johnceggleston

coming from a "i don't trust dealers" point of view, i would be suspect of their diagnoisis. they maybe covering their a$$ by saying it's the rings when in fact it may be something else. something they don't want to admit. i don't know what, but screwups always try to cover it up. i'd have a wet dry compression test done, maybe by another shop before i did any thing else. how did the car run before the HGs were done? how does it run now? what else, if anything, would cause that kind of oil consuption? does the exhaust smoke.? my caravan smoked and it was just valve guides, no where near 1 qt. in 150 miles. this thing must be laying down a james bond smoke screen!!! or like said previously, they should have done more testing before they did the work.

you might try running a temporary heavier guage wire to the battery to see if that helps. the wire that feeds the cig lighter is surprisingly small. if it does you could run it permanent. i don't use mine enough to go that far.

it is very tempting in a thread like this one to YELL at the original poster that he used the wrong timing marks, it happens alot. it is a credit to this board that all the members who offered helpful advice resisted this temptation. also murffy's law says as soon as you yell your answer, another cause will show up. or is that karma. congrats on the fix, and kudos to those who helped.

try turning off your headlights or heater blower or wipers, that stops mine from beeping.

this is a typo, you are missing a characture after the second 'z'. it should be (if original) a 'tz102z2aba', this would make it compatable with your 97. the final drive ratio is 4.44 on both. if there is not a '2' after the second 'z' then it is not compatable. edit: any auto trans 96 - 98 from a 2.5 outback, GT, or LSi will work.

either your left rear is frozen and is not engaging or your right rear slide pins are gumed up and the pads are draging (usually only one pad is worn, outside i think). is there more rust on the left rear rotor than the right??

there is also the possibility that they just assume they can't read the codes because it's before 96. my son had the same problem with his 95 leg 2.2 a/t. went ot several places and no one could / would read them. ended up going to the dealer. but i agree with you, it sounds like the new code readers will read almost anything.

i have a friend who comments everytime he sees a car fire on the side of the road, "i'll bet he just changed his fuel filter"!!!!

the access plug in is there on 95s but i think the pin configuration is different, standard plug/connection, but it uses differnt pins than on a 96 and later. if you have an adapter for the reader you can pull the codes. but my guess is that you can read the codes using the diagnostic connectors (green?) under the dash.

i saw a recent tv commercial about the new re-designed, inside and out, forester, larger too. any one know the details? is it still the impreza platform or did they jump up to the legacy platform?

so this means all 4 wheels off the ground when towed or all 4 wheels on the gorund (in neutral) when towed.your choice. if your tow vehicle is big enough, a car carrier is easiest, assuming you can drive your subaru up on it.

i'll bet it clicks when you push in the button on the shifter just before you shif. this is standard.

the seal is installed in the a$$ end of the trans. the drive shaft is removed when you do this. you are going to need a larger socket or something to tap it in because it sits around the splined output shaft of the trans. i have'nt done one, but i doubt it's any different than any other seal. slide into place and gently tap it to seat. calling the front end of the drive shaft the male end is a mis-nomer . it's both male and female. male because it slides into the trans/seal, female because the splined trans shaft slides into it.

i think you got that backwards. most manuals were 3.9 and most A/Ts were 4.11. later when outbacks came along A/Ts were 4.44 and manuals were 4.11. but first gens weren't as consistant. but to be sure look here: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.html i used to have a book markj for another forums' post listing all the trans a/t and manual, but when my computer died last month i lost a lot of saved stuff.

i tried, it all depends on how tired & tall you are. another 2 inches would have been nice...... but she married me any way. what a sweetie.

why not just swap in the intake from the right engine. this is bound to work even if it cost a little more. but then i don't really understand what you are trying to do with the exhaust or how difficult it will be.

TZxxxZJEBA is the part number for a 99 (late) outback trans. it was the first of the phase 2 trans in outbacks. ( i think foresters got them earlier?). i don't have any experience with 'oo and newer so i can't comment specifically. but generally when subaru made a change they used it for several years. but in regards to the 99 and later trans. the 'style' of the trans part number (...JEBA) was only used late in 99. in 00 they went with a different par number, different style. the interchange software at www.car-part.com apparently only compares part numbers. it will never tell you a 98 trans will fit and work in a 96 outback, but it does. the question is ... will a 2000 trans work in a 99 (late) outback??? i do not konw for sure, but i suspect it will. any one have any experience here??

i would add, if the drive shaft you are buying has any rust on the 'male' end, common sense says to clean it up with extra fine something or other .

the jeba trans is a phase 2 transmission. it has a different wiring connector and more speed sensors than the TZ102Z2DBA. if you are replacing a jeba trans, you need jeba or later. the earlier trans is not compatable.

i don't know if this relates to your situation, but a mechanic once told me to be very leary of suby engines with broken timing covers and/or cam sprockets. he said the cam bearings or 'thrust' something can be damaged and you won't know unless you look for it. i don't really know what he was talking about but i put it out there in case it helps. this guy did a lot of 2.5L head gaskets, but had never done a 2.2 > 2,5 swap. so who knows?

with the drive shaft , both sections, removed, there is no seal at the rear output shaft of the trans. the rear seal on the trans 'seals' to the firest piece of the drive shaft. it is not surprising that with a bad u joint and lots of vibration ATF would leak out. i'd replace the rear seal as well as the drive shaft.

what year 2.2 did you buy? if it's an interferrence engine, 97- up, you might have valve damage. why did you have to replace the cam sprocket?

i have replacment bearings for both the ac idler pulley and the compressor pulley. let me know if you are interested.

larry, in your first post you said the 97 TCU didn't work because the car wouldn't start, did it not turn over, starter didn't engage or would it turn over and not fire? i was wondering if the 97 TCU didn't 'see' the neutral switch. maybe the pinout changed slightly on the connector. it seems the 97 tcu would be a better choice for the trans but would it be more work getting it to run? i didn't re-read the bulk of this thread so forgive me if this has been covered.

it's the TCU codes and from what i've read it's fairly complicated. this is why i suggested the dealer. but if you search and ask some one will tell you how to do it. have you checked the connectors going to the trans? there is a main connector located on or near the top of the trans, passenger side near the fire wall. you might check it, unplug it and look to see if any of the pins are bent. since the TCU wasn't removed, i doubt that the conections there have changed any. check the A/T fluid level, drivers side near the fire wall, yellow dip stick. check it cold first then hot. it can be difficult to read when hot. look at both sides of the dip stick. did the trans run right before the engine was pulled? is the blinking A/T temp light intermittent, does it come and go? as nipper often says, a blinking light is not to be ignored.