johnceggleston

ok, it's a 97, is that a ford or chevy? miles, model, trans, recent service, and ... what's it doing wrong??

no leaks?? are you loosing coolant?? how long does it take to over heat??

look inside the trunk for a removable panel???????

for 29$ i'd have a shop break it loose, remove it, wrap the plug threads with teflon tape, and re-torque it to something reasonable that i could loosen. my difficulty with the rear diff plugs was not being able to swing the breaker bar more than 10-15 degrees. unless the car is overhead, you just can't get a good position on it.

this happened to my 95 leg after an afternoon of low low fluid. ( the rear seal went, shop replaced but the idiot didn't put any fluid back in, said the level looked good on the did stick.) i drove it 3 months with no reverse, then swapped in a 96 trans. check fluid level when hot with the engine running, both sides of the stick, the lower reading is correct. i'd check it again when cold, just to make sure the stick didn't fool you and the fluid is at least in the ballpark. the dip stick can be hard to read. start looking for a used trans. ps: mine never got any worse.

95 leg 2.2 auto sedan

yes

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_47/manual_transmission/main_shaft/illustration_2/

97 gt auto wagon (142k) with 96 2.2L (125k) swap. auto trans was replaced former owner, so the mileage is unknown but i assume it's less than 142k. during the swap, subaru wires, ngk plugs, new t-belt, idlers, wp and seals all around. i've only just started driving this car, so my experience is limited, and i don't know how it drove before the swap. when accelerating from a stop up through the gears there is a braking or drag effect when shifting from 2 - 3. under hard acceleration with no pedal adjustment it can last several seconds, in normal driving it just a short but noticeable lag in speed. i searched and found a thread, on target, but with no resolution. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81583&highlight=kickdown i'm very reluctant to adjust a trans that was working ok for the PO, besides i don't think they get unadjusted very often. without any real knowledge, i was wondering if the slight power difference between 2.2 and the 2.5 could make a difference. doubtful. i have the TCU from the 2.2 legacy wagon that i could try but again, doubtful. tps sensor?? thanks, john

the basics, air, fuel , spark? then compression? i your memory of the crank being 180 off is correct, then someone has screwed up something before you got to it.

i assume the crank sprocket does in fact have the key in the key way, sprocket on correctly? what would happen if the camshafts were put on the wrong heads?? if the crank sprocket is 180 off, the keyway will be straight up, i think?

i hate posting bad information, i corrected my post. sorry for the confusion. john

i was doing it by seperating the ball joint from the control arm until recently. now i think marking the top strut bolt and then disconnecting the strut is easier. i used a big cold chisel to mark the edge of the bolt and the edge of the strut bracket right where they are about 1/4 inch apart. i'll add a pic if it stops raining. i don't know about the axle, but i've installed used without ever looking at them, no problem.

the clutch has nothing to do with it. manual trans can have torque bind, but less often and less likely. we need more info about how the car acts in tight turns. it should drive smoothly in tight turns with little or no gas. if you have to goose it to get it to go, describe how it drives. i may be leading you astray with torque bind, but the post regarding power steering problems are much fewer than posts about torque bind. more info will help identify the cause.

yes, fits engine drain plug, auto trans drain plug, impreza, legacy and forester, 93 - 04. edited for correction.

yes , different blank. 13.75$ retail. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_22/body_equipment_interior/key_kit_and_key_lock/illustration_1/ usage: http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/57497AG10A/

i'd jack up the front , start the car and turn the steering wheel. it should work fine. it sounds like torque bind to me. the description of it getting progressively worse seems to fit. search 'torque bind' you'll have lots to read. basically the the transfer clutch that sends power to the rear wheels is damaged and the front and rear wheels bind against each other when turning. would this test help diagnose torque bind in cars with auto trans?, it's similar to the matching front & rear diff check write up in endwrench. may only show severe torque bind, not minor. ?? THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS, BE VERY CAREFUL. (it may be best to have a helper in the car ready to hit the brakes.) jack up both wheels on one side of the car left or right, leave the other side on the ground. parking brake OFF, put the car in neutral and start it. now turn one the wheels by hand if the torque bind is severe enough, locked, the other wheel will turn also.

the don't know if the rear diff uses a washer, does the plug have a head on it, i can't remember. the trans drain plug uses the same crush washer as the engine drain plug. maybe the front diff too. i have some crush washers available if you need them, 5 for 2.50$ plus shipping, ~1.00$. 10 for 5.00$... etc.

when doing the head gaskets on a 2.5 that has over heated, i have concerns about possible damage to the rod and crank bearings causing them to let go soon after the repair. other than just changing the oil, is there a treatment, additive or flush that could be used to help prevent bearing failure?

he meant, he had it towed the LAST time it over heated. that's always the risk on an unknown engine, is it worth the parts?

they're right next to each other on the 2.2, the 2.5L should be the same. see post 14 in this thread re: a 2.2L. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95900&highlight=temp+sensor 2.5 is the same. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/cooling_system/water_pipe_1/

are you using the correct timing marks to line it up?? not arrows but small hash marks, the cam marks are on the front outer edge of the sprocket. the crank is on one of the reluctor tabs at the rear of the sprocket.

the vc center diff is replaceable, you can probably do it with the trans in the car. but if the trans is also bad just replace the whole thing and you are good to go. the center diff is the rear most part of the trans. but the trans itself may not be bad, i don't know what happens when you tow a 5 spd with 2 wheels down and 2 up.

oops

2 & 4 are low, they are on the same cam shaft. i bet it has jumped time on the left side. pull the timing cover off the cam sprockets and check. it's a non interferrence engine so no worries.