johnceggleston

the work to pull the trans, separate the front diff, and reattach is not that tuff, even i could do it. the challenge is setting the clearence and alignment between the pinion gear and the ring gear. not impossible but unless you are very lucky , (or one setting fits all, which i doubt) it is a delicate process. others have done it. i sent gary a pdf file explaining how to. i have since lost my hard drive and the file. good luck.

an observation about swapping a trans and going with a new final drive ratio. when subaru first introduced the 4.44 final drive in the outback in 96, they matched it with 15 inch wheels which had larger diameter tires. the legacy's had 14 inch/ smaller tires and 4.11 final drive. the difference in final drive ratio and the difference in tire size complement each other. in other words, there is no substantial difference in the fuel economy or the power ratio in these 2 tire / differential combinations. this is why the outback has about the same gas mileage as the legacy. if you want more power put on smaller tires. if you want more economy, put on larger tires. but don't expect the car to drive the same. if you swap the final drive and want the car to drive like before, change the tire size to match. one exception to the above statement, the 96? - 99? leg GT has the outback 4.44 final drive and the smaller tires (on 16 inch rims) equal in diameter to the legacy L. this makes it "quicker", more powerful and slightly less economical to run. this is true for a/t , manual trans have different final drive ratios (3.9 leg vs. 4.11 outback, 96 - 99), but the relative proportions are the same. larger tires = more powerful final drive and vice versa. any questions ???????????

and this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=585831&postcount=15

this is about as close as you will get ot understanding the part number. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=581064&postcount=6 plenty of informatrion in the thread it came from. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71754&highlight=tz102z2%2A

suggestion, try swapping the tcu and ecu from one to the other to see if it will run. this is a very long shot and the eng/trans swap may work even if this doesn't. but if this experiment does work you should be ok. this of course assumes at least one of these cars does in fact run. ps, the limiting factor in going from 99 to 00 in an outback trans is the wiring, if the connector is the same that part wil probably work.

if they both have a spin on trans filter it may be ok. the 99 (late) is a phase 2 trans with a different connector from 98. i do not know about the 2000 legacy trans. it should be phase 2 but i don't know. does it have an external spin on filter. in 00 or 01 legacy and outback, used the same auto trans, same part number. this was a first. if the connector is the same, i'd bet it will work, except the final drive won't match.

coming from a "i don't trust dealers" point of view, i would be suspect of their diagnoisis. they maybe covering their a$$ by saying it's the rings when in fact it may be something else. something they don't want to admit. i don't know what, but screwups always try to cover it up. i'd have a wet dry compression test done, maybe by another shop before i did any thing else. how did the car run before the HGs were done? how does it run now? what else, if anything, would cause that kind of oil consuption? does the exhaust smoke.? my caravan smoked and it was just valve guides, no where near 1 qt. in 150 miles. this thing must be laying down a james bond smoke screen!!! or like said previously, they should have done more testing before they did the work.

you might try running a temporary heavier guage wire to the battery to see if that helps. the wire that feeds the cig lighter is surprisingly small. if it does you could run it permanent. i don't use mine enough to go that far.

it is very tempting in a thread like this one to YELL at the original poster that he used the wrong timing marks, it happens alot. it is a credit to this board that all the members who offered helpful advice resisted this temptation. also murffy's law says as soon as you yell your answer, another cause will show up. or is that karma. congrats on the fix, and kudos to those who helped.

try turning off your headlights or heater blower or wipers, that stops mine from beeping.

this is a typo, you are missing a characture after the second 'z'. it should be (if original) a 'tz102z2aba', this would make it compatable with your 97. the final drive ratio is 4.44 on both. if there is not a '2' after the second 'z' then it is not compatable. edit: any auto trans 96 - 98 from a 2.5 outback, GT, or LSi will work.

either your left rear is frozen and is not engaging or your right rear slide pins are gumed up and the pads are draging (usually only one pad is worn, outside i think). is there more rust on the left rear rotor than the right??

there is also the possibility that they just assume they can't read the codes because it's before 96. my son had the same problem with his 95 leg 2.2 a/t. went ot several places and no one could / would read them. ended up going to the dealer. but i agree with you, it sounds like the new code readers will read almost anything.

i have a friend who comments everytime he sees a car fire on the side of the road, "i'll bet he just changed his fuel filter"!!!!

the access plug in is there on 95s but i think the pin configuration is different, standard plug/connection, but it uses differnt pins than on a 96 and later. if you have an adapter for the reader you can pull the codes. but my guess is that you can read the codes using the diagnostic connectors (green?) under the dash.

i saw a recent tv commercial about the new re-designed, inside and out, forester, larger too. any one know the details? is it still the impreza platform or did they jump up to the legacy platform?

so this means all 4 wheels off the ground when towed or all 4 wheels on the gorund (in neutral) when towed.your choice. if your tow vehicle is big enough, a car carrier is easiest, assuming you can drive your subaru up on it.

i'll bet it clicks when you push in the button on the shifter just before you shif. this is standard.

the seal is installed in the a$$ end of the trans. the drive shaft is removed when you do this. you are going to need a larger socket or something to tap it in because it sits around the splined output shaft of the trans. i have'nt done one, but i doubt it's any different than any other seal. slide into place and gently tap it to seat. calling the front end of the drive shaft the male end is a mis-nomer . it's both male and female. male because it slides into the trans/seal, female because the splined trans shaft slides into it.

i think you got that backwards. most manuals were 3.9 and most A/Ts were 4.11. later when outbacks came along A/Ts were 4.44 and manuals were 4.11. but first gens weren't as consistant. but to be sure look here: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.html i used to have a book markj for another forums' post listing all the trans a/t and manual, but when my computer died last month i lost a lot of saved stuff.

i tried, it all depends on how tired & tall you are. another 2 inches would have been nice...... but she married me any way. what a sweetie.

why not just swap in the intake from the right engine. this is bound to work even if it cost a little more. but then i don't really understand what you are trying to do with the exhaust or how difficult it will be.

TZxxxZJEBA is the part number for a 99 (late) outback trans. it was the first of the phase 2 trans in outbacks. ( i think foresters got them earlier?). i don't have any experience with 'oo and newer so i can't comment specifically. but generally when subaru made a change they used it for several years. but in regards to the 99 and later trans. the 'style' of the trans part number (...JEBA) was only used late in 99. in 00 they went with a different par number, different style. the interchange software at www.car-part.com apparently only compares part numbers. it will never tell you a 98 trans will fit and work in a 96 outback, but it does. the question is ... will a 2000 trans work in a 99 (late) outback??? i do not konw for sure, but i suspect it will. any one have any experience here??

i would add, if the drive shaft you are buying has any rust on the 'male' end, common sense says to clean it up with extra fine something or other .

the jeba trans is a phase 2 transmission. it has a different wiring connector and more speed sensors than the TZ102Z2DBA. if you are replacing a jeba trans, you need jeba or later. the earlier trans is not compatable.