johnceggleston

air fuel intake, compression, spark, you have to have all 3 to get an engine to run.

you are welcome, but it isn't a car it is just an engine, from a salvage yard. another option would be to buy a good head, but if the car has been over heated it may be better to swap the whole thing. there are others if you search the link i gave you. i used a lansing zip code, you can use your own and sort the search by distance. you may get luckier than i did.

to re-cap, you got this car free or almost free and the engine came in pieces, correct? and after you got it back together it would not run.? apparently you took it apart again and found a crack in the head and tried to repair it, correct? i'm not going to re-read all of the posts, did it have good compression? did you look here for an engine? 90 - 94 will work: www.car-part.com maybe 95 - 96 or maybe not they are obd2. where in michigan? 1992 Engine Subaru Legacy(2.2L, VIN '6' 6th digit), w/o turbo-- 100K $350 Abcat Auto Salvage USA-MI(Ypsilanti) 1-800-869-6933

timing belts, idlers, and waterpumps along with seal and gasket kits can be bought from "theimportexperts" on ebay. good quality parts for a very good price. some folks will say use only subaru seals. not very many people here go as far as spliting an engine block. of course some of the pros here do it on a regular basis, but most of us are of the shade tree variety and why split a block when you can get a replacement engine for 300$ or less. but that's just my opinion. i would think a subaru online dealer would be your best source for rings and bearings, but i have never bought either, so what do i know? aftermarket may be just fine if it is a reputable company. i like : www.subarugenuineparts.com jamie thomas, "subie gal", is a member of this board. but there is also : www.1stsubaruparts.com www.subarupartsforyou.com - a good place to find part numbers www.opposedforces.com/parts/ - another good part number place

do a search, there is a black diagnostic wire connector under the dash near the steering column. you need to ground out one of the pins to get it to flash. i forget which pin, some one will know. there are some good old post, with pictures, if you can find them.

look here if no one on the board has one for sale: http://www.car-part.com

how big is .0625 mm? will 5/16 hose stretch that much?? my guess is that you can try it and see faster than you can do the math. edit: it's about 1/400 of an inch, or 0.7 % of the 5/16 (hose less than 1%).

have you been on vacation? it has been 2 months!!

don't ever put "brake fluid" in a 90 nissan hydraulic clutch system, you will ruin it and have to replace the slave cylinder.

any chance his front tire pressures are low?? any chance it could be the "car wash" effect, the car seems to run better after you fill it up with gas and run it through the car wash?? sounds like you need to take a road trip, georgia is nice this time of year.

i thought the primary function was 'no start' if the clutch pedal was NOT push in.

i have a 97 GT with steering stiffer than my 97 obw. i wonder if the po used the wrong fluid. when you bled the old out, how did you do it? thanks, john

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/1713166223.html

you can probably swap the heads and intake from the phase 2 onto a phase 1 block, but the ej22 phase 2 intake is the same as ej25 intake of similar years, i think. so it is different than the ej22 phase 1 intake.

you still haven't said what year the engine is. you could have damaged the valves if it's a 97 - 01. check out the links in my signature below. \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/

they don't go out often and i don't think it matters which one you use. probably not a turbo though.

there is a donut gasket with spring bolts just after the section with the cats and before the mid-pipe, look there.

year make and model. i think some seat belts have a lifetime warranty. call the dealer and ask.

that would certainly make it easier to mount, clearance wise.

the pics i have seen show 2 anti foulers used on the rear, the first one , threaded into the exhaust is left in tact, no changes. the second one , threaded into the first is drilled through completely. it appears as thought the tip of the o2 is longer than the anti-fouler so it extends part way into the first one. this setup puts the o2 sensor in its own small compartment with a very small opening into the exhaust . please correct me if i'm wrong.

on a 97 OBW the o2 sensor are identical except for the wire connector, i think.

i'm not sure i'd go back to that shop, they did the timing belt and now you have engine noise and a coolant leak. i don't know what they charged for the work, but it was not worth it. and as probably mentioned above this is an interference engine if the water pump or idlers fail you are in for some serious money. find a shop that works on subarus and replace all related parts not just the belt.

buy the subaru part and take it to your glass shop, then help them install it. you learn, they provide labor only and your car has an oem part. it's a win win.

i remember something about "both fans running all the time" when the diagnostic plugs are connected. but this would only show that they both work. not what it takes to get them to come on. do not leave the diagnostic plugs connected. one of the fans is supposed to come on when the ac is turned on.

my son's 95 had an intermittent AT Temp lite and since he never wanted to hang around long enough to fix it we pulled the rear section of the drive shaft and he's still driving it like that 2 years later. knock on wood. before we pulled the shaft we put the FWD fuse in and that elimnated the problem SOME of the time, not always. that's why we pulled the drive shaft. i suspect heat may have played a part in the problem but i have nothing to really base that on. i did try a different TCU but that didn't help in our situation, so he's driving a FWD subaru until ....... having a tcu code 24 without torque bind seems very very odd to me if not impossible, but never say never. please don't take offense, but... are you sure you checked the tcu codes and not the abs codes? are you sure it is code 24? does the trans operate correctly in every way, shifting, torque converter lock up, downshifting, ect? this seems so odd to me that my first inclination is that some how you have some bad information. if you are sure of all of the above info my guess would be a bad connection or a bad TCU. it seems odd that either could throw a code and not cause torque bind but who knows? i might swap in a different TCU if you can get one extra cheap, or free, or borrow one from a friend and return it after you learn if it helps. since the AT Temp lite blinks at start up in the NEXT drive cycle, when you test the car for torque bind and find it is clean, turn it off and then re-start it, looking for the blinking lite. there is a possibility that your problem / duty c is intermittent and you just didn't notice the torque bind on the previous drive. i hope this helps. i'm afraid it is a little disorganized. let us know what you learn.