johnceggleston

how many milles? they don't always ''weep'', not subaru pumps. i would pull the timing covers on the cams and take a look at the belt. did you replace the 4 pulleys with the timing belt last year? one of those, the toothed one probably, could be going bad. if not replaced last year then that is where i would start. once the toothed pulley seizes, the belt will break. the other smooth pulleys and the water pump will allow the engine / timing belt to continue running, slipping on the smooth surface. at least for a while until the belt over heats and breaks. the only good news here is there will be no engine damage on a 95. or go to the parts store and buy a ''mechanics stethoscope'', less than $10, and find the ''loudest'' place the noise is, that is where the problem is. the water pump will not, cannot cause enough pressure to swell a rad hose. but overheating and age will balloon a hose and burst it. by the way, once it swells, it is a weak point and should be replaced. the fan issue could cause over heating. one fan comes on as needed. the second one comes on when the AC comes on. if the first one was not working right that is probably why the hose was swelling.

is the fluid level good? unless this is a temporary fluid issue, which i doubt, this will only get worse. start looking for a new trans. http://www.car-part.com i drove my 95 with no reverse for over 6 months. you just have to plan ahead.

for a normal operating system this line will usually have pressure, and fuel. (not high pressure, but enough to spew fuel on to your hands and other stuff in the area, use a rag and NO SMOKING.) if the engine has not run in a while the pressure may fade, but if you have been trying to start the engine it should have pressure and fuel. if not then no fuel pressure, no pump?????

almost any dent in the trans oil pan will pinch wires and cause issues. drop the pan, bag out the dent. be careful about the perimeter where it bolts to the trans. it needs to be flat and square. check the wiring inside, look for damage and repair. put it back together with a good quality RTV type gasket product and drive on. leaking anything is a different story, address that separately.

two known noise makers on the H6. 1/ the tensioner pulleys on the front accessory belts are known to make noise as the bearings age. 2/ BUT i bet your noise is the power steering pump. does the noise change as the engine speed changes? the hose on top of the pump, from the fluid reservoir, has an o-ring that ages. and the pump sucks in air as it operates. this causes noise. but i'm surprised a mechanic couldn't isolate this. i would get a mechanics stethoscope, about $5 and listen for the noise all around the engine bay. it took me a while to find my noise source, '01 H6, w/ 157k miles. i only heard it as i started off. once going 20mph? the engine / road noise would drown out the noise. but a $0.50 o-ring and 15 minutes corrected the problem.

i lost a rod bearing at 85k miles in a 00 legacy L wagon. i bought it with 83K last year (11 years old). i changed the fluids, and serviced the trans and the damn thing threw a rod on my first out of town trip. i had most of the service records, there was no apparent signs of abuse, and the engine ran well until it started knocking. it wasn't low on oil, and no major oil leaks. i have heard of other engines, 00 - 02? with similar problems that have not been overheated or had head gasket problems. i assumed the problem was with the bearing manufacturing company. but i don't know. i think i remember seeing that subaru changed the ''angle''? of the connecting rod to the crank at some point in time. would this be an attempt to eliminate the issue of bearing wear?

for sure? so you are looking for a response from the one individual whos has done this odd duck swap? the long blocks will swap, if the 04 auto engine has EGR that will not be needed So you may need to plug the hole in the head. 00 does not have EGR. use the '00 INTAKE and the CAM and CRANK sprockets. good to go.

99 will not work, unless yours is a 99, it is a phase 2 ej22 engine.

just because it isn't dripping on the ground does not mean it isn't leaking. crawl under the car and look for black, wet, dirty oily spots on the engine. it would really really rare of an ej22 w/ 275k miles to NOT leak oil. but for all i know your engine is pristine, so no offense, but until you look you don't know.

if you arte going to pull parts, get a fuel pump. there have been cases of intermittent fuel pumps causing headaches. just a thought.

the oil pump is what gets ''crushed'' when you use the bolts to pull it together. so if the large tube shaft for the oil pump is boogered, then too much force was applied. of course, it could be that the tube shaft is fine but the oil pump is still toast. but checking the shaft is the only thing i can think of to check.

you probably should pull the TC and oil pump shaft to see if the shaft is ok?

if you bolted the engine to the trans then i think the trans is toast. if you just pushed it in and tried to get it to mate, but didn't force it, i would probably take a chance on it. i don't know of any way to check the trans other than to test drive it. how hard to you push it, slam it together?

yes, fly wheel to crank bolts are longer than flex plate to crank bolts. or are you talking about pressure plate to flywheel bolts? what ever you need, ask in the wanted section of the classifieds, someone will / should have some.

the episode at AZ does sound like an ects issue.

i don't doubt josh's info. he knows his stuff, but when i looked for the ring and pinion for an ej22 FWD on opposed forces (''train'' section), it showed 3.54 for the manual and 3.9 for the auto. but opposed forces does not go all the way back to 1990. so i don't really know. and i'm pretty sure josh does. but in the end, the ratio does not matter since it is a FWD trans. it is what it is and if it runs ..........

i can never remember so i don't say any more. i got wrong too many times. turns out that 92 is with 93 - 94, not 90 - 91. from josh's post , legacy central, first gen ratios. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148 now i remember where i read the 3.7 ratio stuff.

you need to stop making general statements about FD ratios. they change. rarely are manual and auto the same in the same year. 90 - 91 only i think. turbos not included. FACTS 93 - 99 impreza ej22 & ej18 auto = 4.11 manual = 3.9 93 - 94 legacy ej22 auto = 3.9, manual = 4.11 turbos may be different. 95 - 99 legacy ej22 auto = 4.11, manual = 3.9 96 - 99 ej25 legacy GT, LSi, outback auto = 4.44, manual 4.11

yes, both of these are 4.11 ratios. but the other trans from the same years (95 imp 5speed and 93 lego auto) are 3.9 ratio.

no, it depends on the year and auto vs. manual. this is possible for the right years, but not for the same year 95 - 00. what year, model, trans, AWD are you talking about?

i took a quick look and this is right. the autos are 3.9. i don't know where i got 3.7 from. on the impreza ej18 side it looks like both the auto and manuals are 3.9. but that was just a glance, i could be wrong. but this makes sense with the ej18. so for best fuel economy, install a legacy 5speed FWD trans.

if this is correct, might there be a ''timer'' in the circuit somewhere? if this were faulty it could leave the circuit ''on'' too long? just a thought.

fwd cars do not have a rear diff, but this would be my guess for the FD ratio of the front diff, but only a guess. i would have to look it up. i do know that SOME of the FWD cars of the 90s, early 90s?, had a 3.7 ratio, which was different than either the A/T or M/T AWD cars. all the AUTO trans AWD cars did, legacy, impreza, ej22 and ej18.

the 97 ej22 has a 60k timing belt interval. so unless it was done just before you bought it, it is probably due. if the belt was done at 120k, you may be 30k past due. but more on topic, does the mis and lack of power feel like the timing is off? is it better at low rpm or high rpm? or the same? if the belt is off far enough, it COULD possibly bend valves. when you finish checking the other easy stuff, you might want to remove the cam timing covers and see if the cams are aligned with each other. if you remove the crank bolt so you can see the ''key way'' in the pulley, (see the ky way and mark the pulley, reinstall the crank bolt.) you can also check to see if the crank timing is correct. crank key way at the 6 oclock position (this puts the crank timing mark at the 12 oclock position), cam hash marks at the 12 oclock position. going this far is only slightly easier than pulling the crank pulley and center timing cover to check the crank sprocket timing mark.

does it have a ''subaru'' t-stat. after market t-stats are really squirrely in a subaru. if the older couple didn't drive it much it may not have been an issue for them. i would look for more leaks and replace any hose in question. drain and save the coolant. check the t-stat, replace if not a subaru part. search for pics to see. and then refill and burp correctly. this is just about the only way you are going to know if it is right. once this is done, you can look for other causes if it still over heats.