johnceggleston

from https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html Search by OEM Part Number: Part number 31711AC011 was superseded by part number 31711AC031. Part Number Search Results No Parts Found.

there are 2 apparent differences between the 95 sedan and the 96 wagon TCUs. 1. the mounts are different. 2. the lable on the main 'chip' is different. the circuit boards are identical except for the main chip label. i believe this refers to the programing. the 96 wagon TCU in the 95 sedan (with the 96 4eat) was slow to shift up, liked to stay in 3rd. i don't know the engineering, but my ill-logic tells me the weight difference may be at least part of the reason. obviously a 97 GT tcu will operate differently than a 97 OBW, both cars have the 2.5L w/ 4.44 final drive. the GT TCU in the OBW will try to drive it like a GT. this may not be drsireable. i haven't tried this yet, but i will this spring. and vice versa. i know you won't blow anything up by swapping, but how it drives may be a little off. my guess is that sedan to sedan or wagon to wagon will be ok. i think some of the early legacys had different final drives for different years which may make a slight difference in driving. check here : http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58%20f69c2cbd and someone else has posted that they are all interchangeable.....so who knows. if you do try it, let us know. edit: i just re-read the original post, it could be LHD vs. RHD. go to www.car-part.com and search for ''computer box not engine'', then transmission and see what part numbers you come up with. there are 4 to choose from, FWD ( 93 & 94 same) = ...AC021 & ...AC600 LHD ( 93 & 94 same) = ...AC031 & ...AC610 LHD turbo ( 93 & 94 same) = ....AC051. RHD = ? you may have to look through several pages to find a listing with a part number, but eventually you will. look at other years until you find the TCU you're thinking of buying. this search process may dis prove my sedan to wagon being a bad swap since the interchage does not reference body style, just year, AWD vs FWD and LHD vs. RHD vs. TURBO.

check the letter near the middle of the vin. eithr opn the dash or on the firewall, pass. side. s=95 t=96 v=97 w=98 ? x=99 ? ?='00

these are the equivilant tire sizes for the stock legacy L tires. it is safer to 'cheat' wider than this than it is to 'cheat' taller, unless you put on outback struts. legacy L, GT (inches) tire size .........height % ..... circ....... radius...... dia............. rev/mi. 195/70/14 ......70 ..............77.7 .......12.37 ......24.75 .........815 205/60/15 ......60 ..............77.6 .......12.34 ......24.69 .........817 205/55/16 ......55 ..............78.2 .......12.44 ......24.88 .........811 http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

there should be an aluminum id tag on the driver side front strut housing under the hood. it will have all sorts of information on including engine #, trans #, and trim, color, etc. your traans number is the TZ102ZACAA number , your car is a 97 2.2L legacy. the engine number will start with EJ22.... and have some alphabet soup after that.

i bookmarked this thread some time ago, but it's been a while since i read through it. hope it helps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59033

i want to know how rick johnson of ccr knew this? who did he learn it from? and what else can we learn from him / them?

now this is a reason for removing the indicator from the cluster. they don't have to stock 2 parts, one for manual, one for auto trans. plus, they were buying more of the one maybe lowering their cost per unit. that must have saved them millions. add that to the "design / style upgrade" every 5 years and presto, no more indicator lights.

looks like they left them in the center making them harder to get to, just like the DOHC.

when thay went back to the SOHC in the 2.5L engine did they keep the plug in the center of the head or did they move it back to the top and angled like the 2.2L engine are?? apologies for the hi jak.

since i'm a autozone / advanceauto kind of a guy, what brand or price level would you suggest. i've been buying the cheapest available for all my cars for years and i only have 2 complaints: 1. they seem to wear out fast, seems like i'm always doing them, but with 4 vehicles it may not be the actual pads as much as the number of cars. 2. lots of brake dust on my alloys. any suggestions.

can you put a washer under the head of the bolt so the bolt is shorter or are the springs in the way keeping you from pulling it together. iirc the bolts have a shoulder so you can only tighten it so much.

i agree with gary, 97 model year is interferrence. but you might check the engine number on the id tag and compare it to a 96 ej22. i thought they started manufacturing 97s around the middle of 96. i doubt they can inventory cars for 9 months waiting on the new model year. but making them 3 months in advance seems about right to my ill-logic. but the id tag should comfirm the engine model. someone will have a 96 you can compare to.

huh? i don't understand?

what did you pay for it?

any 2.5L auto trans 96 - 98 (some early 99s) will fit. the critical identifier is the 7th character '2' in the trans number, TZ102Z2xxx. (trans with a letter here will not work unless you swap in the matching rear differential.) this includes: outbacks LSi GT

i have had a similar experience in my 97obw. but it only happens after a downshift & running in 3rd for a while, usually asociated with climbing hills. it never does it on relatively flat highways when climbing up through the gears. i just assumed it was the TCU 'learning' a new driving pattern. in effect the TCU says "i was going at 3000 rpms in 3rd instead of 4th, there must be a reason, i'll keep it there until i'm sure it does not need it any more." and so it shifts a little later. this may be completely wrong, just my ill-logic, but my ford 350 pickup does a similar thing when i push the 'tow / haul' button. i know this is not the same. but the TCU is supposed to 'learn."

or, since they are both ej22s, swap intakes. but this would really only be necessary if putting the 95 w/o EGR into a 96.

quite right, you have to factor in how long you are going to keep the car. i used to remodel kitchens. homeowners were always asking me how much of the kitchen investment could they expect to get back when the sold their house. my response was always the same, if you sell in the next 3 years, you'll get some, maybe most, of your money back. if you sell in 10 years you'll get all of it back and then some.

i gues you are talking about the harmonic balancer pulley on the crank. i couln't see or find any existing threads on the pulley, so i made my own. i don't know the size, but i guesstimated the size using a mounting bolt from the alt or power steering, went to the hardware store and bought several taps (non-metric) with different thread sizes. turns out i got it right on my first try. bolt size was a very close match and the puller i 'borrowed' from autozone had both thread sizes. kept the one i used and returned the other taps.

correct. you could even swap on an outback or GT bumper, the mounting is identical. there were some small differences made at some point to the doors for safety reasons, but this easy too overcome.

yes, easy. but you'll need the y-pipe of the exhaust that matches the 'new' engine. one year has dual port exhaust, one year has single port.

Meeky Moose Subaru Master this guy is in colorado springs. he knows a lot, but he may do his own work. send him an email, or private message, or both. i think he used to live in VA but i'm not sure. i think i spoke to him about doing a swap for me but turned out i didn't need it.

i don't know what part of colorado you are in, but this guy has a 95 2.2L w/ 125k miles for $525. 1995 Engine Subaru Legacy-DROVE OK, 165ALL, AT-125K, 125,000, #AD329, $525 Blake's Small Car Salvage, Inc. USA-CO(Erie) E-mail 1-800-665-4326 you maybe could get it for less or find one closer to you for less. the 95 is a direct swap, you can also use 96, 97, $ 98 2.2L engines. i found him on www.car-part.com (sort by distance). my shop in VA quoted "a day, maybe a day & a half" for a 2.2 to 2.5 engine swap. but he had never done one before so he was allowing for some 'head scratching' time. he does 2.5 to 2.5 swaps in a day. so 8 hours times the labor rate of 75$ equals 600$ labor, plus misc parts, belts, oil, anti freeze, etc......... you can probably get the 2.2 to 2.5 swap done for $1200 - $1500. depending what your 92 is worth, i think you could use that engine. but that would make the 92 worthless, and the 98 outback would always have a check engine light on. this is NOT the best solution, but you could do it for less since you don't have to buy the engine, 700 - 900$ maybe. a 98 outback with 125k on the engine for 4000$ (2500 + 1500) isn't a bad price, maybe a little high IMHO. but if you drive it for 3 years and sell it w/ 160k miles for 1500$, you'll be ok. chances are you'll keep it longer. sell it like it is and you'll probably only get 500 - 700$. good luck.

he forgot to say "hey you guys, watch this!!! hold my beer will ya?"