johnceggleston

you're selling your car. what are you going to buy / drive?????

did you have to swap the seat belt clip / receiver from the 95 seats.?

it's a manual, no duty c...... ooops. will this work on a manual?? seems like it would.

make model trans miles of car???

edit : no (was yes), see below

i've never touched an forester, but on a legacy 95 - 99 there are rubber plugs already installed for inside rail access making the hitch install possible. usually the hitch maker knows this and supplies the correct parts for the job. is the forester that much different??

how sure are you that the 96 trans is an outback.? whats the number on the bell housing at the starter? does it have two 2s in it or only one? a 96 outback will be TZ102Z2ABA. a legacy L will be TZ102ZABAA, or something close. the last 3 characters don't mean much. have you tried driving it in tight circles at slow speeds to rule out torque bind.?

if your outback is a 5speed and you put in a 2.2, no problem, just wind it out a little more brfore you shift. if it's an auto you may notice a little differencr but not much. if you want to put some of the power back in itwhen pulling a heavy load a couple of times a year, get a second set of wheels and put on legacy L size tires, this will increase your power ratio by about 8% or so.

i can get 40 miles out of a gal. if the last 15 miles are down hill.

first, since the key works the door but only has trouble with the ignition, use a spare key to lock and un lock the door and leave the key in the ignition, turned a little bit so it won't lock. in other words, the next time you get it turned so it will work, do not DO NOT turn it all the way to the off /lock position, leave it half way in between lock and acc. this will make it so you can still start it. then use the other key to lock/unlock the door. yes you need a new ignition lock cylinder, no the door cylinder will not work. but new may mean you can have a lock smith rekey your existing ignition cylinder and make it like new. he should be able to tell you or at least not charge you if he can't make it work. it is surprisingly easy to rekey one, if you have the necessary part, tools and of course knowledge. if you remove subaru ignition cylinders all the time it can be done with out removing any plastic steering column parts. maybe this is true for lots of cars and the locksmith knows how. take the car to one and ask. how much to pull the lock cylinder, how much to rekey? can you make it fit this NEW key i have? oh and buy some teflon lock spray for all of your lock cylinders, it works wonders. good luck.

i'v had 93, 95, 97, subarus and they all used the same key (as well as the same ignition keyway) as my 90 nissan. i don't know if or when nissan changed, or if / when subaru changed.

on an auto trans, the rear shaft need to be there or the AT fluid spills out. i don't know about manuals. seems like it would work if it didn't leak fluid.

keys and keyways wear as they get used. cutting a key from a code for a 12 year old car is likely to produce a mediocre fit. the keyway is worn, the key is not. either cut a key from a used / worn key or pay a locksmith to replace the pins in the key way to match the code on the 'new' key. doors are much less sensitive. i removed a keyway had a locksmith rekey for 20$ about 6-8 years ago. call around.

IT DEPENDS ON THE TRANS, manual trans can be towed with all 4 on the ground and the trans in neutral. auto trans can be towed with all 4 off the ground, or the front 2 off the ground WITH the rear drive shaft disconnected or removed.

95 fronts share parts with the 99 outback, i can't remember if it's fronts or rears or both. the 95 rears are smaller and a rotor, caliper etc swap would have to be done. the easy solution is to cross check the 95 rotor part number at autozone.com and see if it fits the 99.

let me know if you want to sell the outback struts and springs. john

crazy speedo is generally caused by : (not necessarily in this order) bad front speed sensor dirty connections between the speedo haed and the wiring harness / cluster bad speedo head if you have the old trans, try the other speed sensor. did it do this before you swapped the trans. on an auto trans, there is a fairly easy way to check your front and rear diffs to see if they match. 1. unplug the wiring harness going to the trans, passenger side near the fire wall. 2. jack up one side of the car, driver or passenger, both wheels off the ground. 3. start the car and put the trans in neutral. (release the hand brake) 4. rotate one of the off the ground wheels by hand. the other wheel on the same side should match it turn for turn. it will help if you mark both tires at the 6 oclock position with tape. it may take several rotations for any error to show up. this process locks the transfer clutch in 4WD, with the car running the front and rear wheels are locked to the trans output shaft. if the diffs are the same, the wheels turn the same.

some one else will confirm or correct, but i think this means, bad alternator, but check the brake fluid just to be sure. if it only does it when turning in one direction.... probably a bad axle. if it does it in both, i'd be sure to rule out torque bind by driving it in tight circles , in both directions. i don't think the lights have anything to do with the steering problem.

ok slight hi jack. why can't you put narrower tires, 195s on an out back. you can still make them as tall as the 205s it comes with, but it wil have narrower foot print, like the legacy L. this would seem to me to give higher MPG. are differences between the legacy and the outback so great to prohibit this? is the weight and height diff enough to make this dangerous? just wondering. sorry for the distraction.

what's the number? if it starts with 4S3B... then it is the vin number (for legasacys & outbacks), and you can run a car fax on it. i thought the vin# was stamped in to the block on the passenger side at the rear.

FWIW, the bearing in my wife's 97 avalon made intermitten noises. some time a scraping sometime a grinding, no noise at all when i rode in it. i never heard it. she finally had the shop look at it and they thought it was too dangerous to drive. my only experience up to that point was with outback bearings giving a speed related noise as they went bad. live and learn i guess.

http://www.car101.com i think will help.

i'm in for 5... but if you win a bag of candy you have to share.

although it maybe could be done with the plastic shroud in place, it would only be by someone who has done it several times before. there are 3 screws on the under side of the plastic surrounding the steering column. they are recess, you will need a long thin phillips screwdriver. once these are removed, you will need to seperate the top half from the bottom. the bottom half maybe a little tricky, you may need to move, wiggle, the lever controlling steering wheel tilt. be gentle. put the key in the ignition, and turn it . then look on the under side, floor side i think, of the ignition lock cylinder , there is a pin about 1/8"+ in diameter, press this in and pull on the key and the cylinder will slide out. DETAILS: i'm always using a paper clip that i have streched out, it needs to have a very small elbow on the end , about a 1/4 inch, this isn't stiff enough, so it is always a challenge. an ICEPICK with a small hook would be perfect. any key cylinder from 91 - 99 at least will work, also nissan of similar years will work. for 20$ you can have the lock smith re-key the new cylinder to match the existing key. BUT: your problem may be a worn cylinder. not a bad cylinder. for the same 20$, you maybe able to get the existing cylinder re-keyed so it will work with a matching new key. keys and cylinders wear at the same time, new pins in the cylinder and new matching key may solve your proble after you put it all back together , be sure to turn off the virgin switch on top of the steering column.

95 - 99 bumper covers are interchangable, the variations are in the look of each model, outback vs. GT vs, leg L. but they will all still swap around, the bumper cores are all the same. i have never heard of any one comparing 90 - 94 bumper core to 95 - 99. but i'd assume they are different.