johnceggleston

if you have the time to wait on shipping, post a wanted ad in the classifieds here. i'm sure there are plenty of them available from members. i'm pretty sure 90 - 99 ej22 and ej25 are the same, probably up thru 2010 as well.

i don't really know, but i'd start by looking for a loose connection. a connector working loose over time would explain a lot of ills.

but depending on where the car is, it is possible that the connector has been dragging in the snow for a while. i'd still look for a wiring problem before i bought a replacement. i searched p0141 and found 10 threads. one actually included the p0325 code and the same symptoms as this one. i read most of them and they pretty much follow what has been said above. but no solution feed back one way or the other as to wiring or o2 sensor.

buy some kind of a manual, even a haynes manul will tell you to install the torque converter in the trans, not mounted to the engine. then read the thread below. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=torqueconverter then come back and ask 'how to' regarding the details.

so, are you saying none of the fake crap?

the rear o2 sensor can be generic. i've never read here about a rear o2 sensor code and one being bad. is there a chance it is a wiring problem?

high pitched whine? alt belt/pulley bearing? although the radio not working is weird. but i think the clock and the radio come off different feeds, clock is always on radio only when car is on. but i agree, it sounds like the alt to me. just for grins, try the radio with everything else off.

95 yes, but i thought 96 brought the real outback with a step roof, 2.5L engine (except with the manual trans) and taller struts / tires.

i'm not familiar with the smog process so i can't comment. but, IMO, a 95 w/ 188k miles for 1900$ should not need a water pump or a timing belt. they will cost you 600$ unless you do them your self. the rest of the car better be perfect.

last time i looked, you could get subaru wires online for 40$ - 45$ plus shipping. are the magnecor better than stock?

i think with compressed air, and fluid under high pressure you can get it clean. and he did say clean sand. there are lots of repairs that are done in a shop that are not as perfect as the factory setting and work just fine for thousands of miles. every thing from head gaskets to paint jobs. and there are lots of things done on a car that are not in the repair manual. it does not mean they will not work. but you suit your self. i've learned a lot while reading posts on this board and just because i have not actually done everything i have read about does not mean it is wrong.

the same way you know you have successfully flushed the brakes lines after 150k miles, the fluid comes out clean.

or possibly tightening the nut on the stud.

you do not leave the sand in the brake line. you just use it as tool to bend the line without kinking it. then you remove the sand, clean the line and install it on the car.

this guy has one he doesn't need, i bet he'd sell it for 30$ plus shipping. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=899765&postcount=11

in the 90s the speedo take off in manual trans is different than the front diff take off in auto trans. i ASSUME that it is all mechanically driven, no fluid power unless there is a provision for "lack of lube" which then let it cut itself off. but i can't imagine that being the case. some one posted a pretty good pic last year. found pic: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=883922&postcount=14 whole thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106822&highlight=speedo*

yes, a bad duty c will usually give you a blinking light/trouble code. try the fuse, any size will do, in the FWD holder under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall. you can drive with this in while figuring out cause and solution. unless it is snowing, then leave it out and try not to make a lot of tight turns. the fuse makes it front wheel drive. when was the last time the fluid was changed? how many miles ago? how many miles on the car now?

the problem fixed in 97 1/2 is just one possible cause of TB. it could be dirty fliud / gummed up valve. or bad duty c or bad clutch discs do you have a blinking "AT Temp" light at start up? if you are going to continue driving it put in the FWD fuse under the hood. this may eliminate the problem and buy you some time. if problem goes away when you put in the fuse then the duty c is probably good. change the fluid, it can't hurt and may help. this is a 1000$ fix at the dealer.

check the wiring connectors at the speed sensor and the back of the speedo. on a 97 there are 2 wires that go directly from the sensor to the speedo. your year may be different.

from : https://www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html item Number...... MSRP ..........Core.......... Price Price 22611AD001..... $549.07 .......$0.00 ........$468.91 Electrical - Ignition system - Ecm - 2.5 liter All 1997

when i did my ej22 swap, i had a substantial coolant leak, tracked it back to the water pump which was new with subaru gasket. i pulled the water pump only to discover i had failed to tighten one of the water pump bolts, WHAT A DUMMY!!!! i replaced the gasket with a new one, better safe than sorry. Q: could i have reused the the wp gasket, most of which had been compressed?? i saved it just in case. what do you think?

does this help? http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_24/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/

How long do soobies last? until you sell 'em, wreck 'em or use 'em for parts!!

i would think it is pretty hard to bend valves in a 96 2.2L engine.

my 97 gt came with red needles.