Subarian

HUH? What's that got to do with his engine problems?

The EGR light is a scheduled maintenance reminder- it doesn't really have anything to do with whether your EGR is working or not. The reset procedure is pretty easy. There's a connector under the dash to the left of the steering column. There are two connectors, but I don't remember the colors- maybe blue and brown. You disconnect one and connect the other, and it goes away. You can block off the EGR port- your engine will actually run better without it. As far as the head gasket goes, it's not a tough job. If you've done one on a Chevy, you can do one on a Subaru. Just remember you're working with aluminum instead of cast iron, and be a little more careful when you scrape and torque. And I'm at 252,000 and still going strong. That motor will last you a long time. On the other hand, putting in a turbo motor means you have to rewire everything and put in the ECM. It's a lot more work.

There are some machine shops that specialize in repairing these types of heads. I bought a set a few years ago from a company in Alabama, I think. It would have been a lot cheaper to find gen3 heads in a junkyard, though.

The hoses you're talking about are the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) hoses. They take vaporized oil and other gases such as blow-by from the crankcase and introduce them into the intake so they can be burned. The reason you have the brown sludge is that oil and water do mix, contrary to what you've been told, but it doesn't look pretty. You might want to check your PCV valve to make sure the sludge hasn't blocked it. It's at the center of the manifold behind the carb or throttle body. Take it out and shake it. If it rattles, it's fine. If not, you can try cleaning it out with carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner, or just buy a new one. As for the timing belts, I would recommend you not just mark them and install them the way they were. You can find the correct procedure in a Haynes or Chilton's, or you can search the board. I'm sure there are a number of articles here.

I installed a 32/36 DGEV (electric choke) on my EA82 about four years ago. The installation isn't too difficult. The adapter plate I was told was for my engine didn't block off the water passage to the carb, so I had to fabricate that. It wasn't too hard to modify the bellcrank of the Hitachi carb to work with the Weber. Since you're working with a boat, the carb-top air filter that comes with it will work fine for you. Tuning is not really difficult. Instructions come with the carb or are available on a number of websites. The biggest difficulty is figuring out which jets to run, but since the carbs are set up at close to sea level, and since you don't have to pass an emissions test, the stock jets will probably work just fine for you. As for reliability, I've found it to be far more reliable than the stock unit. Good throttle response, reasonable power (we are talking about an EA82, after all) and economy comparable to the original carb. Shop around for a price; I found there was a really wide range of prices when I bought mine.

Hey, don't knock the Jiffy boys. They got me a car really cheap- I gave the previous owner $250 and replaced the engine they had forgotten to put oil in.

How loud do you want it? The glass pack is going to be louder than the muffler.

I guess it depends on what you want to accomplish. If your lifters are sticking, my preference is Marvel Mystery Oil.

I'm not sure what the torque figure would be. I just get 'em goodntight with a 3/8 drive rachet. I haven't used loctite, but I don't suppose it would hurt anything.

If it's just the right and not the left, it's going to be either bulbs or wiring, most likely a ground.

Ignition timing is set with the distributor, but there's got to be a way to advance cam timing as well. Advancing cam timing moves the power band and increases low-end torque. It's a great low-bucks mod for small block chevys, and I've seen it on Nissans and Toyotas, but I've never tried it on a Subaru.

It's a really bad dream. I'm watching it, just to see if anyone actually bids.

Since no one has apparently tried it, I'll let you know how it works. Since it's a non-interference engine, it won't hurt to try, and I might pick up some serious bottom end. Of course, it might not run. I'll let you know.

Are you sure the battery wasn't overfilled? If it was, the hydrogen gas, which is a normal product of battery charging, can't escape properly. I have a WalMart Everstart sealed battery in mine. I like the no-maintenance aspect, and this particular one was taken out of another car and sat on my garage floor for 3 years before I put it in my car and started using it.

Those aren't your timing belts- they're your accessory drive belts. The timing belts are located under the black plastic covers on the front of the engine.

From the website: We are proud make 15"x6" 10 spoke Superlite Wheels available for 4x140mm Subarus, pictured below. But the picture shows 5 lug wheels????

I think I'll replace my timing belts this weekend. I was thinking of going with a 1-notch advance, but I can't remember how many teeth the cam sprockets have. I think it's either 18 or 36. 18 would put it at a 20 degree cam advance- pretty radical. Have any of you tried it?

The EGR light is driven by mileage, not the actual condition of the EGR. It's not difficult to reset. There are two connectors under the dash left of the steering column. I'm going from memory on this, but I think you unplug the green one and plug in the blue one. As far as the cylinders getting gas, there's one common manifold runner going to each side. Even with one barrel operating, the cylinders should be getting roughly equal amounts of fuel.

Looks like some good parts, anyway. Too bad it's on the other side of the country. It always seems like the good ebay deals are.

Just be careful about the heads. The early EA82Ts had a reputation for cracked heads. Someone here on the board can tell you what to look for on the castings.

104,000 miles? What do you plan to do to finish breaking it in? As for the 4wd in the junkyard, let them keep the motor, and take the trans, rear, and driveshaft. There's a good project for you.

Milk crates are great. Nice and steady.

MilesFox is right, but you'll also need to remove the carrier for the pads- two 17mm bolts, if I remember right. I would also check the conical centering washer to make sure it doesn't have a ridge around the edge- I've seen a number of them that do, and it will keep you from getting proper torque. If it does, you can remove it with a file. Also, to make life easier, break loose the castle nut and the four bolts that join the hub to the rotor before you start taking it apart- that way you can use the parking brake to hold it.

I paid about $30 for my new pair of seats at pick-n-pull.

Also realize that seafoam and marvels both are thinner viscocity than your engine oil, so you need to take both into account when determining how much you're diluting your oil. I personally wouldn't go more than 1 quart in a 4-quart engine. If that much doesn't do it, more won't help.