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Apparently the site is under construtction. I am almost positive the front tow hooks are supposed to be removed ( I think alldata had it). Why aren't mine removed??

So carfax says that I have no open recalls, which I believed, at first. After a moment of actually thinking (6 months after owning the car) I still have my front tow hooks. Aren't these supposed to be removed according to recalll procedures ??

Well after some investigating, and adjusting, I figured out what the problem is. The dis-engage button will not fully pop out which means that the arm will not touch the "clicker wheel" therefore not locking. I have to pull the button out for the ebrake to work. Do I need a new ebrake handle?? It seems that there would be a spring in it but I couldn't find it.

It goes up maybe 5-7 notches. Thanks, I'm headed out there shortly to see whats up.

Yea car has been NY-Mass-NH-NY, so its had its share of salt. Hopefully it wont be raining tom. so I can check it out. I was thinking it might be in the car, like the little clicker wheel (if it has one) is off track or something.

So this just strated today. I noticed this morning I had a very hard time pushing the handle button in, therfore not releasing the ebrake. It finally went in and I released the ebrake. Now tonight when I get home I had to pull the ebrake up (no clicks) and it wouldn't lock. So I let it down and pulled again (with clicks) and it locked. I did this a few times to rule out a fluke. So in shorter easier terms, I have to pull the ebrake up 2x for it to lock. Whats the deal?

Do you have at least a half tank of gas. Could be a failing fuel pump

p/s pumps don't usually go bad on subies (or so I've heard). They are expensive. If this is your problem then your going to have to take the hit, or find a good one at a junkyard. Check your tension on the belt before anything. Whats the car??

Auto's are more problematic than standard by default. Take really tight figure 8s in a parking lot and see if there is and torque bind or clunking. I think it has a 1.8L, I know nothing about them.

This happened to me a couple months ago. It is the belt. When mine went bad for no apparent reason (like you) it was a broken alternator bolt. The bolt broke while I was driving, and I lost p/s and the brake light came on and there was some serious squelage going on. best of luck

I dont even know where the light is....does the little gas pump icon light up?? I was starting to think i didn't even have one till this topic came up.

I have a 96 obw also. I have let the gas get pretty low and never had a light come on.

You could use an impact wrench on the top nut and not have to worry bout a thing. This does work, I have done it, w/ no ill effects.

I washed them w/ dish soap after I polished them. I'm pretty sure I just suck at painting. I'll try to sand them down and clear them up AGAIN:mad:

I found plastX at advanceautoparts, I used it as a polish after I had sanded them down. This is prolly why it didnt work well for me.

Make sure you do not put the power and the RCAs on the same side. You could get some serious engine noise if you do. Its always a safe bet to run the power and rca on different sides of the car.

Thats wild, never thought it would effect the beam pattern that drastically. Stock lights do have a clear coat on them, as far as I know. After all the post that I have read, I wanted to put clear coat on the to lessen the occurance of yellowing. Everyone says that they will yellow in a few months w/o clear coat. ??????????? btw: I used platsX before the clear coat the first time. I actually found that a polish I bought from wally world worked better, its made by "kit" and is just simply called "scratch remover". My lights looked like yours before the clear went on

Sweet i'll take em out in a couple days to sand the clear down. Thanks

get some scorpion springs. I read that they give better handling, and you'll gain a couple inches.

All my yellow and cloudiness was gone after I sanded and buffed them with polish, they looked brand new. The clear coat went on really bad, it makes it look cloudy and it feels very rough when I rub em. Its such a long process, I just want it to be over.

OK I figured it out, I am the worst painter ever. Now do you guys think i could wet sand the new clear coat w/ 2000 grit without having to do the whole process again, and keeping the clear coat intact??

Yea its a pia....I just sprayed one headlight, ****, I am so mad. Came out like poop again. I am going to go get regular clear coat soon and spray the other to see if I get better results.

I'm not sure on the differences in DOHC and SOHC in the 2.5L...but phase I is the HG problems and I belive they ranged from 96-00/01

So as of right now my headlights are in the fridge.... This is my second time, in a week, since the first clear coat came out awfull. I have sanded, buffed, and washed with dish soap so far. I noticed that the headlights lost a lot of thier clearness after I washed them. Should I buff and wash them again?? and Does it matter what kind of clear coat I use?? I have duplicolor acrylic enamel, should I be using a different kind such as: acrylic laquer or just plain ol' clear coat?? Thanks, I don't want to go through this process again for another couple of years. Got make sure I get it right this time.

looks great