johnceggleston

not if the cooler is mounted correctly, on the line that feeds the radiator, not the line leaving radiator. the cooler may ''over cool'' the fluid but the radiator will heat the fluid to the correct temp and feed it to the trans.

this number is useless and not relevant. your trans code number is TZ102Z2DBA. this number can be found on the trans bell housing at the starter and the id tag on the driver side strut tower under the hood. you can use any trans that starts with TZ102Z2xxx. notice that there is a '2' after the second 'Z'. these trans come from 96 - 98 2.5L cars, Outbacks, GTs and LSi. or 98 foresters. the GT and LSi will affect your speedo. you will have to search each model and year separately. look on www.car-part.com, enter your zip and sort by distance. shipping will add about 150$.

+1, try adding 12 ounces and see where you end up.

you need an engine w/ egr. 95 - 98 ej22 car with auto trans. do a search to learn the important ''details''.

items 1 and 4. the left end of item 5 attaches to the top rad hoes.

if the rear main isn't leaking i would not replace it. it isn't rocket science, but some folks have done it incorrectly and had to pull the engine again. no doubt others will say how it isn't hard and give good tips for doing it correctly. but if it isn't leaking leave it alone. any leak you have is probably the oil sep plate to the right of the crank, as you look at it. it should be replaced if it is plastic.

there are 2 temp sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer. you want to replace the one for the computer. this: not this:

item 15 in your pic is item #12 (15 in later years) in the link below. find the part in the diagram and follow the numbers to the box to the left. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_9/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_1/

item #1 - ring-seal - impreza http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_9/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_3/ item #1 - ring-seal - legacy http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_3/

look on www.car-part.com for a complete hub assembly, with caliper. sort by price and go to the cheapest ones. and order one shipped in from the south, a non-rust state. get as much as they will ship without raising the price. (you might ask about struts as well.) you can probably get the whole assembly for both sides shipped to your door for less than $100. start spraying the axle nut and splined shaft now with pBlaster.

i don't think they wobble or vibrate when they come from the factory. the only ones i have seen do that were in need of repair. but that is just my own experience.

in this case maybe nothing, but the action that loosens the balancer will, over time, loosen the crank sprocket. it will hammer on the key, the key way, and the sprocket until it moves off of the timing mark. it sounds like he caught it early enough but if it were my car, i would take it down to the crank, and replace any and all parts that show abnormal wear. i had a 93 that came loose over about 50k miles and eventually quit running when it was out of time. i had a local shop ''glue'' it back together with ''will never come loose'' loc-tite. after i wrecked it a couple of years later i bought a 95 and it too developed a crank pulley wobble. but i caught that one in time and was able to avoid any crank / sprocket damage. his is a 99 interference engine, neither of the ones i dealt with were.

you need to fix this before the timing jumps and ends up bending valves. replace the harmonic balancer, used is ok, and the key in the slot, new is best but any one in good condition will do. and then torque it to 140 ft lbs, (i trust emily that the spec is 127 ft lbs but i always go to 140.) replace the bolt if there is any doubt about it. hopefully you can do this with out removing the timing cover, belt or the crank sprocket. but if not, plan on compressing the tensioner correctly and re-hanging the belt. i don't remember if oil or anti-seize is called for on the bolt threads. or how that might change the torque spec. EDIT: there is a good thread on how to hold the flex plate / crank on cars with an auto trans while torquing the crank bolt, do a search. ''screwdriver flexplate'' i think will find it. if the crank sprocket moves off of the correct timing mark far enough it can bend valves. this is an expensive repair compared to what you are looking at now. ask here or put an ad in the WTB section for good used replacement parts. someone should be able to help for a fair price. good luck and let us know how it turns out.

i think the correct amount is 125 - 137 ft. lbs. i always go past 140 ft lbs. i think the 87 ft lbs is the error . it is really hard to get rid of an error on the internet, or a subaru repair manual apparently. on a slightly different note to those who know auto engineering, is 10% a normal range for a torque spec? or is there no rule of thumb, just a case by case rating?

i think the parts are removable, a screw holds them om. and they are pretty cheap from subaru. when looking for the part number on opposedforces do not mistake the ''rubber bumper'' for the part you need. and there is a left and right. but the parts from the other gen may fit yours. try that first.

in the 90s they started making the next model year around june. i don't know about now.

i went to swap a 96 lego steering wheel onto a 95 and ran into some issues. first they seem to be a little different in regards to the air bag. the 95 has allen type ''security'' bolt heads with a pin in the center. the 96 is a torx . so, where to get the ''tool '' to remove the air bag on the 95? will the 96 wheel fit on the 95? do i use the 95 air bag or the 96? are the air bag connectors the same? any one done this? or should i just buy a cheap cover for the 95 and call it good? thanks, john

the o-ring is shown around the 10 minute mark. hope this helps. fuel pump replacement

the 97 5 speed only has one VSS. but it's failure will cause all 3 of your issues. but my guess is bad wiring or disconnect sensor. do you get mice chewing on car wiring in your neck of the woods?

you are getting 24 mpg, i think the car was only factory rated for 25, 26 tops. so you are not doing too bad. if you have NO power to the rear and NO binding, what possible damage could be caused by driving it as is. what ever is broken has disconnected the rear wheels. if it starts binding while driving like this, THEN you can put in the fuse. think of it as a FWD car with AWD potential. and as good as these cars can be, this thing could blow a head gasket right after you work on the trans. i would drive it for a while and see how it goes. i know you want this wonderful car that you had your heart set on but it may be a good time to slow down and reassess. remind me, what car, year, model miles?

+1, it sounds like you got a bad deal on both the purchase and the repairs. sorry. but throwing more money at the car when you are in financial trouble doesn't make much sense when it still runs and drives. i don't know anything about ''extended warranties'' for older cars, i have never bought one, but you might look into one of those for a little piece of mind.

i have been driving subarus here in VA for over 17 years and only one year have i really gotten to play in the snow. and that was in my 97 OBW. the 95 is really a college kid car, soon to be sold.

the 93 impreza AT awd trans has a 4.11 final drive ratio. you can use a trans from the following cars: 93 - 98 impreza, 2.2L or 1.8L 95 - 98 legacy 2.2L you can not use: 96 - 98 legacy, Outback, GT or LSi, 2.5L (unless you also use the matching rear diff.) some ATs went phase 2 in 99 so i would not go that new, even though the final drive ratio may match. and there will be tons to pick from without including 99s. try www.car-part.com as a source. you will have to search each year and model separately. put in your zip and sort by distance, shipping will run about $150.

never heard of one. i have been driving a 95 AWD with no rear drive shaft for 40k miles, with no problems.

the TCU only reports electrical faults in the trans. if there is a mechanical fault there will be no code. the vss, either one, SHOULD throw a code if bad. have you tried unplugging the TCU and checking the power to the rear then. on an open diff with both wheels in the air, when you turn one wheel by hand, the other wheel should turn in the opposite direction. if it does not, then there is probably some kind of a load on the wheel that is not turning, either a dragging brake or a bad wheel bearing. but if the other wheel does not turn, then the drive shaft should be turning, and it will have less resistance than the other, dragging , wheel.