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...or the 172k without changing the timing belt

I went below the E line in my outback, with a gallon of gas in the hatch incase I did completely run out. Well I couldn't take it, I filled up after 20 miles of driving on the E line and a lil below. When I filled up it took 12.x gallons, so you cant really go by the E line. This was also brought up in the low fuel light thread.

You can usually flush the drain lines with a drainX or something. Even a big wire or cable like 4ga could be shoved down the tubes if there is a blockage. Back to the topic at hand....Right 15%, I always think that it is more since all the post on here, of course there are millions of people that don't post here and don't have the problem. My friend for instance has 120k-ish on his '99 legacy and had no problems. He doesn't even keep it well maintained.

Heat up the engine for a few minutes. Some people say let it run incase you hit something sensitive, since you'll know right away. I turn mine off and just avoid blasting the electrical compontents directly. Your engine bay gets soaked when it rains so it can handle the water, just not a direct blast in the alternator, coil, connections... I use simple grean or engine brite, any good degreaser should work fine.

OUtbacks dont have the tow hook recall. I think the subframe recall is something to do with a faulty weld. I didn't think 2000's were subject to the coolant addidtive. I thought this started in '01. With '00 still having the internal leak?? Manual trannys are simpiler and more reliable by default. The autos can develop a torque bind, but the manuals are sensitive to the gear oil you put in it. The 2nd and 3rd grind are common. There is a clutch shudder up until '02 (i think)....no biggie, just replace the clutch with a new version exedy clutch, when the time comes. Dont worry about the recalls, if or when they are fixed your all good

Windshield can be replaced by insurance if they are heavily scratched, not even cracked. I would definately replace it, windshield are kinda important. In NY you can't pass inspection with a cracked windshield

I believe that the front one has control on the engine, while the second is just to make sure the cat is working. Wait for someone to verify this, as I don't want to be to blame for a wrong $100 part.

Thats a nice car. Wish the g/f would go for a wagon, this would be hers

Wow that looks super easy for a 2.2L. So now I need a new hatch handle and bracket, and a iac gasket when I go to the dealer monday (praying they have this stuff in stcok).

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm Thats a lit of the recalls for a '97 outback. You could very well have a ok T/B. Just open up the pdf document on the T/B case and it says...there may not be a sensor in the throttle body. So if you have the sensor then you dont need it to be fixed. I saw nothing about the alternator recall, I have it on my '96...maybe in '97 it was fixed

Dealer can tell you if it has been performed. www.my.subaru.com also works - prety sure you have to register, but thats not a big deal. I'd say go to another dealer. What exactly is the recall on the T/B?? The alternator has to be replaced no matter what, unless it already has. I don't know the details on the T/b

I dont exactly understand what the $900 is for....to put the bumper on? to repair and install it?? You could find a bumper on ebay, prolly in the same color if your patient. It should be fairly easy to put on - you could do it yourself with some simple tools. If they are saying it is $900 use it to your advantage...talk them down. Then fix yourself for at most $200 (new/used bumper), or just slap the old one on.

They will definately be able to do it now. So anytime you have another code go there. Autozone, advance autoparts.... Its prolly the original sensor. I would replace it. The sensor alone cost in the $100 range, so its pricey but you can do the work yourself. Get a oem sensor. I dont know what the idle control unit is.

Did you put in a new o2 sensor? or knock sensor? Maybe crank postion sensor? The dealer should have to fix the alternator if the recall has not been preformed. I dont know abouth the throttle body - that might have to have a defect in order to fix. Im almost certain the alternator has to be replaced, if it hasn't already.

I did a lot of research before buying a subie, granted this was 8-10 months ago, but I dont remember anything about LSD being an option in the early outbacks. If so, I would have looked for a outback with one. I am happy I dont have one now, but kinda wish I had an auto for offroad purposes.

I was going the right way, and I didn't have a open end wrench in that size (17mm iirc). So get this..When I reinstalled the front pass. caliper I depressed the pistons to make it easier to get on. I then sucked some of the brake fluid out of the resivor and refilled with new dot4. Now the brake pedal feels spongy I guess, never had a spongy brake pedal, but I think this is it. The car pulls way left (driver side), when I brake hard at high speeds. The brake pedal feels like it goes all the way down before anything happens (at any spped). Did I get air in the system? How?

I need a cordless impact, or a air compressor and air impact.

Goodyear shops have a crazy good alignment track.

Are the gear ratios the same as USDM?? I think I remember reading that the gear ratio has to be the same in the front as in the back. I really know nothing about gears and trannys, but it seems logical.

I dont know if I would consider it an upgrade. Depends on the 2.5 your putting in there. If its a rebuilt or had h/g done, then good. If not, then stay with the 2.2 for a couple hundred miles.

I concure with all of the above. I'll add in Oil pump failure. People have said that the original oil pumps can handle the 200k range. If its still the original then I would seriously consider changing at the next convinent "work on car day," although you just did replace the w/p.

Yea I rotated it up and banged on it for a good 5 minutes.....nothing happened.

After any suspension removal/installation you have to get an alignment.

Tried for a baja, but she thinks they are fugly. I like them alot.

So I definately could not get my front pass. caliper off of the top pin. It spun in unison with the caliper and the bolt that it goes into. Does this mean a half frozen caliper?? I coultdn't get the caliper bracket off either (tried after pin problem). The top bolt is to close to the steering knuckle to get a rachet close to. Using an extension on a tough bolt doesn't work, pb blaster didn't help. I don't even think I'm going to bother with the others/ My pistons are very rusty, but the seals seem to be ok. Is this going to be a problem?