johnceggleston

i'll say it again, make a call to a machine shop. it will cost you nothing and you will know how much repair money you are talking about. then you can either plan the repair, for now or later, or throw the block away. either way, you will know. you may even learn just what parts you need to make the repair.

if it's piston slap, and it's beginning to sound like it is, you can drive it as is and it's just an annoyance. the only fix is to replace the pistons, but it should run a long time as is. however, the seller did trick you. he had already warmed the car up when you test drove it so the slapping was diminished. i'd go back and try to get your money back or at least some of it. did you get it from a dealer, car lot or individual?

typically there is a push button under the dash used to reset the alarm, press and hold. maybe with the key in the acc position. i have a 97 obw that does a similar thing, but i'm pretty sure it is "programmed" to the same remote as my neighbors. i cut the wire going to the alarm horn, now the lights just flash. do you have a remote for it? i think that will 'clear ' the alarm as well. if you do not have a remote, getting one and programming it to unlock your car may help. it will change the frequency the system responds to.

PLEASE some body lock this thread and get us out of here.

i'll find out tomorrow.

you should be able to do cheaper, i don't know about better. especially in new york state, they should be plentiful. did you look here? http://www.car-part.com

thanks, that's what i thought.

mike has one, send him a pm with an offer: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111015 all legacys are the same 96 - 99, outbacks 96 - 99, 04? are different. what about imprezas?

i found a 95 lego ej22 5 speed which is stuck in 3rd gear. is this new trans time or maybe just a shifter issue? thanks, john

best laff this week!!!

on the legacy / outback there are 2 -3 screws inside the ashtray cavity and you have to remove the center console tray?, a few screws there.

the other thing you may want to know is that all?of the parts on the outback will also fit the legacy L, GT, and LSi. so depending on what you find available, you could buy a lego wagon and swap in the outback struts, wheels, doors, bumpers, fog lights, radio, seats, etc, to make the car you want. the paint job and roof rack would be a little harder i think?

the rear section of drive shaft is common to legacys, outbacks, GTs, LSis, manual and auto trans. any differences in the over all length between the rear diff and the trans is made up in the front section of drive shaft, between the trans and the carrier bearing. the front section of drive shaft should be the same for auto trans, manual trans would be different.

the original poster must have deleted his post.??

you might call a machine shop and ask about the cost of a fix. anything that you have seen once i would bet they have seen several times. and you never know it might only be 50$.

is 10w30 ok or is there a better, job specific product out there?

the torque converter has nothing to do with toeque bind, i don't know if it can cause vibrations. if the new fluid helped the torque bind some, then change it again and drive it, it may improve some more. you need to clean out the gunk. driving the car on the hiway with torque bind will do minimal damage to the drive line and may help clean up the clutch plates. if your solution is to swap the trans, you have nothing to lose except the cost of the fluid.

used is a much better option especially since you are not sure that is in fact the problem. but since this problem started with a timing issue, i'd look there first. the belt could have slipped again. remove the crank pulley, should be easy since it was just off, and timing covers and check all 3 timing marks. if they are all ok then move on.

based on your description of the fluid, i bet your transfer clutch plates are all gummed up. clean fluid (full flush or several drain and refills) and driving time may 'clean' them up some / enough, but replacing them will be a sure fix. (the clutch does not engage the plates when the FWD fuse is installed, i think) the only question in my mind would be, given the labor to pull the transfer housing and the cost of the plates ONLINE, do you spend the extra $75 - $85 for the duty c? or as mentioned do you just swap in another trans? and if you do swap in a used trans do you address the transfer clutch before install? sorry, more questions than answers. i guess the vibration could be an axle??

they have a retail store and reportedly the prices are the same as the ebay store. if you do not see the kit you need, call them. they have the parts you want and the belts, and idlers are of good quality and have been tested / used by others on this board. they did list a legacy 2.5 96, i think. this would be the outback, GT and LSi engines. on a side note, the 96 outback uses the same parts, idlers, water pump, crank seal, oil pump o-ring, and the cam seals(4 instead of 2), as the 96 2.2 except for the belt, the belt is longer.

i use these guys, if you do not see the kit you want, call them: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/theimportexperts/m.html?_nkw=subaru+timing+belt+legacy&_sacat=&_trksid=p3911.m270.l1313&_odkw=subaru+timing+belt&_osacat=0&bkBtn=

the success that subie drivers have had with transx is generally limited to the 99, maybe 00, auto trans. if it did not help your situation then your trans trouble is different than what the 99 auto trans have. i don't know enough about the inner workings to suggest what the trouble may be but if i were you i'd start saving for a used trans. how many miles?

spark? air? fuel? try spraying some ether or carb cleaner? into the intake when it trys to die. see if more fuel makes a difference.

ding! ding! ding! we have a winner. you are correct. bolt it in and drive away. remember to use the 2.5 flex plate if it is an auto trans.

pretty much it it a drop in and bolt up. one exception, if the ej22 does not have the same exhaust ports as the ej25 you will need to swap the exhaust y-pipe. 95 has matching exhaust ports, 96 - 98 do not. your ideal donor car for the swap is the 95 ej22 auto trans. regardless of which ej22 you choose you will need/want to do the following. use the ej25 flex plate if it is an auto trans. ( i don't know about manual trans, so check the fly wheels both before you put the engine back in.) unbolt the AC compressor but leave it connected to the AC lines, just flop it out of the way. the ej25 power steering lines work, but there is a mid-point support bracket that does not match the ej22 engine. most folks just let them hang without any problems. (if you happen to have the ej22 car the engine came from you can swap in the p/s line from it and it will be perfect. in order to avoid a CEL light and code, you want to use an ej22 with EGR. generally this means 95 -96 auto trans or almost any 97 - 98 ej22. (there are a very very few 97 - 98 ej22 that do not have egr.) 90 - 94 will bolt in and run just fine but you will have a cel and egr code. not good for emissions testing. and finally, if you have an auto trans, read up on seating the torque converter before you re-install the engine. click on the link in my signature below. what did i miss?