johnceggleston

you won't know till you drive it, but the 2.2L engine is more resilient than the 2.5L engine. keep your fingers crossed.

search 'crank pulley repair' there are several good threads to read, including this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108471&highlight=crank+pulley+repair http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=964612

so it was timing related and not leaking head gasket between 2 cylinders. when you hear hoof beats, think horses, not zebras.

on my handheld GPS, low end no name, there is a language selection tab. maybe yours too. of course your language choices may be japaneze or korean or chinese. if only you could read the tabs. i'd contact a dealer if it was original equipment, and a japanese restaurant or teacher or someone similar if it is aftermarket. someone who can read the manufacturer's name.

year, model, miles? what was the trans doing that made you think trans-x would help?

00 - 04 certainly, but all of those seats will be like your. 95 - 99 probably, i think my leather seats came out of an 01. 90 - 94 maybe have you tried other subaru seats? what is it about yours that are bad?

any chance it is the rear causing the shimmy.?

yes, but if you limit your search to 97 - 98 you probably will not come across one that does not have egr. no egr on 97 -98 are really rare.

no, its easy and no fluid.

you can drive it this way no problem. the fuse is not necessary. there is a way to test if the front and rear diffs are the same on endwrench.com. test for checking if the front and rear diffs match: (auto trans only) jack up both wheels on one side of the car and put it on jack stands. (be sure to block the 2 wheels on the ground.) mark the 6 oclock position of the front and rear tires that are in the air. unplug the large trans elect. connector at the rear of the engine on top where it meets the trans. start the car, put it in neutral, and release the parking brake. turn one of the tires by hand 4 or 5 rotations. the tape marks should end up in the same position, if they don't then the front and rear diffs do not match. when you undo all of this don't forget to plug in the electrical connector. tag line: diffcheck, frontandreardiffsmatch

i have heard that phase 2 intakes will fit either ej22s or ej25s, as long as it is a phase 2. if this is true then it will not fit a ej22 phase 1. it may fit a ej25 phase 1 but i don't know. 01' was the last year for the ej22 in the US. did they sell it after that over seas??

ok, but when they are you will get fans running all the time and CELs for stuff that is really ok. did you look at the wires / connectors for the temp sensors when you replaced them? corrosion or a bad connector maybe or a bad wire? where did you get the new temp sensor.? who put it in?

so you found the black test connector under the dash. did you also find the green test connectors under there as well? the fans running as soon as you turn the key sounds like the green test connectors are hooked up when they should not be. they are only for the dealer to diagnose problems. look for them and undo them. i think it is a single wire connector. not to worry, if it isn't the right one you can always plug it back in. kudos for doing the research and learning about reading the codes. you are way smarter than pep boys. and welcome to the board.

www.cars101.com

what we really want ot do is keep power to the ecu when you turn the key off so the im monitors stay ready. and until some one tries this with the scangage on a 96 manual lego we will not know if the idea holds water. for instance, if the ecu stays on but every powered? sensor goes dead, what happens to the im monitors? or if the ecu stays on do you get lights on the dash? probably not but until tested........

think of it as trying to leave the headlights on when you turn the car off. all it takes is a wire from the battery to the headlights, or in this case the ecu. but until some research is done to see if this will even work, there is not a lot of reason to even think about it. and it is easy to get a manual trans to turn off leaving the key on, put it in 5th gear, hold the brake and let out the clutch. or cut the power supply to the coil, or the fuel pump.

so all we need is someone with a 96 lego manual trans with a scangage2. drive the car until the monitors? are ready?, stall the car on a hill (engine off key on) check to see if the monitors are still ready. release the brake and pop the clutch so the engine starts, re-check the monitors. maybe try the above and use the key to restart. any volunteers?

if it worked, you would only really have to use it for the inspection. the rest of the time it could shut off. will a code reader check readiness / monitors or whatever they are??

put smaller tires on it like the GTs, they have outback 4.44 final drive and legacy size tires.

the one time i had my rear diff fluid changed, the guy tightened the plug with a 24", maybe a 36", breaker bar with 'omph'. of course the car was head high on the lift and he just cranked 90 degrees after it was tight. almost no way to get that out with the car on the ground or even jack stands with or without corrosion. and if you put it on ramps, there is the chance you knock it over with all the tugging. pay someone to change the fluid and then have them apply anti-seize to the plugs. maybe anti-seize and teflon tape.

i don't know why they changed the tensioner but there is a reason. maybe something as simple as distance of travel, or higher compression resistance, who knows. but it is not surprising to me that it has to be replaced at 105k, everything else has to be. and i'm not at all confident that just because an idler spins ok at 105k that it will continue to do so for another 105k. the only way to be sure is to replace them.

you need to make life simple. put the 2.5L in the outback. if it is done right you will not have to do it again and the 2.5 is more fun to drive, not a lot more but some. once the 97 obw limited is on the road, look for a 95 - 96 manual with a bad engine and do the swap. or put the 96 2.2 and ecu in a 97 - 98 outback and sell it in a state that does not check the ecu at inspection. northern VA has emissions checks but not the rest of the state. some one here from a no-emissions check area might be willing to broker the car sale for a small fee. or put the 2.2 / ecu in a 96 outback and swap the "limited" stuff from the 97 over. keep and drive the 96 , sell the 97.

SPECIAL NOTE: when jacking up the trans do not place the jack under the pan, it will dent and damage wires inside the trans. it does not take much of a dent to be a problem. move the jack forward and jack under the front diff.

how ever are they like RWD cars, to remove the cover do you have to remove the diff??????

i'd press the dealer for a fix. if fluid does it so much the better. they knew the car had torque bind when they sold it. they took advantage of you. complain, make them fix it. if they refuse, tell them you are calling the better business bureau. press for a transfer clutch rebuild, if they balk, tell them you'll take a trans flush. buying a car 'as is' from a dealer is different than buying one 'as is' from an individual. at the local car auction, some cars are "dealers only". the difference, in this state cars sold to dealers do not have to go through any safety inspection or certification process. the car could have absolutely no brakes and there could be no come backs. dealers price their cars high so if the buyers says i want the car, but i want new front brakes, there is still a profit. if you had asked for a trans flush before you signed the paperwork they would have done it to make the sale. ask, if he balks ask him if he wants you to be a repeat customer. the worst thing that can happen is they say NO.