johnceggleston

this thread loses a lot of it's effectiveness without the pics in the first post, too bad. mnwolftrack hasn't been on the board since 2008. if anyone happens to know him, how about telling him we need his torque converter pics. they were great pics.

would a used compressor be a good source for the clutch??

no you can't run the engine with the flex plate unbolted from the TC. unless you have another way to start it. the starter gear engages the teeth on the TC which is bolted to the flex plate and the crank. if you unbolt it, the crank will not turn when you turn the key. the question you need to ask is, if not the flex plate, then what? how bad is this "knock"? what if you just drove it as is? if it is internal it's cheaper to replace than to repair, generally speaking unless it is just valve noise. and if it is the flex plate it will get worse over time, then you will know.

you really will be hapier, more confident with a haynes manual at your side. they are not perfect but they are handy and they do have the torque setting listed. a couple of notes on this whole process (there are lots of good write ups which you search for and read): 1. if the engine is out of the car and it is an auto trans, search and read "torqueconverter" (the oldest thread) before you reinstall the engine. 2. a few of the torque setting are correctly listed in INCH/LBS. not ft / lbs. do not over torque anything. you do not want to bust a bolt or strip out threads. there is one exception, see item 3. 3. the crank pulley bolt should be torqued to at least 125 ft/lbs, i use 140 ft/lbs. if you do not it may / will work loose over time and mess up the key way. there are lots of subies for sale with "boogered" crank shaft key way and pulley. is the engine in or out of the car? i would test thread all of the head bolts before the actual install. use some oil or lube to make them work easy before you try it with the heads. i have a parts car i bought for 200$ because a head bolt was cross threaded and busted. an extra pair of hands helps when setting the heads. NO SPRAY on the heads or gaskets. how many miles on the car, did you say before? auto or manual?

i noticed you are in tenn. how deep is the water???? and welcome to the board.

check the pics on page 2 in the second link below. the crank sprocket has a line or hash mark on one of the reluctors or tabs on the back edge of it. it goes in the 12 oc'lock position and line up with the mark on the timing cover or block. (the key way will be in the 6 o'clock position.) the cam pulleys als so have a line or hash mark on the front outer edge of the pulley. they go in the 12 o'clock position and line up with the mark on the rear of the timing cover. some timing belts will come with corresponding marks on them which may or may not be correct. if you plan on using them you should double check the tooth count. which i do not know off of the top of my head. i'd have to check my haynes manual. but regardless, as long as all 3 timing marks are in the 12 o'clock position, you will be good. after several rotations, they will all still be in the correct positions, BUT the marks on the belt will not be. take care in compressing the tensioner.

i have no idea what you are trying to do , but i do know this: 1. your engine is non-interference, valves cannot hit pistons. 2. set the crank sprocket to the correct timing mark and all of the pistons will be at the mid-cylinder position. 3. assemble the cam shafts, rockers and cam pulleys and install. rotate to the correct timing mark and hang the belt. timing will be right. except for arrows on the pulleys that are NOT used for timing the engine, common mistake, subaru has made it easy. so easy in fact that i can do it and get it right on my first try after a 30 year wait since i adjusted a valve. i think you are trying to make something simple, into something difficult.

2 good links in mt signature below. \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/

if this is a new to you trans you have no way of knowing what they did to it during removal. even after draining the pan, tipping the trans front up can drain the TC and or drain fliud out the rear. personally, i would fill to the cold full line with the engine off. then run it to circulate the fluid throughout the trans and re-check it. there is little chance it has enough fluid if it does not have enough when sitting still and cold. the volume actually increase when hot but not a lot, 1/2 a pint or so. so if you get it close cold then you can tweak it when hot and running. the dip sticks are hard to read, the red fluid appears clear on the stick, look at both sides. someone mentioned that an ice cold dip stick, placing it in ice water, made it easier to read but i don't know.

yes. yes. and yes.

for the trans, you might try some Trans-X additive. others have had good luck with it in 99s. from a couple of recent posts it seems that earlier is better for stopping the "slow to engage" in the 99 auto trans which is a known problem. search "trans-x" and read up on it. there is an especially long thread with success stories.

anything here look familiar?? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_2/ PS: pm sent on a different subject

how is the AT Temp light involved? that seems odd to me.

pull out the center shaft, it should slide right out. when i pulled the TC out of a bad trans i had removed from the car, the whole shaft came out . the fat sleeve and the long thin one, i think, if i remember correctly.

+1 what he said, this is not an uncommon problem for a subaru at this age. the repair is what you want, either the flange or the welding. the cats apparently are working fine.

yes. the months probably aren't as hard on it as the miles but the risk is just too great to not have it done. however, my question would be do the idlers age the same as the ''rubber" belt itself? how about the water pump? regardless, when doing a timing belt, the question you should ask in regard to replacing components is "will this part go another 105k miles?" if you have any doubt, it should be replaced.

good point, a larger hook with spring tension inserted just an inch might work. plus you can still get it out if it is only an inch in. how about a bottle brush, thread it in pull it out?

no. no. and no. the engine is always easier. if you are going to do the rack, do it with the engine out. it's easy to get the steering wheel and wheels straight then. a used rack is a good choice, 60$ instead of 260$. they do not fail often. http://www.car-part.com

i saved this one a while back. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59033

i have had good luck with trans-x power steering fluid stop leak.

how about a long coat hanger? the shaft is hollow to move fluid so a long wire hook might grab the back lip? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_3/ there are 2 "shafts" both are tubes, i think if you pull the thinner one the larger one will come too.

it doesn't sound good. i would have put the flat blade of the screw driver in the slot in the senors hole, and rotated the wheel. the screw driver should have rotated when the wheel did. but the way you did it may be ok if you you got the screwdriver in the slot and you did not force it to turn.

a second opinion is in order. sounds like it is time to go to a front end shop for a diagnosis. not a national chain tire store that also does alignments, i mean a real front end shop. find out what the problem is, get a price and then decide if you want them to do the work. as far as camber goes, i have heard that you can guestimate it in these cars by setting to the max. it will not be right but it will not be far out, I THINK!!! there is no way a quality shop could align the front end correctly and it will wear out tires. even if some parts need to be replaced, they should see that when they do the alignment. just my opinion.

pic #2 looks a lot like the MAF connector on a 970bw. did 94s have a maf?

if the torque bind was still there after the rear diff swap there is a good chance the diff wasn't bad, but that is water under the bridge. who diagnosed the bad rear diff? who replaced it? was the same shop who says the trans is doomed in 10 minutes. where did the new diff come from? what is the ratio of the new diff? i would check to see if it is the correct ratio before going any further. search "diffcheck" and follow the instructions in the oldest thread. the car will always bind if the rear diff does not match. diff are pretty hardy and do not fail often. you probably do need a transfer clutch repair since you had torque bind and never addressed it, but i'm not sure i'd trust the shop that replaced the diff when it was really the transfer clutch. if that is what really happened. check to see if the diffs match. remove the rear section of drive shaft and see if it still whines. if yes, i would swap the trans. you could repair the transfer clutch, but if it still whines after the repair then what. but the whining will probably be gone. and then you have the question of repair or replace. by the way, my son has been driving a 95 lego awd with the rear section of shaft removed for the last 30k miles, now at 200k+.