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I never removed the IACV. As far as the intake and fumes see http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8304 No codes. The fuel filter, wires, pcv, seafoam has been done in the past 10k. plugs and airfilter in the past 100 miles. The idle problems started after the silicone.

As far as the flow, shouldn't the air filter and the maf screen help level that out. It also occurs when I take the top half of the air box off (with the filter still attached, of course).

For what I actually sealed:

So here's the deal: My car has developed a fluctuating idle and a sorta stumble at light throttle. The stumble at light throttle has been around for awhile. I thought it was the IACV. I guess it still could be, although I did test the resistance and I did clean it (while still attached to the car, car running). The fluctuating idle developed after I completely sealed the snorkel using GE silicone II. Now, I believe, the fumes from the sealant ruined the front oxygen sensor. I think the O2 sensor was on its way out and the fumes may have pushed it to its limits. No CEL though, and yes the light does work. What do you guys think?

I tested the solenoid side. Got 10.0 and 9.7 on the 2 sides. So, this isn't exactly 9.0, which Haynes recomends. But you're saying 10.0. Could this be causing the problem? Is this a positive test for having to buy a $400 part? I am thinking its a fuel problem or a wire (opposite iacv) problem.

I am testing the female end of the connector. The part where the 3 wires attach to the plastic clip. Shouldn't I just need a new clip or wires??

I am getting no resistance when i test the 2nd and 1st pin on my IACV connecotr. I do get 9 ohms when testing the 2nd and 3rd pin, but none on the 1 and 2 pins. What do I do?? I am getting a fluctuating idle and a rough idle (the reason why I tested it in the first place).

the wheels have a problem with oxidizing at the bead area. Unless they're in good shape, it wouldn't be worth it. Otherwise it seems ike it would be a great idea

I could kepp going and going, so check out subaruoutback.org lots of nice people and cars

and some more....

Yea, I did.

thule, yakima, or subaru .com

they aren't rated to tow cars and I ceratinly wouldn't. They're only rated for like 1,000lbs

I dont have any rattles in my shifter. 123K new clutch and engine seals - You should also expect this as it is very common. the '95s dont have the ground clearance as the 96+

hill holder or not the only outback you can get with a 2.2L is a '96 5spd

electronics would be my guess. I definately recomend replacing seals etc... while the engine is out.

besides the shifting, I had the same problem awhile back. My alternator tension bolt broke and left the alternator belt very lose.

If I HAD to chose two wheels to put them on I would choose the back....just seems to make more sense. I don't know the official rule of chains on awd. Would they add more than a 1/4" in diameter? Maybe air down the 2 tires its going on....

unless its different than an outback bumper the aiming screw should be only for that, aiming. I just took out my fog lights last week and I removed them exactly the way I described. You have to get down and look up at the bumber indentation of the fog hole (2 screws should be there).

DO A SEARCH...haha just playin' Scorpion springs (decrease down travel of the strut which is less than ideal for offroading) http://www.renickmotorsports.com/oscommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=664&products_id=1220 GR-2 http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Outback&autoYear=1998&autoModClar=&brand=all This is prolly what I'll end up doing, simply because its the easiest, cheapest, and most available.

forester struts wont help an obw. The only thing to do would be scorpion springs and gr2 setup.

thats why I said alignment AND BALANCING.

why not use mobil1 gear oil? Isn't that like the slickest oil around

nah, it would be a total wasit of time to take the bumper off. There are 3 screws that hold the fogs in. Once you get down there you'll see how easy they come out. 2 screws on the top side of the front and one bolt in the back bottom.

front bumper is toughish....do a search "driving lights" maybe. A couple people have done it. Wiring it is easy, hardest part is going throught the firewall which is very easy.