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good luck dude, and make sure you take lots of pics.

I think thats a lil much....2x a yr alignment and balance. If the car goes straight and doesn't shake I think you're alright. No as far as rotation yea every 2 oil changes espeacialy with awd

hahahaha....broken exhaust hangers, need to be welded back on. He said the wheel bearing should be good for antoher 10k before it starts showing signs of wear. I got under the car and didn't notice the hangers, but it was cold out and I didn't like laying on the cold driveway.

uncle scotty's cocktail sucks, dont waist your money...especially if your car gets cold

The front looks butt. The rest of the car is same as last yr, so thats good.

disk in back. If it's nice tom. I'll throw it up and do some more investigating

So I developed a grinding type sound whenever I turn right. It only happens if the wheel is turned far enough, like a half turn, and usually needs some kind of speed. I can't figure it out. It sounds like its coming from the back, and devloped after my last time off roading. When I go in for an inspection I'm going to have them look at it, just wondering if you guys had any ideas. I was maybe thinking that the strut is rubbing on the tire? I'm pretty sure its original suspension @ 121k. How would I test this theory out? Again it only happens when turning right, almost sounds like the muffler is dragging on the ground (it's not).

oil seperator plate in back...valve cover gaskets....and prev. mentioned items

actually I am....the 2005's got bad ratings on the side crash test

I just replaced my clutch using a exedy kit, and replaced my flywheel with a new oem one. Still chatters and I'm pissed. 1996 2.2L

So, after a couple thousand miles on a brand new clutch kit and flywheel (and cable) I decided to adjust it today. The car would previosuly shudder in first a bit...and during compression braking, although I wasn't going fast enough for the need to rev match. I now have it adjusted so its better although I still get some slight shudder during compresion braking, sometimes. I can completely strat the car from a dead stop on flat ground in first w/o even touching the gas (idles normal @ 700ish), I even got 2nd to go, but it needed just a smidge of gas - In both circumsrtances I was fineesing the clutch. I think I could have gotten second to continue to roll, but too afraid. It did stall in 2nd when I came to a stop w/o putting the clutch in. The clutch catches IMO close to the floor (but i am used to the old feel) and there seems to be noticeable free play at the top in the pedal range (again compared to the old feel). 3rd gear starts are tough but I can get it. I can still get through all the gears fine. I'm I at optimal setting or should I back it up a little??....or just get a new new clutch kit to save the new $350 flywheel??

I wanted to get a recovery strap, but couldn't figure out how you would use it if the car(s) don't have a tow hook on them. As in our case with outbacks, all there are, are tow loops. How would a recovery strap connect?? I haven't got a recovery or tow strap yet because of this

you should stick with genuine subaru wires. I say do more searching. I thought a lot of people like the copper ngks, I use them in my 2.2....I did this after searching, but that was a year ago. I don't remember anything about lasers

Leather sucks. Although, I do believe the leather seats are more comfortable than the others in the first couple gens. Thats pretty fancy with the outback logo in them, must be custom. I don't think outbacks have the logos stiched in....mine doesn't.

non directional is the real way to go with the option of a #5 spare so you don't have to buy a whole set when you get a blow out. kinda wish my snows were ND, but what can u do

I would say triple treads. It doesn't make any sense to me why you would want bfg a/t for your conditions. a lot of people love triple treads, i don't have any experience with them.

run it to a local advance autoparts, they'll read em for free. 215k is ceratainly high, but you should be able to take further, others have.

thanks bud

definately keep the engine/tranny/rear end. Never know if/when you're going to need that stuff. Maybe find a reg. ej20 (if there is one) and swap the ecu and turbo stuff, along with the tranny (prolly different ratios) and the rear end.

If its a complete swap (engine, tranny, ecu, rear end) then all you would have worry about is the dash, halfshaft and driveshaft lengths.

Valeo...awesome, no streaks, no place for ice to build up, easy install http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/valeo/ultimate.jsp ---buy one - get one

I doubt toyota will be any help in the 2 door dept.

I have never looked at the door for psi, on any car. I always go by the tire itself

I paid $520 for my rsi's installed w/ disposal fees. I dont really think that is that bad, just hoping they last at leats 4 seasons. Stupid snow didn't fall for a month after I got em.

Different gear oils can help alleviate the grinding problems. Usually its more of a matter of getting used to the tranny. If I shift fast I'll grind 2nd (in the process of getting a good oil in there). Cold mornings I have to double shift 2nd (currently running some crap dyno oil). Manuals can develop toque bind, which is a very costly repair, but if you found a good condtion used tranny than you could replace the whole thing substantially cheaper. autos cost less to repair and you dont have search for a complete used tranny.