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it should just fall down. Do you have the sun visors out?

You dont want to run stock wiring with aftermarket lights (any kind of car). Just wire them up with the wiring that comes with it. I have never done this in a subaru, but its super easy. The hardest parts is finding a hole in the firewall and getting under the dash to pull it through (use a wire hanger with the wire taped to it). Mount the switch, unless there is a write up somewhere on how to connect it to the stock switch. You should be able to tap into one of the factory fog light wires for the switch. I'll explain how I did it on another car. There is a relay that comes with the aftermarket lights, it has a power, ground, and switch(12v). You power it off the battery/ fuse box, ground it, the tap the switch into the positive factory line. Hence, when you hit the factory switch, it will send power to the aftermarket realy and wa-la. Just need to find out what wire you need. You should mount the relay close to the factory wiring or the power supply. The lights wont work w/ high beams though, unless there is a way to bypass that (there always is)

Check the Rad. support to see if there is any info about the timing belt. Mine had permanent marker from a p/o mechanic with the millage when the tbelt was replaced

Good to know. I didn't know hot hot these got. I do notice really short warm up times - like a minute, when I use it. I had one one my old gtp but I didn't drive that in the winter, so I am using this as much as possibile. Yea, its a oem heater, thinking about getting a battery blanket, but in actuallity I should just get a better battery - more cca.

Anyone know about the diff......if a new diff is needed I'm most likely out

sweet, thanks guys. I'll prolly get a timer tonight when I get out of work. Anyone know how much power this thing pulls.

Friday night I pluged in my wonderful block heater, and forgot about it. I didn't leave the house all weekend, since I was trying to get over this cold. This morning I came out to realize what I did. My questions is, could I have done any damage to anything?

The only reason why I haven't got a lift, is because there is no "low" in my outback...............man, I can't wait

I like it, not real big on the wheels, but my opinon doesn't really matter as long as you like it. Hell, my friends dont even like my "station wagon" Roads in Ireland are way small, like scary small. Most of the time there is a cliff on one side and a stone wall on the other. I have been there once. My family knows some people over there, one of them being a ex police chief. Well, he was the one that picked us up from the airport. Man that ride was scary, he was flying. He assured us he knew what he was doing, and he had extensive training/experience. He was cruzin, dont know the speed but it was way fast. Blind turn, after blind turn, some sheep and cows here and there.

5mt D/R Gear ratio 1st 3.454 2nd 2.062 3rd 1.448 4th 1.088 5th 0.825 Reverse 3.333 Final reduction gear ratio 3.900 Auxiliary transmission ratio (low) 1.196 ^^^^This is from subaru global website.... 2.2 5mt gear ratios 1st 3.545 2nd 2.111 3rd 1.448 4th 1.088 5th 0.871 Final 4.111 What would the difference in gear ratios from the 5mt - 5mt d/r cause? The final is the biggest difference, there is very little difference in each gear.

It would be a direct bolt-on. But what would have to be customized in the cabin. I assume there would be a shifter for low, so would the floor have to be cut, for the linkage to inside cabin? and then the center console also?

It's not how much the car is worth. What is important, is, how much the car is worth to you.

What?? '96 is still on a cable system

More light (if aimed properly) can never, ever, be a bad thing.

Thanks, I will get some cheap pads and prolly do it next week...... So how do you lube the top pin. I understand that you just pivot on it, but wouldn't it still need to be lubed up....I assume the back are the same. I didn't take the back wheels off since my driveway is a downward slope, and the grass is way to wet to jack up a car:-\

Well, I have done a few brake jobs on different cars. Never a roo. I have no idea how to take the caliper off, I didn't even attempt because this top bolt(pin) has me stumped. Now something I did notice on the left (pass.) brake, which might explain the sounds I hear under hard braking. You can notice the backing plate not attached to the pad, although it is attached at the bottom of the pad. All the pads seem to be worn evenly, although I cant see the backs, and all seem to have a lot of life left. My rotors look kinda beat though. They are pitted and have some very, very, very minor grooves in them....Kinda like ripples if you look down on them. Could this be causing the squell?? How long can I go on these? I am low on cash for a lil while, so if I could hold off till spring that would be great. Once I figure out how to get that top pin off I will take all 4 calipers off and grease them up....pins, sliders, anti-rattle clips.

I don't know how many miles on them. The only service record I have is permanent marker on my rad. support saying "T Belt - 70,000"...... Its supposed to be in the mid-high 50s today, so when I get home from work I'll check them out.

Well i didn't check the pad as it was wet and chilly today and I have a pretty bad cold. I did find out what the unknown squel is. Its my brakes. Now it only last till about the middle of second - normal/light driving. If I touch the brakes while it is happening the squell goes away, let off the brakes and it comes back. I found out by driving on the side of wall, so apparently the squel is coming from the driver side (frnt or back, I dunno). What does this mean? Again i dont think it happens all the time (at least I dont hear it all the time).........I am thinking it only happens when the brakes are real hot. But either way, why would this happen? My brakes dont squel while braking, just when I start to accelerate.

how does the electric clip come off the pump? Does the pump just kinda slide up and out? I have to change one tomorrow on my friends mothers forester.

My firend has a 99 legacy 30th anniv. edition. Its a 2.5 auto with about 130-140k on it. he has had no major problems and has owned it for the last 60-70k. I drove 6 hours (1 way)to get a 96 outback, 2.2, 5spd . It was well worth it.

I was saying now that I am out of the FWD ring, I dont have to do ebrake slides. I wouldn't hesitate to pull it in an emergency slide though. I have only had a awd for 3 weeks, and only had a chance to play in some snow yesterday.

yea, yea what he said ^^^^^^^^^

all the time under hard braking. hard braking = noise dives. I will check the pad tomorrow. If the caliper was sticking, how would I know? I guess if the pad is significantly worn compared to the others, but what else would tell me?

lol, I am satisfied, I am verry happy that I can doonuts - no more ebrake slides for this guy. as for the steering, I had more practice tonight in the dark at another lot, and am now satisfied, since i know how to manuever the awd better. I know i am being paranoid (not this post, but others). I didn't want to take out a loan since I will be going back to school. Since I did take out a loan I am just being overly paranoid. Don't get me wrong I love this car and tell everyone about how much I love it, primarily cause they like to mock me because I am driving a wagon ( I don't take it personally, its just that i was always the one with fast sports cars). They just dont understand functionality/practicality, and how much roos rock

I think an outback would do just fine with a moose test. Of course if you have crap stock tires on it you could get the back end to swing out, but it shouldn't be really hard to correct. Granted I have not had the oppurtunity to do a moose test at highway sppeds, but I have messed around in a snowy parking lot at about 30 and it held up very well for having some dunlop sp40 a/s. If I could think of a place to do something like this at the sppeds you are talking I would go out tommorow (or the next wet day) as you have eroused my curiosity. I have been really impressed with the handling that my outback displays, though the body roll is quite a bit. When I took it on a test drive the guy took me on some twisty road telling me to lay into it, of course I was not going to drive it too hard on a test drive, with a car I have no idea on what to expect. Since then I have driven it hard in the turns and it has blown my mind on how well it performs, this has always been on dry pavement. I taken some turns decently fast in the wet, but never wanted to push it too much cause the dunlops aren't very good, and I either have parked cars, houses, or guard rails too look out for. Just for reference I had eibachs and bilstiens on my jetta coupe that I owned before this, and all my other cars were sport cars but none had suspension upgrades.