
fnlyfnd
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Everything posted by fnlyfnd
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Well after running mt90 with minimal problems, I changed it because its not good for the diff. Now I am running uncle scottys cocktail but I get a faint whine when acclelerating (most of the time), and 2nd gear is a PIA to get into. Now I am going to change it again, prolly setright's suggestion of valvoline synpower. what do u guys think?? setright do you use this straight? how is it in the cold?
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RC instructions are way too inacurate you forgot: extend your arm with an open grip. grasp the handle of the phillip head screw driver. close your fist around the handle. Bend your arm at the elbow and retract your arm. Aim your eye sight at the center of the unfortunate screw. Extend the screw driver to fit percisely in the "x" pattern of the screw. Once in, twist your wrist as if you were unscrwing a bottle top. keep this up until the screw is fully protruded. Once the screw is dislodged extend your other arm (don't drop the screw driver) and open your hand. Place your index finger and thumb on each side of the screw. Grasp the screw. Pick up the screw an put it in an important place (your choice). Follow these directions for the second screw. And all others after.... Now back to seriousness.... Just stick a flat head (skinny) screw driver wherever you want to pop out the plastic, make sure there are no screws holding it in. If you break something you can always get another cheap one from ebay or a j-yard. This is how I learned, and have done many installs since (w/o breaking stuff). You're prolly going to have to shift into "1" to pop off the center trim. Once the center is poped off you should be able to pull the center radio trim piece off
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new cluth, flywheel, and cable (exedy/genuine subaru). I am still shuddering slightly in 1st, and when downshifting w/o rev matching. I am going slow enough to not have to rev match, but the clutch shudders for a couple of seconds, then grabs. What should I do? Does the clutch cable need better adjustment? When I am bringing the clutch up the clutch will shudder when I first hit the spot. Then when the clutch is brought up just a bit further it will engage smoothly. This is why I am thinking better adjustment. ??
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1700 includes new genuine subaru parts and installation: flywheel clutch kit VC gaskets rear and front main seal cam seals oil seperator plate timing belt and tensioner v-belts oil pump oring water pump and thermostat clutch cable timing cover gaskets All new....and heat shields are now tack welded so they dont rattle anymore
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I'm home...
fnlyfnd replied to nipper's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
....but the 2006 has 1.1" more ground clearance. -
speakers
fnlyfnd replied to pamike's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
http://www.crutchfield.com -
That sucks man. My cousin just hit about 240k on his '99 taurus and blew a head gasket. He had a severe tick happining. I had no faith, but after putting in some stop leak from autozone, and chaning plugs and oil, and driving for a week - no more tick and no more HG problem. Amazing. (sorry for the run-on)