pan gasket is leaking it will be the first one this year. meaning, they don't leak often and you have to lift the engine to get to all the bolts. if the rear of the engine is oily and it looks like the oil pan is the cause, it is probably the oil seperator plate on the back of the engine behind the fly wheel. but you have to pull the engine to get to it, so most let that one go unless it is really bad or you are pulling the engine for some other reason. valve covers are pretty easy, make sure to get the rubber grommets for the bolts. this is a common leak for legacys. fix it first and then see what else you need. there is a chance that the bolts are just a little loose, snug them up and maybe.... another common leak point is the oil pump, either the o-ring behind it or screws on the impeller. crank seal and cam seal & o-rings,... but valve covers first. the cam & crank seals may be needed just because of their age but if they aren't leaking bad i'd wait until 120k t-belt change, unless that's 10 years away. you have to remove the timing belt to do the oil pump, cam and crank seals. so if you choose to do them now, do all of the timing parts as well. how many miles a year do you drive??

the speedo gears are mounted on the front diff carrier assembly and turn the same as the front passenger side axle. i have heard that the speedo ring gear can be swapped from the out side without cracking the case. i would go to the guy you got the trans from and get some money back for the cost of the diff or maybe he has the actual one that was with the trans for free. he helped get you in this mess.

the GT TZ102Z2AAA has a 4.44 final drive and the legacy TZ102ZAAAA has a 4.11 final drive ratio. you need the matching rear diff. where did you get the trans? otherwise it will work just fine. don't worry about the TCU. what was wrong with the original trans?

it is unlikely that you you have one, they were not common in the late 90s. but they were standard in 03, so just get one from an 03 outback / GT manual car and bolt it in. some models had them standard in 01.

of course, right next to the remote and the eggs.

first let me say that i only have knowledge of 95 - 99 U.S. made outbacks and legacys. the basic trans shown in your attachments are the same, this is indicated by the first 6 letters/numbers TZ1A4Z.... if this trans were in an american car it would be referred to here as a phase 2 4eat. we first saw this number in a 99 outback. prior to that out trans were TZ102Z.... this was a phase 1 trans. typically the next letter/number in the code refers to the final drive ratio. again, in the US, the outback would be a 4.44:1 and my guess is the other refers to a legacy ratio of 4.11:1. BUT we do not have any 2.0L legacys in the US, 90 - 99 so this is a guess. the last 2 letter/numbers refer to the model of car the trans is in. "BA", here, usually means outback and "AA" means legacy. the 3rd to last letter/number simply refers to which year in the series this trans is/was. in other words, A came before B and C came after. both of yours are "A" so they are both a first in their series. this really does not relate to your situation. IN MY OPINION: the trans will work, but the final drive will be off, so you would need the rear differential as well. we do this here a lot, mostly because of price and availability, i think. you have the trans already or it is only 200$ and the one with the correct final drive ratio is 800$. if you go this route, your speedo may be off. the gears the operat the speedo are matched to the stock tire size. but this is usually a small error and the owners do not mind. i don't think any dealer will agree with me because they go by the book. so do the used parts sellers here. but enough of us have done these to know what will work here in the us. you should be able to compare the fron diff part numbers, with some research, on the site: http://opposedforces.com/parts/ good luck.