johnceggleston

it does sound like warped rotors. they are easy, but the bigger question is why? could be your caliper slide pins? poor movement of the caliper may cause over heating causing warping. or maybe just your driving style? or .... remove the wheel, remove the caliper (leave the brake line attached), remove the caliper bracket. you will want to re-grease the slide pins. and check the piston for crud and stuff. it is hard to imagine that you need calipers at 65k. replace the rotors (some low end rotors have been known to be bad, warped, right out of the box) replace the pads. there is a certain satisfaction in wire brushing everything and putting it back together. i have done pads without it but it's not as much fun. bolt it back up. 2 bolts for the bracket, one or two for the caliper, 5 for the wheel. test drive. what did it miss? edit: check the fluid level.

did the spark plug socket have the rubber bushing inside it. it looks like it would slip over the cap. tear apart one of the others and see if the cap is larger than the hex. or hammer / tap the socket into place, if the cap gets stuck in the socket you may solve the problem. tap on, spin, pull off, remove cap from socket, then remove plug. the cap cannot be very sturdy. PS: this may be the best picture i've seen on this board. kudos!!!!!!!!! :banana:

since someone else is paying for the most of it, i agree with the mechanic, you need a new engine. side note, i wonder if when they ran the vin# the extended warranty showed up??

yes and no. it is the same process and everything you see is the same on the SOHC ej25 except maybe the belt tensioner, but on the DOHC there are 2 more cam sprockets that need to be lined up. several folks use and have recommended using small spring clamps, larger than clothes pins, to hold the belt in place during the process. (have we gotten so old that the young people do not know what clothes pins or turntables are?) i picked up a 4 pack at northern tool last month for $1.99 or less, i think.

+1, so it's counting cycles, is that per minute or second or what?? this is a guess, but it looks like 30 is the default. and maybe it jumps up as the trans shifts hitting the 70s, and higher, as the trans reaches high speed in 4th bleeding off most of the trans fluid pressure. does this fit with the way the duty c works?

if the belt is jumping teeth then you have the cause of the initial belt failure. six teeth is almost? 90 degrees. are you compressing the tensioner correctly? and releasing the pin after you get the belt on? it could be faulty.

NO, with the crank sprocket in the correct timing position, the pistons are all at the half way point so there is no risk of piston valve contact. i do not know the belt tooth count, but i would double check it now that the crank pulley is off and try again. oh yeah, some one else will have to confirm, but the 2.2L phase 2, 00 - 01, may have a larger belt than the phase 1 and so the count could be different.

it probably did not make sense 2.5 years ago either, when he wrote it.

correct, but if it runs good with the belt, you then need to decide what else if anything you want to do before you put it back together and drive it. you can also do the count starting from the passenger side cam timing mark. one number to the carnk sprocket and then another one to the driver cam mark.

it looks like the one in my signature. nipper posted it a while back, in the fall maybe, and at the time we were getting so many how to questions i linked in my signature. also in my signature, instructions on how to insert a web address link as a "click here". not a lot of detail, but if you work with it you can figure it out.

in 96, maybe 95, california cars had to have a 105k timing belt, or at least more than 60k. the rest of the country was 60k. so subaru made a cal. spec belt and put it on cal sold cars. the belt is the only difference in the cars. later in the 90s all new subarus went to 105k. at my local advance auto, 2 years ago, the belt in stock was 60k and cost more than the special order 105k belt. go figure. if you use the cal. spec belt the interval is 105k. and on a non-interference 96 2.2L engine why not. you just have to keep in mind that with 180k miles on the engine, or what ever it is, will all the idlers and water pump make it another 100k miles. just plan ahead.

is the timing mark on the crank sprocket at low spot, belt tooth or a high spot, belt valley/groove??

also, the rotation of the crank trys to loosen the bolt and when loose, it boogers the keyway in/on one direction. when you tighten the bolt it tends to move spin the sprocket in the other direction, the direction that is not wallowed? so is it possible that the key way will still correctly locate the sprocket when tightening since the damage is in the other direction??? and when tighten to the correct torque will stay put??

in my very very very limited opinion, that belt does not look new. it does not look old and worn out, but not new either.

non-interference went away in 97 for 2.2L and 96 for 2.5L engines. but interference is a relative term. there is a chance that SOHC will not bend valves, but it is not a guarantee. there is almost no chance that Dohc will not bend valves, i think.

yes, but this is the only case, 95 - 99 when a 2.2L manual had a 4.11. a bit of an odd duck. basically, the engine is an odd duck, the trans and final drive are outback. on a side note, the interchange software for the salvage yards does list a 2.2L engine in an auto trans outback in 96, but no one has ever seen one and every one swears they do not exist. i tend to agree.

when they introduce the 2.5L engine both the manual and the auto trans final drives went to a lower gearing, higher number, by one step. manuals went from 3.9 to 4.11 and autos went from 4.11 to 4.44. this was for the 2.5L cars only 96 - 99. in the auto trans world, 95 - 99, these things are generally true: the 1st character, T is for trans. the 2nd and 6th characters designate AWD or FWD. A is for FWD and Z is for AWD. so a TZ102Z... trans is AWD and a TA102A... trans is fwd. the 3rd, 4th, and 5th characters designate the series of trans. in autos the 102 was used form the beginning, 90 - 99. then there was an odd duck transition year, 1A2 maybe and then they went with 1A4. i do not know how long that series ran. the 7th character designates the final drive ratio, if the 7th character was a 2, it was a 2.5L car and had the 4.44 final drive (auto trans remember). if the 7th was a letter, usually/always an A, it was the 4.11. if you search the tranny chart you may find a similar correlation for manuals. the 8th character, 3rd to last, generally refers the where this particular trans falls in the series, A comes before B and C comes after B. often this changes with model years but not always. the last 2 characters, 9th & 10th, refer to the model of car the trans was in. generally BA = outback, AA = legacy, and CA = GT. but they sometimes varied away from this, i'm not sure the LSi fits and the GT may have been considered a legacy in its first year. but the BA is generally good. so much so that i think some of the outback sport impreza auto trans ended with BA. this is what i know about auto trans code numbers. you will have to do some research to see if there are similarities in manuals trans.

i thought 01 was the last year for the 2.2L engine in the impreza line, or any line in the us for that matter. i do not know what the rs or wrx or other models might have used, but the 2.2L was still used in the impreza in 00, i think.

would this be caused by crappy plug wires, or re-routing plug wires, or both. or something else. i know it didn't come from the factory that way.

good luck, i'm sure it will be FIXED. way too much work to not be.

the diff design 90 - 04? are all the same. they will all bolt in. BUT you need to make sure you get the matching final drive ratio.yours is 4.44:1. you can use any 2.5L auto trans rear diff 96 - 99. 00-04 you need to make sure it comes from an outback. there may be others that work but i'm not as familiar so keep to the outbacks with auto trans. Re: locking, post #2 here, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108298

/quote/ Anyone know the best/cheapest place to buy one? /quote/ https://www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ i prefer the first one, you can email or call jamie. other folks like the second, jason i think. you need 2 gaskets for the solenoid, "duty c valve assembly". you do not need a gasket for the trans case, use a good "rtv ultra" gasket goo stuff. you can replace the clutch discs if you want but you probably do not need them. just change the fluid, often. the duty c and 2 gaskets is about 75$ plus shipping, i think. and there are some old posts with part numbers if you need them, which you probably will not. or you can search here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/

they are in my signature, see below.

it isn't so much the cost of the subaru gaskets vs. free, it is the cost of the subaru gaskets vs. the time and labor, and cost of subaru gaskets if you have to do it a second time. sell the felpro on ebay and buy the subie gaskets.

did you see this one?? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66744