johnceggleston

search "torqueconverter" in my threads and read "how to seat your torque converter". it is not hard to do correctly if you know it needs to be done. most folks think they are done when in fact there is one more step. not a hard step, just an unknown step.

legos never had a ej18, impreza only. and i think 190 was the first year for legacy in the US. there is a 1.8L engine from the 80s, ea81 and ea82, but they have a different design. they are not in the ej series. but if is an EJ18, then it is non-interference. it also used the same heads, timing belt, timing idlers, head gaskets, intake, etc. as the early (90-96) ej22. so lots of parts floating around.

i find it really odd that 3 universals failed just when you put on your winter wheels. are you sure it is the universal joints? not the center carrier bearing? it doesn't matter much, you still need to replace, but ... just wondering. could driving over snow drifts or plowed snow mounds damage universals?

no, you do not need to swap anything as long as they are both 2.5 auto trans. just drop it in.

www.car-part.com sort by distance.

i don't think the early legos had a separate lock switch. up through 95 (96?) the driver door lock tab activated all of the doors. unlocking with a key unlocked all the doors.

year make model and miles would help, but yes, a bad alt will light up the dash.

if it fits, it ships!!!

i to believe that the 2.2 non-interference is the most desireble engine. but the fact of the matter is, any 2.2 WITH PROPER MAINTENENCE is a great engine. it is only when the t-belt is not done on time or off brand low quality parts are used that bent valves come into play. which leads to this, when purchasing any used car without absolute proof of the t-belt change date/mileage you should do it sooner rather than later to avoid valve damage. and as others are quick to point out, the 2.5 is good too, when service correctly.

buy an o-ring for the pump!!!

ej22s 90 - 96 are non-interference. all ej18s are non-interference. none of the 2.5s are.

those two are not the critical parts. i wouldn't worry, you'll be fine.

this sound like it is coming from behind the oil pump. the pump bolts on the the block so it is in front of the pan?? part of the pump hangs down???

seems like a pretty good deal to me if it runs ok, doesn't leak, (except the rack), no CELs and the dent in the rear isn't too bad. the leak may not in be the "rack", they don't fail often. there is a chance it is the power steering fluid lines going to the rack. they have been known to get screwed up when doing an engine swap. i'd try and get it for 1000$, but given what he said about the used rack, it sounds like he knows his stuff and may not deal. if he will not move on the price, ask him to have it inspected. or you test drive it and have it inspected. (a cheap price to pay to see if it has major problems.) i sold a car recently for my father-in-law. the would be buyer had the oil changed so he could ask the mechanic questions about the rest of the car. and he did buy it.

i don't really know so i could be very wrong, but a qt in 700 miles would almost have to be a hole in the pan. i don't think a pan gasket could leak that much. my vote is on the oil pump o-ring, or back plate screws or crank seal. how long did the engine sit in between 'pushing' the 97 and installed in the 98?? is there any chance the crank shaft got 'nicked' during the r&r of the seal? could the seal have been damaged? oem seal? Edit: i had the t-belt done in a 95 lego w/ 165k miles. i specifically requested all front seals be replaced. i do not remember if i requested valve covers done and i know i didn't request oil pump o-ring or screws. i didn't know to ask about them. so the short story is that the damn thing leaked badly after the work was done.

if you do not have a big stain in your drive way, the drain plug is not leaking too bad. i have the drain plug crush washers if you need some, 10 shipped to you for $6.50. larger quantities available. let me know.

according to http://www.cars101.com abs was available in 93 only on the impreza LS model.

rack or pump leak?? try some trans-x power steering stop leak first. you have nothing to loose, it can't hurt, you plan on replacing the rack anyway and it is cheap. this is the same company whose transmission fix in a botle works on the 99 auto trans with delayed engagement of gears. it worked great on my wife's 97 toyota avalon steering pump. i replaced the rack only to discover that the pump was leaking as well. the leak went from refill monthly to almost nothing.

all of the ejs i have seen here in the US have a vin # etched in the block on the passenger side mid point where it meets the trans. that should id them. quote> Anyway, I have been working with a few Nippon engines. All EJ 20's and all different. What I'd like to know is how to find out a bit more about each engine. Running serial #'s and the like. <quote if you do not have an id or serial number how are you expecting to look them up?

dealers are going to be your best source for what year is a particular engine. this assumes that they have a cross reference list. i would look here: http://opposedforces.com/parts you will have to start with a year and move on to the car and then engine, but it shouldn't take long to figure out as long as a ej20b comes after a ej20a or what ever the numbers are.

very very few 99 OBW trans will fit. the wiring harness changed when the went with the phase 2 engine in 99. you need a trans whose code number starts with TZ102Z2....... if the new trans has this 7 digit code (plus a few other digits that don't matter) it will fit.

think about it this way, if the hub/knuckles are the same and the wheels clear the calipers, then my guess is it will work.

it sound like the clips that the brake pads ride in are missing on one side and this is letting the pad move around and causing it to wear incorrectly. i have never seen brake pads in a caliper without the clips top and bottom. i think this is VERY DANGEROUS, mostly because i just don't know what might happen. buy pads and clips for that side at the least, both sides would be better. even cheap, 18$ pads with clips would be better than no clips. you can re-assess in the spring. or, buy as much insurance as they will let you buy.

what is "ln(x)", i know x is the number of years.

i had/have a similar problem on my son's 95 lego. sometimes the car would have binding and sometimes the fuse world cure the binding but neither would happen all the time. i never figured out if it was the duty c it self or the wiring or what. i suspect that heat had something to do with it. check the wiring connector going to the trans, undo it and snap it back. the TCU is pretty easy to swap out. pretty much any similar year will work, some of the mounting cases are different but the boards inside are the same, physically and plug right in. we ended up removing the rear section of drive shaft until we could replace the duty c, real fwd, but we haven't done it yet, 2 years.