johnceggleston

i think something like carb cleaner will make them look like that but not necessary. just clean up the sealant, tighten the backing plate, put in a new o-ring and re-install.

i just resealed the oil pump on a 95 ej22 to swap into a 97 outback. the last guy to work on it used WAY too much sealant. there was a bead of excess equal to what is shown below on both the inside and the outside of the oil pump. some of which was pumped through the engine oil passages. as a result the passenger side cam seized and broke. question: what is the chance that another part of the engine has been oil starved??? my plan is to replace the cam shaft, sprocket, and mounting brackets and go ahead with the swap. any suggestions?? at first glance it looked like it was damaged in an accident. but when i put my hand on it to try and turn it, what was left of the sprocket and about 2 inches of shaft came off in my hand. i have a spare head and all asorted parts, 96 not 95. my plan was to swap in the busted parts and shaft mounts, are you saying the head is at risk?? wait a minute, i think i got it. the shaft rides in the head, not on mounts like the rockers. i guess i should swap the head. can i have it checked at a machine shop. would it be repairable? how should i proceed?? i had not planned on doing a head gasket on this engine. is it dumb to do only one side, only one side is damaged.?? thanks

i have an a/c idler bearing if you need one.

there are 3 vac lines in the second picture, 2 going to the right (in the pic) and one lower that comes off of the intake, not the throttle body, going to the left and under the throttle body next to the pcv. where does that one go??

just my limited opinion, that looks like a lot of sealant. i would spread it with my finger and remove any excess. i just did this on a 95 ej22 to swap into a 97 outback. the last guy to work on it used WAY too much sealant. there was a bead of excess equal to what is shown in the pic above on both the inside and the outside of the oil pump. some of which was pumped through the engine oil passages. as a result the passenger side cam seized and broke. question: what is the chance that another part of the engine has been oil starved??? my plan is to replace the cam shaft, sprocket, and mounting brackets and go ahead with the swap. any suggestions??

the o-ring, is this on the intake or the output side of the pump?? seems it would be on the side drawing oil from the pan.

good catch, do you have any hair left??

how did you solve this??

there is a recent thread on this with good debate on both sides. search compressor + clutch + used and read more recent ones.

Igniter assembly 22438AA041 alternate: 22438AA042 '93, October — '94, June 22438AA043 alternate: 22438AA044 '94, July — '95, June '94, November — '96, June '95, December — '97, July '96, July — '98, May https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html >electrical >ignition system >ignihter $186 plus shipping

if you do not have the o-ring for the oil pump i think i'd leave it alone unless there is a lot of oil leaking out there. maybe use the one from your outback. it maybe newer. the rtv seal on the pump body holds up better than the o-ring, i think. the cam caps are located, one passenger side on the rear of the head and the other on the driver front of the head, you'll see the one when you replace the cam seal. maybe use the ones from your outback. they may be newer. the ECU will be just fine, the ej25 has 4 cam shafts but only one cam sensor just like the ej22.

water pump and t-stat - yes, use them. also the idlers for the t-belt if they are new or better than yours. you do not want the section with the cats, just the section in front of them. no pre-cats there. DO NOT mess with the rear main seal unless you have to . they almost never leak and often they leak after they have been changed. the oil seperator plate always leaks. the oil sep plate on the back side can be re-sealed, but if it is cracked then no. if it is plastic, i highly recommend replacing it. if metal then re-seall. look here for real subaru parts: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html . if needed ask about overnight shipping if that is easier than driving to the dealer nearest you. check the one on your outback as well. use RTV to seal it up. do not use too much. you do not want it to ooze into the engine. ask for it at your local advance or autozone store. use it on the oil pump as well SPARINGLY. i repeat, SPARINGLY, not a bead but a THIN layer spread with your finger. do not forget : o-ring for the oil pump dealer item?? o-rings for cam caps, came with seals?? exhaust manifold gaskets - parts store? the plug wires will not work. the plugs i do not know about. drive belts i do not know.

others will know more, but i would address the coolant temp sensor code first, then move on to whatever else. the code is there for a reason. the temp sensor can cause the engine to run too rich. did you use subaru wires??

the next thing to consider is how much to do to the 2.2L engine before you install it? absolute minimum: rear oil sperator plate / cover (subaru only part). it's behind the flex plate and they tend to leak, do it while you can. as good as you are at engine R & R why wait if you can do it now. all the rest can be done any time but is easier with the engine out. and if you choose not to do the following, it only leaves you stranded if the t-belt or idler fails, not with a damaged engine. reccomemded: front oil seals and o-rings, cam & crank oil pump reseal, o-ring and check backing plate screws t - belt water pump all idlers plugs wires and maybe the valve cover gaskets. these things will run you 200$ - 300$, some parts, wires, seals & gaskets?, from subaru; some parts, water pump? t-belt and idlers, from the " importexperts" or the like on ebay. happy motoring!!

use 10w-30 maybe?? why is he using 20w-50??

the hub is pressed into the bearings and the bearings are pressed into the housing, all together they make up the knuckle. so you will need to "pull" the hub out before the bearing can be replaced. i'm surprised he could not press it out for you.

there are only 2 things other than the y-pipe you even have to consider and only one is required. 1. required - when you do the swap, you need to use the flex plate (flywheel) off of your 2.5L engine. it matches the trans torque converter and has to stay with the trans. 2. not needed but is nice - the power steering lines on the 2.5L engine work, but there are mid-point mounts that do not match up to the 2.2L engine. so if you get the power steering lines off of a 95 - 98 2.2L engine and swap it as well, the mid point mountings will match up. again this is not required. lot's of people have done the swap and used the original 2.5 L steering lines. the only other advice would be to read lots of threads about pulling and reinstalling the engine so you know what to expect and some tips to make it easier. and take some pics of where the tubes go for reference, that will help. i did a 96 2.2L swap into a 97 outback last year or so and had no problems. all the plumbing should be the same. by the way the 96 i referred probably was not an outback since it came out of an auto trans but that does not matter. it will drop right in. you need to read up on re-seating the torque converter before you install the engine. if it is not right you can screw your trans. there is a great how to with pictures but the last time i looked the pics were gone. search "torqueconverter" and read the oldest first.

26 is great for a daily driver. the only thing you might have done different would to have used an outback auto trans with a 4.44 final drive. it wouldn't have helped the MPG but it might have helped in the mountains. so the next time you have nothing to do .........

if you do find it a little under-powered, you can buy smaller tires when you wear out the ones you now have. dropping down to a 195/70/15 will help. you could even go smaller. but i don't think you will need to.

found this one, price is higher than some others but it is close and has an exceptional warranty. you will need the exhaust y-pipe with this one another $50??. 1996 Engine Subaru Legacy 7 month warranty 161,368 A1HE0286 $650 Johnson Auto Recycling USA-NC(Asheville) 1-800-222-0815 or this one: 1995 Engine Subaru Legacy ran good per tb 154,031 A00028041 $350 Import Auto Salvage USA-NC(Marion) 1-1-800-962-8922

look here: www.car-part.com , sort your search by distance to see what is close. you will probably have to search 95, and 96 seperately, but 97 - 98 will come up together. when you call, ask for the actual year of the engine you found, not the year of your car, and remember to ask if it is an auto trans. that is usualy the EGR indicator. or craigslists, i neded a trans for a 95 lego and got a wrecked 96 for 400$. used the trans and saved the engine for a 97 GT that had bad head gaskets. i sold a few pieces and then scrapped it. there are several sites that will let you search multiple craigslists location at the same time. i use crazedlist.org, but there are others. if you pull and install yourself, you can easily do this for under $1000, probably under $700. less if you do not do the timing belt, seals, valve covers and oil seperator on the rear. but you will want to do those, it's worth it.

did you remove the rear diff? what kind of mileage do you get? any hiway miles?

FWD auto ej18 97 LSi !!

there have been several threads on this in the past. some feel it has to do with the axles. but my personal feeling is if it isn't mounts it is something in the trans that is "grabbing" more than it should. but that it just my opinion based on my own logic and observation, no actual evidence.

it is manufactured by a different company, search "block chek" (no second c in chek). they market to distributors, and maybe shops, but apparently not individuals. no pricing on the website. but they do show the products and instructions on how to use. you load the "tube" with the test liquid, place it in the mouth of the radiator and let the exhaust gases in the coolant push up into the tube. if it turns to yellow? you have a head gasket leak. replacement test liquid available. i liked someone's idea acouple of years ago. put a cabon monoxide detector in a ziplock bag and tape the bag over the mouth of the radiator. run the car at idle and wait. it worked!!!!