johnceggleston

let's see, 400$ 2.2L from seattle or new england areas. 350$ shipping, 500$ install = 1250$, you save 750$. just my opinion.

how much would you pay for heads that have been sent to the machine shop and "reworked" after 'overheating', 160k miles? same for a polished crank? what does it cost to have this done at a machine shop?

you need to rule out the ignition wiring. next time it happens hot wire it from the positive battery post to the small tab connector on the solenoid of the starter, not the big heavy guage one. if it fires then the problem is not the starter contacts. if it doesn't then it's the starter. but new contacts may correct it even with the wiring being less than perfect / original. less juice / amps from the ignition wiring and old contacts combined, may be the problem, correct either and it may be fixed. contacts are pretty easy, but i chose to install a relay, really easy.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=779339&postcount=2 whole thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=779339#post779339

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=804582&postcount=8 i tried to warn you. if it's non-interferrence you might live with it for a while, but your knowledge is fresh now.

that's the kit i bought. the wp gasket was exactly like the subaru gasket. and since i was putting it on a non-interferrence engine, i used the belt that came with it. it has the tensioner pulley, but not the tensioner.

imagine my surprise. this could be wires but it could also be something else. did the hesitation improve when you changed the plugs? i don't know anything about belden wires so i can't say. someone else will. o2 sensor also comes to mind, but you usually get a cel first. no "check engine" light?

the most for sure method i can think of would be to give the dealer parts dept your vin and ask which pistons would fit. 97 piston = interferrence.

subaru wires generally have fewer headaches. if you change them now it should run longer before they give you problems. if you wait, you spend less now, but when / if they do give you trouble, you may scratch your head and pay some shop to tell you what's wrong with your car, 'seems to stumble when accelerating'. how much will that cost? either do it now, or decide now when you will do it, (how many miles, 10k, 30k, more?). most of us drive until the car has a problem, but the maintenance schedule is designed to service / replace before there is a problem, on a schedule. how many miles on the car?? how's it run? recent service? known problems? look online for subaru wires/ parts: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html

year, trans and miles???? have you looked for an engine here: http://www.car-part.com . 99 is an odd duck sort of year, but you might be able to use a 95 - 99 2.2L engine that has egr. the decision you are facing is the reason outbacks with bad head gaskets go for 500 - 1000$. you might be able to find a less expensive solution.

has he tried tapping on it. or pull the fuse, (dangerous driving for young drivers but not so much for us old guys.) it may not be 'stuck' when he puts the fuse back in. i'd try tapping first my 95 used to do this occasionally.

someone thought it was a good idea and did it. until you run the engine or do some tests you'll never know. i would think you could do a compression test with the trans out, but better safe than sorry and wait til it's in.

the trans is on the way out. plan on replacing it. i had a 95 w/ 160k mmiles, the rear output seal in the trans blew and spilled most of the fluid. i paid a shop to replace the seal. later that evening reverse went. turns out the shop failed to add any fluid. i added 3+ qts. i drove it 3 or 4 months with no reverse, the forward gears worked ok. i finally bought a wrecked 96 w/ 125k for $400 and swapped trans. what ever caused reverse to go in yours may be stopped but it may attack another gear. 700$ sounds high to me.

i better google frank butler. i thought this was it: (of course i got it a little wrong) http://www.great-quotes.com/cgi-bin/viewquotes.cgi?action=blog&quote=51288 impossible to copy and paste from there.

mark twain, i think, said: when i was 18 i couldn't believe how dumb my father was. when i was 21 i couldn't believe how much he had learned in 3 years.

dummy question for electrical experts, can you have resistance on a circuit with out voltage? could the guage be looking for resistance with no real voltage being present??

since you see so many engines, you are the perfect candidate. but a few considerations. just because it bolts on , will it do the same job. if it fails, do you want it failing in an engine you just put several hundred $$ of new parts into, plus labor. maybe try it on an overheating engine before you do the head gaskets?

have you double checked the trouble code for your trans. i'm not suire 76 is a valid code.

IIRC, the the old style will bolt on and work in the new blocks. is this true for 2.5's as well as 2.2's ?? i know the wp's are the same are all the idlers the same as well? buy the old style 2.2 kit and then get a "subaru" t-belt that fits??

i understand how to make the blocks, my guess is they are designed to move the top of the struts to the outside of the car. what is the reason for doing this? i'm new to lifts.

can i tow a 86 5 speed d/r in fwd and neutral with the front wheels on a dolly?? with out any damage? it seems like i should be able to, but i need to be sure. thanks, john

i have 2 pdf files erom a esm which may help. send me a pm with email address and i'll send them along. pm sent.

i couldn't find dual port manifold exhaust gaskets at advance auto so i had to go to the dealer. same for the doughnut after the cats. (96 y pipe, 97 cats & mid pipe). but i would have used them if i could have found them. single port gaskets and the one between the cats, in front of the cats should be available.

you'll need to double check this, but i think the rear shaft sections, the part that attaches to the rear diff, not the part that attaches to the trans, i think they are all the same for similar models. any difference between manual and auto is in the front section with the carrier bearing.

you can also look under the hood where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body. if your car has cruise, there will be a pair of them.