78TurboBrat

very interesting indeed, dont see why it wouldnt work, just would need some fab work to do that to the rods, but better yet, why not come off the front of the block on the inside, and the rear of the block on the inside, and use a steel brake line, bent to a 45 degree angle to follow the wall then come out and point into the cylinder, and squirt oil into the back of the piston, you coul drill into one of three passages on the front and bring the lines down and have them tapped and screwed into the block using some locktight to hold them in. or a locking nut. using a pinching device you could crimp the end of the lines to restrict the flow, but push enough out to do the job, with out sacrificing oil pressure. i have done this to a chevy V-8 running along the bottom of the crank, modifying the oil pump to not havea relief valve. Just some ideas to throw around.

just take the old brat wheels, bolt them on backwards. LOL i have seen it done on other car, and the older brat wheels have a flat surface to bolt them on that way, just looked at a set in my garage.would have plenty of room to do what ever you wanted... i need another one

if it is carbed, autozone or your nearest auto parts house, would have one, it is just a standard 4 - 7 psi fuel pump. sometimes the prices are around 15 to 20 bucks. try that option, if i had one that i knew was good, god would only know where it was in my garage, as things are in boxes and stacked floor to celing. i am fixing to go next weekend to pick up an 83 brat myself, my next project. hhhmmmm what shall it become. ej22t or another ea82t options options decisions decisions. what to do with it. http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo84 is my last project, not finished yet, but itching for another and when the brats come, you have to jump or miss them. would prefer a gen one. anyone wanna trade ?

very true , but if i was to do that i would do it to the rear also so the tracking would be right. you know the width of the tracks. instead of one frone being wider than the other. yeah i will keep it in mind though, thanks and i will save it for the next project.

WOW someone else who lives in Casper, i use to live there when i was a kid and still have relatives there. Anyhow , it seems that the ej22t is my best bet, so what do they come in ? and junkie, if i have my way i will make that 6cyl fit in a brat, but it seemed kind of low on the power output. so i think i would like to stick with the boxer motor like i have now, so i think the ej22t would be a great option, just let me know what cars they come in and i will get started. lol

yeah ok, would love to have that one, but i mean streetable ones, LOL Ok i dont think i would be able to take that through the inspector and get away with it..... :clap:

What is the BIGGEST and BADDEST motor that Subaru makes ? I need to know what type of cars they are in, and what years to look for. I have another brat coming to me, and i want to make a huge toy to play with. so we have 1 Years 2 SIze of motor 3 Turbo ? Twin Turbo ? SuperCharged ? 4 Make and model of the car they are in ??? 5 Is it available in 4wd, 2wd, or AWD I will leave it all to you guys and gals to decide what to pu in this brat, it is a second gen though, so i have more room. :headbang: :headbang:

Well i think that would be too much, i have just got off the phone with a machine shop who said they make the axels, and all i have to do is bring them the ones i have so they can get the spline right for the knuckle to fit on, and they only need three measurements , wheels off the ground, wheeels on the ground with everything in the car, and thirdly the one where the suspension will be collapsed. whitch will be fun trying to collapse it, but then i can just put the brat on the car hauler, and pull the suspension down using the winch. and said only 75 bucks apeice, and if i ever brooke the joints, i just have to replace them from anotehr car or get them rebuilt. no problem here in the DFW area. and the axels would be balanced, so that would eliminate vibebration at high speeds. also have a set of hoosier pro's coming soon too, so maybe that will help with the traction problem. Yeah i have thought about doing something like that before, but i was just thinking it wouildnt see high speeds very often, and that we could just cut them and weld them, but i said wae can wait on it and see what we can find, and of course we found a shop who said no problem. let me get the address of the shop and i will post it for those who might need it too. BTW this pic has me thinking really hard about doing another one, better than this one. let me know of some motors and what they come in so i can get one of these built

Ok i just had a vision, , somebody needs to tell me what this biggest baddest motor subaru makes, and where i can find one, like in what cars. i have an oppurtunity to buy another gen 1 brat pretty cheap, so i want to build one like that one with the huge turbo sticking out of the hood. anybody got any ideas ? let me know email me at shoquest2002@yahoo.com later guys

yeah it still even has the Frisco Coons sticker on the car, which have to come off, the roll bar, and the jump seats were with the car when i got it. that is how preserved this car was.

rear wheel drive only for now, a little too long would be like maybe a 1/2 of an inch, not like 4 inches. trying to find a machine shop to make some new axels. i even tried a 4 wheel drive place here locally who laughed and said good luc, and i shouldnt have tried doing something without doing all the measurements first. like any of us listen to that kind of advice. if it wont fit, i will make it fit and work one way or another.

Well dont tempt me on the 302 powered wagon, i do hav a chevy 350 vortec motor not doing anything. i plan on keeping the car for a long time, dont know much abou the mudding part of the brat, like lifting it and so on, i would rather keep it low and spank the ricers, and make peoples jaws drop when they see that a 1978 brat spanked them and got taken to the cleaners:burnout: well as far as the axels go, that is a whole different ball game. the hubs are the same, so no problem there, but the problem is in the length, and on the tranny, with the 5 speed being wider, and having a different spline , the brat axels wont work. but the wagon brat ones are longer then they need to be so i am going to have the wagon ones cut and put back together, and then i can do 4wd burnouts in front of the mustangs and ricers. and laugh as i pull off in third with the assend slidding around smoke pouring off the tires passing the car i was racing, and waving at them, hitting fourth and getting some more rubber. and oh yeah, a 5 gear chirp, awsome. gotta watch the head on the back glass though, it can be hell.... i do have a clean 87 wagon,, to bad it is front weel drive only would be cool to make a v8 wagon like they do with the volvos but i dontknow what would happen to the suspension on that one. :lol:

http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo84 the above url is to the brat pictures. there are two pages to it. the brake setup was quite simple it just bolted in, and if i remember correctly i had to move one or two holes, cause the older was offset, and the wagon was a sqaure pattern. the transmission is the one from the wagon, a 4wd unit 5 speed

Tom to answer your question i am using the 89 wagons master cylinder, and yes as you can see, it is very tight clearance between the disty and the master cylinder. was going to use a ford probe one which was 1/2 inch shorter but the lines didnt line up the way i needed them to. if you find something that works better, let me know, the booster was also changed. from the wagon to the brat. but still have the old ones, of course the master that came off that car was toast along time ago. good luck....

ok, the sensor on the compressor, is usually for the high pressure kick off, the one you need to find is the one that is located on the tube that is connected to the dryer, a small silver or black coke can looking bottle, usually one line in and one line out, if that sensor goes bad, it will not let the ac kick on, if there isnt enough freon in the system, the compressor will burn up if you run it for very long with the method of jumping the wires, you really need to hook up some gauges, jump the wires, and read the pressures, if that is ok, then replace the sensor, but only jump the senor wires, that will tell you that it is the sensor causing the problem, if it doesnt kick on, then you have other problems, ac relay, ac switch, and so on, cause yeah you can hook twelve volts to the compressor directly and make the system work, but its not wise to do that. if you dont know ac systems, it might be best taking to a freind or shop to help you in that, just remember, you know the system works with the wires crossed, so dont let them talk you into a new compressor, lots of places like to do that. just ask them to do an estimate of the electrical part of the ac system. good luck

ok got back from garland, and have new pics. hope you guys enjoy them... let me know if these are good enough.... :banana: :clap: :banana:

Well i can only say in so many words is that the motor sits on top of the farme, not inside it, that is why you see the motor tilted at a slight angle. when i go to garland later today as in like 15 minutes or so, i will get more pics of it and post them in the album. as for the wiring situation, we wanted to make this happen using nothing but the parts we had from both cars, and the steel we came up with to make it happen, so it was using what we had, and making it strong, and durable. of course now that the motor mounts are made up of other peices, i will take them and make some out of some steel and maybe a hydraulic type mount used on nissans, or as they call them liquid filled. so the car wont have much drivetrain vibration as it has some now. from the almost solid mounts. the wiring was used only cause i saw no purpose in spending money on something i had that i could make work, even if i used the whole harnnes and just hooked up all the lights and so on that way, but thought it would be better to not hurt the brat harness or frame and body to get this done, so that is why it is like a bolt in tied in situation, never know, someone may say i will give you a million dollars for that brat one day if i was to make it back to origional state, and i would just unbolt the motor tranny and rear pumpkin, and drop in the ea71 motor stuff, and hook it all back up and be done with it, noth that i will get that lucky.... but still. i wanted to be able to upgrade later, change, things, modify things, if i had to , and be able to do what i wanted to do. so there it is in a nutshell. oh and my garage isnt empty, i have 2 -302 motors, two SHO motors, 99 350 vortec motor, hoist, engine stand, and a massive MAC Tools Macsimizer II tool box, top bottom, and side boxees, in my one car garage. toolbox stands 6 1/2 feet tall, 14 feet wide, and 3 1/2 feet deep. and full of goodys. backyard has a 95 lincoln geting a SHO motor, 87 Conquest getting a 302 bored .030 over, and some more goodies, and a 95 Pontiac Grand Prix, and a 1965 mustang coupe coming this weekend. going to get the other 302. no use for the 350 yet, how about in a brat. oh yeah someone said suspension, its all brat suspension, and handles well, the only thing on the suspension i used from the wagon, was the hub on one front wheel direct fit, no mods there. the brats was stripped. and CABLEBZ just call me, i will be around this weekend or during the week if you have time, and we can go let you check it out. im sure you wont be dissapointed.... later guys going to get more pics for you, i seem to have found a new drug, and you are all getting addicted to it. LOL

the wiring gave me a headache for three days, i took all of the wiring out of the as i stand corrected by the other owner of the brat, a 89 GL-10 wagon. not 91 AS I THOUGHT PREVIOUSLY. hooked the computer up, and layed it all out on the floor in the shop, started to untape all the wiring and proceded to pull the wiring apart to get only what i needed. got rid of the lights, horn, wipers, windows, and anything else i wasnt going to need.just made sure what i was pulling apart didnt go back to a sensor on the motor or to the computer. when i was finnished i ended up with plenty of spare wire for anything else i wanted to do with for other things, like the panel that shows the doors are open, brake is on, or if it is in 4wd or not. pretty simple to hook up, just had run the wires and hook it all up. then once the wiring was done, i fed it through the hole in the body where the origional brat harness came through, and installed the computerso that it would go behind the glove box, keeping the greeen and brown connectors for timing and codes available. taking those i hooked them to a switch on each, so that i could just flip a switch and get codes, and check the timing. much easier then having to pull the glove box and dash out to gain accsess to them. the 4wd and 2wd are selected by a switch also, using a vacuum pump to change it into either. sounds like alot of switches there huh, well not really only one is visible for the fog lights, one for the 4wd 2wd mode. in a location on the dash that is made for switches using stock switches that go in a subaru. so it doesnt look gawdy or like it has been riged up by just a plain ole joe. alot of thought went into this car, alot of sweat in a shop with no ac in the summer time.i still have to take the harness out for the motor and clean it up some more, and tape it up, and put some fiber sheilding around it and so on, a guy at the local subaru dealer asked me what type of crack i was on when i thought this up, said good luck it cant be done. well i was out just for the fun of it, and to make a hell of a car that i could have fun in and laugh at all the other people who think they have a fast car liek the hondas and toyotas in our area, not to mention the mustangs, dont get me wrong i haved owned many cars, probably over 150 different ones of all makes and models, including my favorite a 85 MR2 supercharged, had to sell it, wasnt married to it. and was offered too much to hold on to it. to me cars come and go, but this brat is for life, it is too much fun to play with. if someone else wanted to build one i would be willing to help them out as much as i can, but im not going to do it for them, they have to get into it just as much as i do. the motor doesnt fit between the frame rails, it sits a little above them, and down enough to close the hood. teh wiring for the brats lights horn and so on are all on the brats harness, and just hooked together behind the alternator. to give power to both the brat and the motor harness. hope this clears up some info for you guys and gals. but i will tell you if you do decide to do something like this get ready for the biggest headache in your life cause you will be constantly but after a few you will begin to see the sunshine and open raods ahead, it took a year fro us to get the car out of the shop just owrking on it during weekends, and the ocasional all nighter. enjoy the feel of the boost, just take plenty of vicodin, that rear window is closer than previously thought. and it doesnt move it hurts.

Ok i know thre is only three of them, but the rest got lost due to a hard drive crash, and so all i had is what was left on a floppy, so this is what you get for now, i will be in garland later today around 2, so when i back keep an eye out for more on page 3 of the USMB photo album. album name 78 Turbo Brat. :clap: :banana: :clap:

For those of you wondering, the car was built, it wasnt really a swap. like most would think of a swap. this was more like a pulling, fighting, welding , cutting,cussing match with the car to get the EA82T motor ,tranny, and rear end in the car. although the car remains stock in its frame and body. the car has three wiring harnesses, three fuse boxes, and of course the computer and turbo. looking to find a top mount IC for the turbo, but that will be after the car is dissasembled and get the body work and paint done. remind you that this car was found sitting in a feild , the only thing we knew about the car was that the owner was doing a tune up on it after he had bought the car, and never got to complete it, he passed away 17 years ago. he had owned the car for about 2 to 3 years. so that means it was at least sitting for the last 19 to 20 years. The car was given to us by the guys daughter with the title, and keys. wow . ok of course getting it out from behind that barn was another story, Dodge truck wouldnt pull it out. took a farm tractor to get it to move. and a wench to get it on the hauler . then taken to my local shop where i worked on my project cars. other types of crazy builds for instance a 1987 Chrysler Conquest with a 302. but was to be origionally a Ford taurus SHO motor in it, but i sold the car and now he is going to put a 302 in it. Anyways back to the brat, i will get some pics of it tomorrow, and will let all of you see them. just remember the car does need its body work, and paint done, and the interior done, but it is drivable as it is. just doesnt appeal very well. rust isnt an object with the car, and not really any dents except for the front spoiler pan, and the left bottom of the passenger fender. will be replaced. For those of you in here wanting to talk to me abou the car, just call me at 214-387-0337 and i wll usually be here working on one car or another as i have a 1971 Firebird getting ready to go on the road tomorrow. or you can email me at shoquest2002@yahoo.com thanks again for the great board and hopefully we can all learn something from one another. later guys and gals....

I am new to this board, and am looking for other people who are interested in the subarus as i am. I own a 1978 Subaru Brat that i a freind and i have built, it is a combination of two subarus, to make one hell of a brat. the car looks stock, seems stock, until you hit the gas, hit your head on the glass behind you and all you can do is look behind you and laugh at the mustangs or ricers trying to keep up. We took a 1991 Subaru GL-10 Wagon, 4x4 turbo motor, tranny, rear end , electronics, and of course the turbo. and strategically placed them in the brat, after a 3 day fight with the wiring from the wagon i got it down to just the motor and computer wiring and it all checked out and now the beast is running and tearing up the pavement. If you are interested in this car, or a project like this, i will say cutting torch and welders are a must. and the know how ow willingness to learn as you go is a must. I just took pictures of the brat as of two days ago. You can email me and i will send you some pictures. and yes the stock spare tire still fits under the hood. Well sorry for the long post, but i will tell you this is alot shorter then the year it took to build the beast. thanks John Cabot Shoquest2002@yahoo.com