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search for andyjo.... he has had a lot of problems IIRC

I'm about to replace my clutch ('96 2.2) with a exedy OE clutch kit. I came to my conclusion thru searching, and asking.

Yea, thats prolly the worst thing you would want to do. If it did work then be happy it did, but learn to drive correctly. Its basic logic, when you're in neutral the tires have no power/control, hence the reason you go around a dry corner in gear. Same applies for the snow/ice. I know in personal experience that I lost control when in N. I was shifting very slowly because of a 2nd gear grind, So while the clutch was down my car got completely sideways, shifted into 2nd and regained control.

What . The 50/50 is front to back when people are refering to manual awd. So I don't really understand your statement. I have had all 4 spinning on ice, and front and back spin. so how do you say that if one slips then the rest stand still? And for the question at hand. I would rather have a auto for offroading, but love my 5spd that has gotten me thru some pretty muddy stuff, and the snow is a lot of fun.

On my '96 the wipers are different lengths

Definately a vac. leak. Look for hoses not connected, if that doesn't work get some starter fluid and spray the vac hoses

Outback Sport. Its a year newer, but if they were the same year i would still say OBS

If your parking lights are staying on all the time, hit the switch on the steering wheel. The parking light switch on the top of the wheel. The lights staying on has nothing to do with the electrical system, besides the fact that it drains your battery.

tighten the nut on the top of the arm, don't adjust anything, just tighten it. Its prolly loose

brakes are way cheaper also. Engine braking going around some knarly turns is fun though

Thank you, thank you, thank you......This is exactly what i was looking for. Well, decision made. I am ordering a oem replacement. It is going to be mostly daily driven with the weekend offroad cruises. Gonna call Jamie in a week and order a 18wheeler worth of parts

Since my last attempt was foiled. I'll try again. Are you guys running aftermarket performance clutches. Or sticking with OE clutches. I dont want to know anything about swaping to an xtr clutch. I am talking, more grab from a performance clutch kit like clutchmaster, or are the OE's able to hold up when wheeling thru mud, snow, rocky climbs (not rock crawling - I do have a obw:rolleyes: ), etc... I am thinking of going with a clutchmaster stage 1 kit w alum. flywheel. But dont feel like being a $550 ginea pig, when a oe kit and flywheel would be $200+ cheaper

completely off topic here....but what the hell Audis are junk. Its kinda funny, I was doing a lot of research before my subaru. I wanted a audi wagon, a4, a6, avant.... Well they are nothing but problems. I had a 85 and 86 jetta (German built)at this time and a corrado. (Just so you know I am not biased). When asking about all the problems the a's have, all the audi guys say if you cant afford to own an audi don't buy one, HA. I cant afford to keep the ****er running, buying one isn't the problem. That TDI on ebay......who knows what kinda problems he has had with it in the past 9yrs. A diesel engine should last well over 300k. Its all the bs crap that goes wrong.

VW quality went down in '87 when mexicans started to make them. Nothin racist here, just facts. Diesel subaru would be the ****. Now I have something to look forward to buying in 8-10 years when I give up the obw.

This means to do it in conjunction with what has been previosuly stated

might wanna change the rear diff fluid also. Its way easy to do and only cost $10 for a bottle of mobil 1

Subaru drivetrains are loud. Even on my g/fs 05 legacy. Watch what you put in your tranny, do a search on nasoic for "uncle scotty's cocktail." You can search hear but everyone is split on what to use. Use mobil 1 in the rear diff. The latch is super easy to fix and cheap, all you need is a new bracket and a new handle. Dont let it go to long it will infect the guts. Also, the paint will be pretty rusty but a clay bar does wonders.

So tommorrow I need to drive the guy around. He couldn't feel what I was talking about.

So I decided to take my obw into the shop. Only for the "bucking/bumpy" and jumpy feeling in tight turns feeling that I stated in a post a couple weeks ago. The theory I am going with (thanks to nipper) is a bad center bearing. I guess I will find out soon enough. I have doubts that they will even feel what I feel. I figure if the g/f can feel it a mechanic better be able to. As I was walking out he said that it could very well be the worn clutch being out of balance. I'll update once I find out more info. Now with this being said, and now, kinda disproving my theory is.... The center bearing is actually a metal piece of the driveshaft?? I am really unclear, but after a google, I am leaning towards this. I have been thinking that the center bearing is actually the rubber "bushing." If it is in fact part of the driveshaft (metal), then I am wrong. There was no free play in the driveshaft itself, only in the rubber bushing that supports the driveshaft.

I say definately fix it right away. With nothing in that spot you have a hole on the top letting anything in, snow, water, dirt....

sucks man.....got any pics?

Do a search. get radio shack bulbs. its super easy, well at least it was on my obw

give it time my friend. jeeps are over rated. dunno where to find the big ones, did a quick search, but nada.

Love it. It needs a clutch, and some leaky seals replaced but at 120k its to be expected. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/841919/1