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Yea it makes perfect common sense. Well Subiegal wouldn't take my order since the part # was not co-inciding with my VIN. It was supposed to be overnight, but I can get it sooner locally. I hope that this gets resolved with subargenuineparts since they are close till the 23rd because of a racing event. I put in a email to cancel the order since it will do me no good to have to wait to tuesday 4/24 to get the bolt. I know it is the right part # because I picked it up at a subie dealer. O well its holding for now, and I am sure she will cancel the order.

My gtp used to do the same exact thing. I assumed it was a cloged fuel filter. The day I sold it the kid called me on his way home to MI and said that it died. The fuel pump fuse ended up blowing, then it happened to him again a week later. Dunno why this was happening to him but thats all i can tell you from my past experiences.

You have to loosen the alternator bolt? I guess that makes complete logical sense. Man I am a *********************

I placed my order just now - for overnight shipment- for the part # in my previous post. I am absolutely sure that this is the part # since I picked up the bolt -34435AA030 today at my local subie dealer, and broke it when i was installing it. I know i am an idiot. I

part # 34435AA030 ....The local dealer ended up overnighting it since they screwed up the first time. Tip for everyone, dont over tighten this bolt - even if it doesn't fel tight (easy to turn) it is. Check the tension on the belt and if there is no squel with everything on, it is tight enough. If you over tighten the bolt it will snap in half. Even if it is brand new

I came up with a result for a flange bolt....Dunno if this is it. I have a 2.2l so the belt is ps/alt/crank. It is the 3.5" threded bolt that adjusts the tension

I need the part # for the long tensioner bolt. I have gone 4 days w/o this bolt (no car) and today - the day it was supposed to come in the parts guy ordered the wrong one. No, home depot..etc... doesn't have any, it is a special kind of bolt. No junkyard around here have subies. Again this is the long bolt that adjust the tension. JUst a couple weeks ago the oppsite bolt broke on me andf I was stranded (kinda) in CT. I was tightening up the tension a lil bit and it must have been too much since the bolt snapped in half.

Get a rex wagon. they're sweet but i dunno how much they go for. 2002 is the first year

Dont get a phase I 2.5L which i am assuming your 96 legacy had.

yea i can see why you switched if your a baseball fan. I like baseball, but 1) cant listen to a baseball game 2)big Stern + NFL fan. I am contimplating the idea of getting a new headunit, prolly a alpine, although i am a huge supporter of premier. Unemployment is 2weeks away so I gotta go the cheap route. I am thinking of running the bracket from behind the dash - up from the floor.

the 2nd way is pretty much exactly what i wanted to do.....Why did u switch to xm?? where did u screw the metal bracket in (on the car)??

I am tired of having my sirius reciever on my windshield. I am thinking about mounting it to the right of the stock radio, maybe higher. I am just wondering if any one has custom mounted a satelitte radio. I have been playing with the thought for awhile now, just haven't gotten to any hands on toying. I figure I could find a bolt under the center console near the front or maybe a bolt in back of the dash that i could extend a bracket from?? Just looking for ideas. Cant wait till its warm on a day off so I can get at it.

It was just the tension side bolt that holds the alternator in. The bolt cracked so it had to be drilled out. Real easy fix, but I didn't have any tools and neither did my friend (poor college kid, not into cars).

Thanks everyone. I went to Voight thanks to Paul's advice. they got me in and out within 3 hrs. I made it home in time and everything is good. Thanks again everyone.

just found out what exactly is wrong.....the alternator tensioner bolt is broken, worst part about this is the bolt is still inside the alternator hole. No way i can get it out with the lack of tools i have(ez out). Now i am wondering If i did mess up the ps pump while driving on this, only maybe 2 miles. Funny, the entire alternator has about 1 inch of play in it and i didn't even notice till now

alright, i went out to look at it again.....How do I install the new belt, I have never delt with a tensioner set up like this one. I hope i can find a belt small enough :/

I have no tools, and neither does my friend that lives here so i am kinda screwed. Anyone know what size belt i would need, and if i absolutely need to remove the pulley? thanks for the help

I figured that it was the entire pump binding up....anyone have any idea on a price range at a dealer, for the pump and labor??

So I am 6hrs away from home kinda have to be home wed. night. As soon as I arrived in Bridgeport, CT my power sterring failed. Well I am now getting a huge screeching sound coming from under the hood at all ranges of the rpms. There is fluid in it but when i turn the steering wheel the ps pulley slows to an almost stop, my alternator light comes on also. First what is the problem? 2nd - anyone near bridgeport that could help or recomend me somewhere....I am prolly going to the dealer early tom. morning.

Sirius is the way to go. Awesome selection of music/talk/entertainment/sports. Join the revolution

2.2's are highly reliable (96 and older are non-interferance) and manuals are more reliable than autos. I would hold out for a 2.2 if I were you. I did. I paid $4750 for my 96 leg. outback 113k 5spd w/ leather and cold weather, near perfect cond. just 5 months ago. I even traveled 5 hours to pick it up.

Just get some 6x9s for the back deck

Fact: Underpowering speakers will cause crackling. - I have now done some research on 6.5's and most rms between 5-40 so you will be fine. Crutchfield has a set of pioneers for $50 that will fit perfectly, although it may require cutting the back of the mount out to allow for the depth of the new speaker.

rms is the wattage rating for the component when it is at its optimal clarity/performance. If your changing your speakers only then dont go very high in wattage. Your factory deck is only kicking out like 10watts at most so you will be severly under powering your new speakers, which means they will crackle and barely even work. I highly suggest you get a new head unit first.

Dont spray your speakers w/ anything. Buy a deck first and foremost. The new head unit will give you cleaner more powerful sound, with more audio controls then your factory head unit. Then if your still not happy buy speakers. the speakers in the doors are small so they are not that expensive.