johnceggleston

the fuel tank holds 15.9 us gallons. usually my light comes on around 13.5 gals (97 GT) to 14.2 (97 outback). set your trip meter when you fill up and you will start to get a feel for how many miles are in a tank and how many gals you have left. the fuel gages ( fuel gage sending units actually) are notoriously inaccurate. they hit empty at ~10.5 gals spent. you can use thechron fuel additive and it may help. (my 95 after sitting for months didn't register a fill up at all, a bottle of techron got it working like yours is.) used fuel senders are cheap but very likely to be the same as what you have. new ones are expensive.

i know the auto trans senor is located there, is the manual trans?

i doubt it , but if you still have the old one compare them.

there is really only one question regarding these two trans, do the final drives match? the internal gearing is the same. i think the impreza trans number is a typo, should be TZ102Z3ABA, not ...Z3A13A. research the fnal drive for the corresponding cars and i'll bet the part numbers match. look here under "train" when you see it.: http://opposedforces.com/parts they appear to be the same, 4.11 final drive. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/train/differential_individual/illustration_1/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_24/train/differential_individual/illustration_1/

re blown radiator: is the cap oem, did they replace it with a higher pressure rated cap when it was over heating? re repair 100%: reuse the existing, unless they show a reason not to, and advise the buyer to replace all in 75k miles building in a safety factor of 10k miles.

actually i think it was 30, but what ever. they are still $.50 each, plus shipping. i don't know where you buy them, but at advance auto parts they are $1.79. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Oil-Pan-Drain-Plug-Gasket-Motormite_17190165-P_797_R|GRPFILTAMS_160555891___

gg, this really isn't helping me get rid of these drain plug washers.

so buy them from me now and you'll have them on hand the next time you want to change your oil. 5 for $3.50 or 10 for $6.50, shipped.

heck no, i sometimes wake myself up in the middle of the night just to go out and see if i need a jump. i certainly wouldn't want to find out when i was getting in the car to go somewhere.

i don't know imprezas that well, but i don't think a 96 auto had a 3.9, but i could be wrong. the legacy 96 auto had a 4.11, manual had a 3.9. and i just don't think the impreza was very different, but who knows.

at least he isn't break.... i mean, learning on your daily driver.

it should be a 4.11.

year? model? engine? trans?

there is always the chance the engine had issues before the t-belt was removed.

the marks are there but they only match up with the cam sprocket marks rarely , like every 275 rotations. start over, use the correct marks on all 3 sprockets, hash marks / lines, not arrows. NOT ARROWS!!!!! it will run. keep at it.

because you are new, you don't know this: the 96 - 99 2.5L engine had a head gasket problem. the reason the previous owner replaced the engine was probably because the first engine had bad head gaskets. he put in a low mileage replacement which now has bad head gaskets. depending on where you are, the gasket replacement cost 900$ - 1500$. USE ONLY A SUBARU GASKET!!!!!!! others will fail shortly. the other solution is to swap in a used 2.2L engine, those did not have the HG problem. keep us posted.

+1 unless you need it yesterday, i'd call one of the online dealers and give them your vin # to be sure. question: is the pilot bearing the part that requires NEW CLIPS? i have that they are required, but i don't know what for, i only do auto trans.

what brand of rotors are you using? there have been reports of cheap rotors warping right out of the box.

it's behind the engine near the fire wall driver side down low under the hoses.. is your problem more like this? (this is just one of many many posts on "torque bind".) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101613&highlight=torque+bind

if you are selling it it does not matter, the belt is good. now you may be able to get some consideration from the shop in the future. but think of it this way, how many car salesmen are going to ask "WHY" when you walk in and say you want to buy a car. yes mechanics are different, but still there must be some owners who don't drive over 55 and who change there oil at 2000 miles. if you order a timing belt you get a timing belt. that's way better than paying for one and not getting it. and now you get to sell your car and not feel guilty about it needing a belt or having to pay for the service now.

you can tow a manual trans AWD in neutral with all 4 wheels down (or all 4 up), but you will not have any brakes. you do not want to tow with 2 down and 2 up with out removing the rear section of the drive shaft. it will cook the viscous coupling to the rear. the only drawback to the dolly is that you can't back up, very much. what will you be pulling it with.? this may make a difference.

if you did it at 60k you still have 45k before you need to do it again. the maintenance schedule calls for inspection every 30k and replacement at 105k. sell it as is, if asked tell them it's due at 165k. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#2000Maintenance

have you tried pushing the reset button on the wiring harness? it may be hard to find, or tightly taped on the the harness.

having the dealer rebuild the transfer clutch, solenoid and clutch plates is about $1000. i paid a local trans shop 285$ to swap out my transfer extention housing with bad solenoid for a known good used rear housing. i supplied the parts. labor was ~70$ - 75$ an hour. you can get the solenoid and 2 solenoid gaskets (2 gaskets fr the valve assembly needed.) online for less than 90$. the repair can be done without pulling the trans.

does this help? ( taken from the passenger side, strut tower) you you can't see the 3rd leg of the "t" but it's under there and goes to the same place in the other picture.