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been there done that a few times Water is safe, just as guns are safe. It all depends on the user

I gotta say I am kinda scared to do this. I'll be doing it next weekend when I am home (parents) where all my tools are. I have been running 93 after relocating the knock sensor. It's like a new car with that setup. But, today i put in 89 and the cars is pinging under heavy load. I've seafoamed a couple times, fuel injector cleaner a couple times. Apparently they didn't help, so I am going oldschool and using water. I got this idea from Blitz in a thread from awhile ago. Thanks Blitz. Should I change plugs or oil after doing this? I know to keep the engine running after I am done, and take it for a ride.

Gore has been concerned with the environment since the early '80's, maybe even late '70's. Not trying to defend one side or another, in fact I am not defending Gore. Just simply stating that he has been concerned longer than most think.

Rapp is a good dealer. Nice find, post pics when you get it

dealer or private...if dealer, who? LL beans are sweat.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Don't do this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I was thinking it was a mount of some sort. Maybe a bushing for some suspension component? How do I test? - It would be wonderful if I could lay under the car while someone was driving.

It occurs when I let off the clutch usually in 1st (just starting to roll) or in 2nd under the same circumstance. Sounds like it is coming from the pass. side but it may be dead center under the car. I have actually got it to occur when traveling slow in 2nd and hitting the gas. It doesn't happen every time, but enough to make me concerned. It does happen every day (3-4 as of now). Sounds like a metal clunk.

I am almost certain that I read in a thread, on here, that one will be ignored in certain situations. I know it seems logical that both work in unison, but I swear I read about it.....Maybe it had to do with closed or open loops...I dunno...

So when does this happen? I cant find the thread that I saw it in

Yea, thats right it switches from O2 to MAF sensor, not MAF to Knock. I knew something didn't sound right.

Good to hear!!

When does the computer change, from taking readings, from the Knock to the MAF??

The thing is (why I haven't replaced it YET), it looks fine and no CEL. I cleaned the contacts, and inspected for cracks a couple thousand miles ago.

Not that I know of. I've never seen a "cel" while driving. Would you get a power spike around 4k? The spike never happens below 4k rpm

Well if anyone has ever driven in a real v-tec honda, that is what my subie is doing. At the low 4k rpm range the power spikes and the car really picks up. Why? Power is at its highest point around 4,400rpm according to edmunds- Show me a power curve please, because mine is not as smooth as I would imagine the engineers made it. Maf? Knock sensor - very possibile but why 4k and not 3k? I do get a stumble in the 2k range which I believe is the knock sensor. Fuel supply/lines/filter(12k old)? Timing belt new ~6k ago - could a jumped tooth cause this? Clutch ~6k ago - maybe adjustment needed on the cable because it is possibily allowing the clutch to slip until I get up to 4k??

As far as the VW quality dipping....it happened when they moved production to Mexico in 1987. The car is a 2.2L if it has a manual trans (1996 only). Many will argue that this is the best/most reliable setup. Check the axle boots to see if they are torn. Pass. side inner will go first because of the cat heat. Swapping an axle is extremely easy. Working on this Subaru in general is extremely easy.

The shop suspects a bad CV. I don't know if the checked for a loose caliper bolt - I will.

No loseness in the wheel. Brake pad have a fair amount left. Could be a sticky brake. I am taking it t the shop tom. to see if they can figure it out. Today: The sound happened today while making a left turn (after ~10 min on the highway). The sound was consistant no matter the direction of the wheel (sounded like thin-hollow type of metal scrapping - wasn't "screechy" but more "crunchy". When I jerked the wheel to the left sharply, while slightly turning left, the pain subsided to its normal-ish faint "ssssh, sssssh, ssssssh" (this was at low speeeds in a parking lot).

After reading up some on wheel bearings, I think my problem is a wheel bearing. After my move to Buffalo (~2hrs at highway speeds), I pulled into the parking lot to notice a horrid sound coming from my wheel, no matter which direction the wheel was turned. (Like a loud screeching/scratching) I have a couple questions: Could the new axle (I just installed) cause a 120K wheel bearing to go, since the new axle is tighter?? Should I (the shop) really replace both front wheel bearings?? -I am a broke college student that just moved w/ no tools or space, but everyone (on the boards) seem to say replace both.

It's terrible. Window frames...come on Subaru your losing it. Still looking forward to getting that '06 legacy gt WAGON, someday, when it is 10yrs old, and has 100k on it...

lol

I have had bad cats (2 diff. cars) that didn't produce the rotten egg smell, or any smell for that matter. Not saying if this is your problem or not, just letting you know you could have a bad cat w/o smells.

what does that do?

Relays are good, and the fan motor is good. I am confused though, after looking at the haynes manual. It is the driver side fan that doesn't work (Hanyes describes this as the main fan), but it is the Sub-fan fuse that is blowing. ????