johnceggleston

hgave you or your mechanioc check to make sure the final drive ratios are the same. there is an endwrench article describing how to check for matching front and rear diffs. something like: unplug the connector to the trans, jack up one side of the car, (both wheels) put the trans in neutral with hand brake off start the car now when you turn the rear tire by hand the front tire should match it turn for turn. this procedure locks the trans in 4WD so the wheels front and rear will turn exactly the same. it may not work on a limited slip differential. if this rules out the front and rear diffs being different, it has to be the clutch packs/ duty c problem. try the FWD fuse under the hood, pass. side between the fire wall and the strut tower. the duty c part online is less trhan 90$ (besure to get 2 gaskets) i'm not sure of the cost of the clutch discs. you are very close , don't give up now.!!!

yes, 96 - 99 2.5L A/T rear differentials are all 4.44 95 - 99 2.2L A/T rear differentials are all 4.11 96 - 99 2.5L M/T rear differentials are all 4.11 95 - 99 2.2L M/T rear differentials are all 3.9 there is an endwrench article describing how to check for matching front and rear diffs. something like: unplug the connector to the trans, jack up one side of the car, (both wheels) put the trans in neutral with hand brake off start the car now when you turn the rear tire by hand the front tire should match it turn for turn. this procedure locks the trans in 4WD so the wheels front and rear will turn exactly the same. it may not work on a limited slip differential.

i put a windshield in a 96 lego and the longer i spoke with the guy on the phone the lower the price got. he finally said if i could wait a few days he could do it for $99.00. the time delay allowed him to get the glass in from a distributor not a warehouse in the city. you might try saying " well bob over at bob's glass said he could do it for 125$" what are they going to do after the say no, raise the price. you probably should watch them do it, just ot make sure they don't leave any sealant on your carpet.

that would be nice, but the last time i checked, you are only allowed one, so save it until your a little older. but feel free to defrag your harddrive any time you want. they say it helps you access your memory fsater.

if you are driving a 97 outback you have one!! for that matter oyu have one if you are driving a legacy, 95 - 99, probablt 91 - 94 too!!! left side of the steering column, near the lower dash panel. what are you driving??

how old was it when you swapped it out? ps: before i put the screws back in the plastic pieces for reinstalling them, i used a couple of layers of paper napkin so they wouldn't fall out while installing.

they are seperate. the ignition switch is about the size of 50 cent piece but 1/2'' tall. it is attached to the a$$ end of the ignition keyway by a little tiny screw about 1/4' long and thinner than a pencil lead. if you remove the plastic surrounding the steering column, it will be fairly obvious. at no time do you need to remove the "security bolts" that attacht everything to the steering column nor will you need to remove the ignitiopn keyway lock. although, with the key in the ignition and the plastic removed it is easy to do. what i don't know is what , if any, relays may be employed between the actual switch and the starter etc. the plastic on the steering column has 3 screws on the under side. there is also a fairly large 'phillips' type plug for acces to the ignition 'keyway/lock'. remove the 3 screws with a long thin screw driver and gently remove the plastic peices. you'll need to wiggle the steering wheel 'tilt' lever. i had an intermitten problem with my 91 nissan pickup ( notable only because nissan and subaru use the same igmition keyway and switch) and i had to run another wire to the starter. but my truck was a 5 speed, and i never took the time to track down the actual problem. my guess is that i had a bad clutch 'safety' switch. but i don't know, the new wire solved it. good luck.

they should. check an online parts house and see if they list a different part number for manual vs. auto. if the do it's the first i've ever heard about it. they should be the same for the same year. at some point they moved the abs tone ring onto the axle ('00 '01 ?) but that can be removed and it will work. there is a recent post about this.

any suggestions on boots, types, sources, etc. what should boots cost? a recent post commented on the axles for the newer outbacks ('01?) and the boots having more convolutions and maybe being more durable. any thoughts? it sounds like replacing boot is a real mess, but with so many BAD reman axles out there i'd much rather do that than replace the axle if it isn't bad. thanks, john

the 205/55/16 will fit and clear fine as long as it is a subaru wheel or has the same offset. this is the same size wheel and tire they run on the 97 GT which has the same wheel clearnce as the legacy L. the circumfrence of the 16" tire is about 2" larger than the 15" tire. larger tires should give you better gas mileage but slightly less power. if you are now getting 25 mpg, in theroy you should improve to 25.68 mpg with a size change of 2.7%. this assumes the reduced power doesn't greatly affect your 'around town' mileage. making the change for economy reason may be misplaced, which wheels look better on the car?

the guys who are good at head gaskets just shake their heads when we start talking 2.2 engine swaps. they're all about fixing the engine you have. on the other hand when you buy an outback with bad head gaskets and you don't know how badly it was abused or overheated it could be smarter to do the swap. i've heard head gasket prices (you have to do this to do the vavle work) from 900$ to 1500$, 1200 to 1500 more common. and engine swap prices from 500$ to 1200$ depending on the price of the 2.2 engine. the labor to swap should be a day or less. ball park numbers. since you know your engine hasn't overheated, it would seem a good candate for doing the valve / gasket work. if you had a good 2,2 sitting in the backyard that maght be a better solution.

check your brake pads for wear, the caliper slide pins may not slide well, your brakes could be draging. and maybe, but not likely, the tire repair guy bumped it or something. this shouldn't be the problem since you did the pads last year, but i do pads all the time and can only remember one time relubing the slide pins. dumb, i know.

merchants did this to my truck. but since it drives and tracks strait and i drive only once a month, i don't much care. but when i took my outback in i threatened them, and they gave it back right. the idiots who did yours, may know how to operate the alignment equipment, but they don't know $hit about how to align a car. tell the manager if they can't get it right you want your money back, or that you'll take it to a speciallty shop and get it done right and he can pay the bill. when he says no, call the better business bureau.

how does this compare to the volvo engines of the 60s and early 70s? i thought some of them were used as power plants?

some one posted a tip for removing the rear diff. DO NOT spray pblaster on the 2 rear mounting nuts/bolts. with luck, the studs will unthread from the housing allowing the diff to drop down instead of having to move forward the length of the stud and then drop down. good luck.

ok, i'm a dummie, please define 'intake runners'. are these what would be called the 'intake manifold' on a 61 chevy pickup??? i'm showing my age now. thanks.

sorry for all the trouble you're having with your dealer. i guess some are better than others. BUT, it is always a joy to find a locksmith who can work magic. i lost my tool box key to my truck one time. went to the locksmith. he picked out a key that would fit into the lock and then proceeded to file it down while standing at the truck until he got it to fit. presto, a new key. another time, 25 years ago, i locked my car keys in my datsun while it was running. called the locksmith, he used a pick, stuck it in the lock, wiggled it around and presto, it was open. he charged me 21$ (1982). he said it was 1$ to unlock the door, and 20$ for stupidity. locksmiths are great.

i remember from the repair manual that there is a ring/spring clip inside the cup on the trans end of the axle. this is the one you have to remove to re-do the boots. the outer joint doesn't have to come apart to do the boots so i did'nt read up on it, but i'm sure you are right, it can be done as long as you have enough room to get the axle off the diff stub, or disassemble the inner joint. there is a diagram in the haynes manual i think. suggestion, go to the DIY car wash, cut off the outer boot and spray it off with hot water and degreaser. drive it home and disassemble. if there isn't enough room to get the axle off without taking the hub apart..... drive the car till the axle fails. then take them apart. or cut it in the middle zzzand then disassemble the thing.

YES, THE TRANS ARE THE SAAME BUT THE DIFF HAS A DIFFERENT FINAL drive. the ring gear is different, the 95 legacy has 37 teeth, the 96 outback has 40 teeth on the ring gear. both have a 9 tooth pinion.

i commend you for your attitude, it sound like you are in this for the long haul. but save the old plugs for the next time you need them, i don't think they go bad like milk.

sawzall zzz you can remove it anywhere you want.

i agree. but there is a chance that 96 OBS means 96 impresa OutBack Sport, not 96 legacy OutBack Sedan. i would think the legacy outback sedan would have the heated seat option, and therefore have the necessary wiring. but it's pretty easy to check, 2 screws for the console cover, (visable under the arm rest cover for the console.)

correct me if i'm wrong. you are installing a 98 OBW TZ102Z2DBA trans into a 96 OBW TZ102Z2CBA? it is a direct swap. nothing is different. everything on your old trans is in the EXACT same place on your new trans. no differences at all, all the same, perfect match. bolt it in plug up the connectors and put in the fluid. change fluid in 3k or 6K miles (cheap insurance.) good luck, and have fun.

the TZ102z2dba should work just fine in 97 -98 GT and 96 - 98 outback and 96 - 97 LSi, no TCU swap needed. you want the trans to operate the way the one in your car is supposed to, not the way the new trans operated in the other car. refresh my memory, you're pulling the trans out of a 98 outback and installing it in what??

with the flashinfAT TEMP light and torque bind you are sure to have a bad duty c solenoid in the rear extention housing of the trans which contains the transfer clutch for the sending power to the rear wheels. the EWD fuse probably will have no effect on the torque bind. the duty c (pluss 2 gaskets) can be bought at an online subaru parts dealer for less than 100$ the labor at a shop is about 250$ - 300$. or you can go to the dealer and they will do it for 900$. let us know what you learn when you put in the fuse.