johnceggleston

answers to 1 and 4 : 1 - the fuel pump is on the passenger side and it needs a larger access hole. 4 - look here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=808585&postcount=7 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=642438&postcount=6 i have posted this a couple of different times. this one is real simple and to the point, but maybe not the most complete or the most recent. i feel like i posted one just last/this month.

until you inspect the car you will not know, but i doubt the rear diff has been removed. it is too easy to remove the rear drive shaft instead. if you pull the rear diff, you have to deal with the axles, you can't just remove them cause the bearings will implode. so probably the rear shaft is gone, and the diff and axles are still there. but you never know until you look. OR ....... everything is still there and the FWD fuse is in doing all the work.

96 ej 22 is different from 95 ej22, one has single port and one has dual port, and since 95 matches the ej25, 96 is the odd duck. i'm pretty sure 97 - 99 were the same as 95 ej22 and 96 - 99 ej25 as far as exhaust ports go. but i don't think that has any thing to do with the timing kit you need. i'm pretty sure the 96 kit will work on 90 - 96 at the very least, probably thru 98. the only thing that i'm aware of that changed was the tensioner, nothing else, but some one else will confirm. get the 96 kit and go. i think the older tensioners lasted longer any way. PLUS the 96 ej22 is non-interference.

i had a tire guy clean up the inside of the wheel rim where the tire bead seals. my tire was loosing air and there was a lot of crud on the insied of the "bead". that may be your leak area depending on your wheel, mine are alloys. hopefully your front and rear match in size. if you have a GPS machine you can figure out how off your speedo is and guestimate your mileage. or drive a known distance with your new impreza and then match it with you legacy and note the difference or use the tire size calculator and figure the error and apply the to your MPG. whart size tires are you running??

my locksmith swears by teflon spray. but graphite has been around a lot longer. you can probably get it re-keyed for 40 - 50$. the cylinder isn't hard to pull if you have the key. i've posted how to at least once.

so it is an OBD-II car, just not in california.

it makes sense, much better than my idea.

none what so ever unless your cats are bad. you would notice a smaller bank account. go to a muffler shop and see if they can patch it. what is and where is the leak.???????????

ok, i have studied the pic and i had another thought, tell me if you think it has any chance at being right. 2 owners from florida, at some point one of them wanted to or did in fact move to california and since the car was not built to cal. specs, they had it certfied for cal. OBD-I. has any one else moved a car to cal., what is the process, if any? what do you think, flaky or possible???

some one has obviously edited the emmisions sticker under the hood, who knows why. the only thing i can imagine is they swapped the engine and the ECU from a pre-95 car. but who knows? is the car close enough to go look out at? beg borrow or buy a code reader and go plug it in and see what you get. it is perobably a 96 obd-II and the sticker is wrong, but beware!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

if you use the search function here and search "torqueconverter" you will find a great write up w/ pics on how to.

i'm going to have to go with gary on this one. any chance the the throttle body of a DEAD 2.5L engine will bolt on to a 2.2L engine. lots of 2.5s sitting around. i just checked, they are the same.

i am not an expert, but my understanding that the only subaru built in the last 10 years lsd is the WRX (not viscous either mechanical, or clutch or ... i don't really know, but they are not viscous and they are sought after and they are expensive), and the ratio does not match my outback, legacy or GT. in 2001 vlsd became available on outbacks, 4.11 for manual and 4.44 for automatics. by 'o3 they were standard on outbacks and GTs, maybe more. they all bolt in the exact same way and you can mix and match, a 93 will bolt into an 04, no problem.

if i fill up when my light comes on my car takes 14.2 gals. the tank holds 15.9 gal.

bucky, did you go new or used?? and how much?

it's OBD2 or it's not a 96!!!! have you seen a picture of the car?

have you tried manually shifting from 1 to 2? does that make a difference? does it sound like it is slipping when you wind it out?

let's trade. i have a 97 outback limited, ~130k miles auto trans with piston slap, i've had it for 33k miles, timing belt, wp and seals done @ 98k; red paint, good leather, power antenna. runs great but the carpet could use cleaning, good body for it's age, one ding. i'll take $2500 your car. for another 1500$ i'll put in a good 97 (130 - 140k) engine 2.5L or 2.2L engine, your choice. let me know.

i had absolutely no trouble reseating my torque converter after i pulled my engine. i did it several times just to be sure but it is not too hard to do. usually it is not knowing it needs to be fully seated ( it seems to be home when it's not) that causes problems. search "torqueconverter" and you will find a great write up on how to with great pics.

maybe it says OBD-II and dirt is covering one of the Is. my first guess was a hood swap, but a 94 OBD-I hood will NOT fit on a 95. ( i swapped the hood on my 4 cyl nissan truck, the new hood was from a 6 cyl pathfinder. the muffler guy wanted to sell me the wrong muffler. i told him to count the spark plugs.) i've never heard of a 95 legacy OBD-I car, in the US. .... but maybe. .

95 lego L 5 speed has a 3.9 rear diff.

i've never seen an alarm that would not lock / unlock the door. so my guess is that you will not be able to lock / unlock with out arm / disarm. my alarm kept going off when at home so i cut the hot wire to the alarm horn. i finally figured out it was my wife's company car keyfob. her unlock button was my car's panic. i made her quit using it. i haven't had much trouble with it since she changed jobs. occasionally i will reach in an open window and unlock the door and that sets it off. i bought a fob from a member here, 30$ shipped, but i don't remember who, lmdew maybe. i can look in my paypal if you want to know.

iirc from cars 101. the alarm is an upgrade from the remote entry, ie: costs more. so yes, you should be able to add a key fob. of course, remote entry is different that remote start. did a horn sound? my 97 outback has a horn added over by the wiper motor, my 97 GT just has the door unlock, both subaru.

absolutely no idea, my kit didn't have them.

+1 , i've been thinking this for2 days, but i have zero experience with "things behind the dash". but you still need to flush that stuff out of the cooling system. .